The Hodaka Club Forum

Evening all, I can't find my manual, we just moved and I need some quick help.

Clutch nut- shouldered side in or out?

Clutch cupped washer- cup out or in?

I remembered it was LH thread at least and if I recall torque is 250 in/lbs.

Thanks.
Bev

If you are referring to the clutch thrust washer (PN 944016) rounded face goes next to the main bearing. Open end of pinion bushing against thrust washer. If its the clutch lock washer (PN 944013), then it goes convex side out. Clutch nut I'm not sure. I've always reassembled mine as found - shouldered side out. Torque 250 in/lbs is correct.

Matt,

I think a DPO got you. Clutch nut should go on with shouldered side toward the engine center-line. Though your own success with Hodies tends to confirm that shoulder in or shoulder out will work just fine.

Ed

Good to know Captain. Thank you. Interestingly, that detail is not included in the official Wombat Workshop Manual (that I could find anyway), and its hard to discern on the exploded parts diagrams. There must be some mechanical advantage to a convex-to-convex fitment. DPO strikes again! Agreed - no blood/no foul on the inversion. I still want to be precise though. After work, there will be a massive nut inverting ceremony. Hmm...

PS - Were you involved in the Donkey Basketball? I gotsta know.

Thanks Gents! When I pulled it apart I forgot to take pictures, something I commonly do since my phone is always with me. Hopefully, I'll find that dang manual soon and I don't even remember which box I put it in

On a related note, my clutch was a bear to get off this time. Other times it's been a breeze but this time it put up a fight, come to think of it getting it back on was a bit tough too. Both required some rubber mallet tapping. Once off I cleaned the teeth with a small brush to remove debries and the teeth, on the crank and in the clutch piece looked ok too.

Any idea what might cause that?

Thanks.
Bev

I'd say a comprehensive inspection of the whole works and a thorough cleaning. Was this clutch removal for a rebuild or for routine inspection. Also, were there any clutch-related symptoms prior to removal. If so, a cause for the difficult disassembly/reassembly may be suggested.

I had to change out the clutch bushing and ream the gear again, when I reamed out the gear (that fits over the bush) previously I must have missed some high spots. I was getting the telltale whirling/whine sound when I pulled in the clutch. Other than that everything was working fine. Its actually become my daily driver, for my 4 mile commute to work. There's no better way to arrive at work with a smile on your face.

I never ream the gear only replace the bushing, when the bushing is galled it will erode the other surface.---Clarence