The Hodaka Club Forum

Hi All,
I am new on here, and I need a little help with a 76 Road Toad. This one has no electrical equipment other than an ignition coil (no main switch, wiring harness, battery etc). Should I get a spark with just the blue and black wires connected to the coil? It has new points and condenser, still no spark. There is nothing to connect to the 4 pin connector. I don't care about lights etc right now, just trying to confirm it has spark.

John

The 4 pin connector goes to an ignition switch. The bike should start with just the BU BK wires connected to the coil since the ignition switch isn't connected.

Make sure there's no breaks in the blue & black wires & meter across the blue & black wire for indications of a break while kicking it over. Put a spark plug on the coil wire to inspect for spark. Also check the plug wire at the coil end for good connection if you're not getting spark.

Also make sure that the condenser didn't get cooked soldering it in place or that it isn't cold soldered as well. Don't ask me how I know this one! Victor

Victor,
Thanks, I do get a break in continuity when the points open, so that circuit is good. I will check the other items today, how to check the condenser? It may be cooked, but I am pretty good at soldering and didn't apply excess heat.

The condenser either works or it doesn't. Probably the last thing to consider given your soldering skills, but sometimes other folks heat it up too much and it dies. Victor

Are you running with a kill button? If so, take it out of the loop. Also, as Victor said, make sure there are no short circuits due to wire insulation being abraded off somewhere. Also, make sure your spark plug fires on a functional bike or change it for a known good one.

IF you actually get a "break in continuity" when the points open, then something is wrong . . . ASSUMING that you are clipped on to the blue and the black wire coming out of the magneto area. What you should see (IF you are clipped on to the blue and the black wire) is an increase in resistance - but you should NOT see an "open" circuit. IF you are clipped on to the blue and black wires, there is a primary alternate route for elecjuicity to travel when the points open - through the ignition exciter coil (and this route SHOULD be used by the elecjuicity). So if you actually have an "open" circuit when the points open . . . you may have a "dead" (open circuit/broken winding wire) coil or a bad solder joint on the top of the condenser . . . or something else. The exciter coil resistance should be 2.0 to 2.5 ohms - requires removal of the coil mount screws and lifting the coil free from the stator to test.
Ed

Thanks for the help guys, got it running. The timing of the points was not correct, now I have to take the clutch unstuck. This toad has been sitting for a long time.

Pull the clutch off (left handed nut holds it on) and soak the clutch plates in some kerosene s & then soak in some good gear oil over night. Then clean, reassemble & give it a go. ; D Victor

If the clutch plates have bonded together with the clutch disks, things are not going to work. The clutch plates must be smooth. ------------ Clarence