The Hodaka Club Forum

Hi all,
So I picked up a Road Toad from my friend who moved away and couldn't take it with him. He had the crank rebuilt a couple years ago, and it was running when parked up sometime a little over a year ago I think. I took the carb apart, cleaned out the nasty old gas/wax etc out of it and cleaned the tank out.
I got it to start and run for about 45 seconds, but it bogged down immediately upon cracking the throttle. The rubber boot on the intake from the air cleaner is torn a bit, but it should run. I've not since been able to get it to run even from bump starting. The plug consistently comes out soaking wet. I have the air screw turned out about 1-3/4 turns, the needle is in the second notch from top. Running 40:1 premix. I have spark. Checked timing, seems okay but it's difficult to check with that flywheel covering it up.
I'd like any guidance anyone might have to offer, I'm really looking forward to taking this bike off into the woods around here. Plenty of trails etc.
I think I need help nailing the timing down to be absolutely sure. I read the timing thread and it's not that clear to me. I checked it w/ a dial indicator and feeler gauges because I couldn't for the life of me get the light to work. My timing light must not see the signal in the spark plug wire or it's broken, maybe.

Does the plug still throw a good spark? A couple of new plugs wouldn't hurt. Also clean the points, again wouldn't hurt. Personally I'd turn the screw 1/2 turn, so it' s 1 1/4 turns out. Also is the float level correct?

Replace the plug. If it's wet, it's fouled.the spark will not be consistent.

Also, pull out your pilot jet & clean it thoroughly. Bike won't idle with a clogged up pilot jet. And second notch? From the top or bottom of the needle? If top, you may be leaning it out just enough that it's not getting quite enough fuel. Toads like 3rd or 4th from the top.

Let us know what happens.

Neptune states the spark plug consistently comes out soaking wet, that would indicate it is flooded. A soaking wet plug is not going to fire. I would keep the gas turned off, pull the plug and kick it over five times or so, with the throttle open. put in a dry plug and kick it a few times, pull the plug and see if it is dry yet. The gas is off this whole time. You can dry off a wet plug by giving the tip of the plug a quick spray of ether and then a quick shake. When the plug comes out dry, leave the gas off and try and start the engine.--------Clarence

Thanks, gents. All good ideas to try, for sure. I've not done anything since I walked away from it last night and landed here. A little more info: The points look to be new; since my friend bought the bike he had the cases apart to repair the crank, so I'm sure the crank seals are new. The points look new, there's a repair to the condenser (looks like).
The notch is in the second from top position (lean). That's how it was when I found it, and it used to run so I'm okay with leaving it there for now. But if it won't even idle I'm not that concerned with needle position yet.
The float level... I used to have an RD350 and these carbs are more or less the same thing but I can't remember having to adjust the float level short of bending that one tab on the float lever.
I also noticed that the pointed thing that acts as a valve in the pilot jet (?) doesn't have a viton tip. This seems odd to me. Should it or does that even matter?
Is there a known cutaway height for the slide at idle? Could be idle adjustment screw is in/out too far?

I have an update! Put in a clean plug, fired up on the first kick w/ the petcock shut off. NEW PROBLEM, however. It will start and run, and then it REALLY wants to run. Like 6 or 7,000 rpm run. Is this a crank seal problem or some other leak?

After it starts, do you reopen the petcock? If so, make sure the slide is closing all the way.

Does the throttle slide bottom out with a clunk when you let go of the twist grip? I'm searching for information to support the idea that nothing is holding the throttle open - sticky twist grip, crusty cable etc.

. . . and yes, run-away idle is a symptom of a significant air leak - so be cautious - but let's make sure the "mechanical issues" relating to throttle operation are all in order. It appears that you may be nearing the time to get the manual and to read up on pressure testing the engine.

Ed

After it starts I haven't opened the petcock. The revs climb too rapidly for me to consider giving it more fuel. The slide will bottom out with a clunk if the engine isn't running. I found that if I blip the throttle the rpms rise and don't really come back down. The throttle cable had been seized but I've been able to limber it up. So it's crusty, yeah.
I have a manual but I don't believe it covers pressure testing. There might be a leak at the exhaust gasket, I've noticed oil dripping out of it.

Oil leak on the exhaust side is excessive fuel from being flooded. wouldn't cause an rpm problem. High rpm usually happens when the bike is running short on fuel, turn the petcock back on long enough to refill the float bowl and try again. make sure the intake bolt/nuts are all tight, if it still does it, then time for the pressure test.

Whew, that's good news. Will give it a shot later today. Thanks a bunch!

Okay, I got it to run reliably, though at a fast idle. Turning the idle screw out all the way so the slide is down fully has no effect, but opening the petcock made it tolerable. Revs high when I blip the throttle or turn the handlebars. Choke will shut it down, so I know that works. I use that to slow it down. Since it idled, though high, I thought I'd take it for a spin around the yard and it bogs down and dies when under any sort of load. Goes downhill great though, lol...
Did notice fuel pouring out the bottom of the carb, though. Thinking I need a float height adjustment.

I would say needle and seat. ---------- Clarence

You state that it revs when you turn the handle bars? That tells me that your throttle cable is too tight and is binding when you turn the bars. Check your routing of the cable. Also, do you have any slack in the cable when your throttle is at rest. You should be able to feel a "small" amount of slack just as you start to turn the grip. So check the routing and adjust for some slack in the cable. This might address the high revs but it appears that there are other carb issues too.

Should the pilot needle have a Viton tip? This one is just polished metal.

The needle is only metal and must be in good condition to seal into the seat. Obviously the seat must also be in good condition.

I use the viton tip. ------------Clarence

Pull your gas tank and make sure the cable isn't binding under it anywhere. This could cause your cable to not return quickly enough. Just a guess but worth a quick look! ; D Victor

taber hodaka wrote:I use the viton tip. ------------Clarence

Clarence,
Tell me more about a viton tipped float valve. Is it after market and where do you source them? I have never seen one on a Mikuni carburetor...
Dale