The Hodaka Club Forum

OK. Is there anyone out there who can tell me how these switches assemble? I have one switch missing a contact point and a tiny ball bearing and another which is complete which exploded apart on me when I tried opening the good one up to see what was missing! Help! I now know what size ball bearing I need and I have seen the little brass contact point with the loop on the end which looks like a small 2 loop Spring, but it came apart so fast I couldn't hold it together to see how it sits inside the switch. These are hard to find and I would at least like to get one back together, possibly both if I can find or make the contact point. HELP!!!!! Victor

Does this look correct? And the small ball bearing would go on the end of the spring to the right in the picture? Victor

OK. I don't think the brass contact point (or whatever it's called) is in the correct position, but I can't seem to figure it out. I'd love to see a picture or diagram if anyone can put their hands on one.

Also, if anyone had a switch they can part with?
Anyone? Bueller? Anyone??? Victor

The problem here will be that very few folks have ever taken their switches apart, much less taken photos when they did. I have disassembled several such switches and frankly can't advise on what goes where, simply because I didn't take it apart. Having them jump apart before you can get a good look is the risk you take when disassembling these parts. I don't think there is a diagram, I have never seen one, because they aren't considered user serviceable.

Meh! And a new one is $397 and a crappy used one on FleaBay is $50 plus shipping! Hoping Bruce has one!

I've pulled apart the light/turn signal switch. That one was easier! Hopefully I'll figure it out and post pics & maybe do a Resonator How To on it!

Right now, I believe the contact point is in the wrong position because the switch doesn't fit together correctly. There's only a few ways it can go, so I'm pretty sure I'll figure it out. Ant be too difficult. And I've done other switches on other bikes. Just this style is new to me. Was hoping someone else here had been through this and had recall experience! ; D Victor

I've never taken a Hodie main switch apart. Hydraulic Jack pretty much nailed the situation.

Capt. Ed. It would be nice to know who manufactured them to look up if they have an exploded view on it. Any idea who was sourced for the switch? Victor

Unless you are doing a concours d'elegance bike there is no need for an OEM killswitch.

On my bike I use an aftermarket switch of known quality. And there are many available from mail order suppliers as well as the local Cycle Gear.

Though you're remarks are true, I don't like giving up the challenge. I have a complete switch. I WILL make it work! I don't like losing to an inanimate object. Besides, once I figure it out, I can do pics of the pieces inside & do a write up for "The Resonator Revisited!" Victor

OK. I gave up on it! It just wasn't worth the effort and I ordered 2 inexpensive kill switches. Just couldn't figure the one brass piece out. Then the small Spring connected to it flew off and I think it fell to the bottom of a big parts box, but couldn't find it. Oh well. Sure beats paying $50 plus shipping for one faded switch which I don't even know works on eBay! Victor

Vic, nopen I don't have any info on the source(s?) of the switches.

I'm in the "Killed kill switch situation now. I took mine apart but not sure how it works ?
When it is in the run position does it complete a loop ?

Or does it ground the ignition when it is turned to off ?

Yes. Run completes the circuit. Off breaks the circuit. I gave up on mine & added a couple of simple push On/Off switches I purchased on eBay. Left the old ones there just for looks. Really wanted to fix them but they tend to blow apart when you undo them. And it’s one of the few items you can’t do a Before photo for a guide. Victor

Somer,
Your second guess is correct. The kill switch grounds the ignition so it "completes the loop" to kill the engine.