The Hodaka Club Forum

Hey guys,
I am currently having my wombat worked on at shop by my grandpas friend. He knows motorcycles well, but not hodakas. I took it to him to get it looked over and running better. The problems I had was that it wouldn't idle correctly, flooded out, and skipped gears. Alot of the terminology is beyond me, but this is what he said he needs in parts (I told him I would get the parts); 4e1 needle and a 231 n-8 nozzle. He also noted the counter sprocket was missing 2 teeth so he is going to replace that too. Luckily I found all these things on strickly hodaka (yay!!!!!) But I want to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff. Are the 14 tooth counter sprockets standard for all the hodakas or which one should get? I found a n-8 nozzle but not one that says 231. Will that work?
He also asked if I could find out what the float should be set at? To be honest I have no clue what that means.

Thank you for any suggestions and help. This wombat was my poppops (Harlan junie diem) and I really want it to get it running great.

The 231 identifies the type of main nozzle which will work in that carb body. If you found the N-8 in poppops' stuff, it is probably the right one.

Show your mechanic the photo below and he'll know what to do.


Yeah, a 14T countershaft sprocket is pretty standard. You could get something different if you wanted . . . say a 13 for trail riding only . . . or a 15 if all your riding is going to be on the street.
Ed
PS: Your mechanic guy may need some assistance to get the shifter working properly. The Hodaka shifter system is NOTHING like the other machines he likely has experience with. There are no shifter forks or dogs, etc. We stand ready to help. Do you have the owner's manual with illustrated parts list for him to look at? He may need it to make sense of the way the shifter system works. (It is different, but not difficult.)

I appreciate your feedback. I just spoke with the mechanic. I misunderstood him. He stated that those are the current parts in it. He stated it's running really rich and he tried to make it leaner but it can't be adjusted down more. He is asking if those are the parts that should be in the wombat or are there recommended better ones that can he get so it doesn't run so rich?

Yes, those are correct items. Float level could be too high. Float valve could be leaking. A prime suspect is the little O-ring on the end of the needle jet - remove the float bowl to see it. If that O-ring is leaking, fuel can get around it to go to the engine (non-metered extra fuel). Starter circuit plunger could be leaking ("choke" system). Does changing the adjustment of the pilot air screw change anything. Factory setting is about 1.5 turns "out" from closed. If changing the air screw setting does not change anything, the pilot air system is clogged - full carb cleaning is needed.

When he says "running really rich" does that mean at idle (closed throttle)? Or is it rich at some other throttle setting. Knowing the throttle setting is critical. 0, 1/8th, 1/4, 3/8ths, etc.
Ed
PS: On thinking about it more . . . here are the FIRST two things I'd check: 1) clogged exhaust system (time for a campfire burn-out?) 2) hard/cracked O-ring on the needle jet.

What Ed said...

I am assuming a chrome tank Wombat here. Is that correct? If so, it might have the early "Type A" carburetor that was a problem. The carb type can be identified by looking through the carburetor throat and seeing if the shroud of the needle jet (Nozzle) protrudes up into the venturi area. The type "A" carb did not while the preferred type "B" did.

Another possibility is that the Nozzle could be severely worn and oval shaped. This can be seen under a light and magnifying glass.

Amd from what I've learned, the suggested/factory jetting-- both main and pilot jets-- mau be different for your engine. And the air screw adjustment is very sensitive and critical for how the engine runs at low throttle openings.