The Hodaka Club Forum

If anyone is contemplating using early 70's Suzuki TS 250 mag coils in their 250SL, here is what I found. As for the TS250 ignition mag coil, the timing will be advanced a lot if you use the factory stator/case marks. I had to move the stator completely counter clockwise to bring the timing close to the factory specs. I went and elongated the three stator slots about 5mm more to give me more adjustment room and am now timed with the factory specs. I am still using the Hodaka CDI unit and coil. As for the lighting coils, they are working well even with doing a 6 volt to 12 volt conversion.

Mike Perrett

That's good to know. I've filed this away because no doubt I'll be going down this road sometime...

. . . with a bit of salt, pepper, flour and some hot pepper spiced olive oil, whatever that is should fry up to be quite tasty.

Oooooh, that is one UGLY flywheel!
Ed
PS: Mike - "even with doing a 6 volt to 12 volt conversion" -- does that phrase mean you simply installed 12V bulbs and perhaps a 12V solid state voltage regulator (and mayhaps a 12V batter too)?

mike do you have any pictures?

Ed, This conversion was just like the one I did on my 175. The article is in a past issue of the Resonator Revisited, with the exception of the battery, I used a Motobatt MB2.5U (replaces a YB2.5). It will fit into the Hodaka battery boot, except it protrudes about 1/4" out from the end of the case, I used longer bolts and just snug the cover up to the battery.
Scott, what photo's of the different components are you referring to?


Mike Perrett

JUST PICTURES OF THE COILS AFTER YOU WERE DONE IF YOU HAVE ANY

Scott, they look identical to the Hodaka coils.

OK THANKS WHAT YEAR TS DID YOU USE 1974?

dirtsquirt80,

Why are you yelling?

Ed

I believe 1969-70 had points, I used somewhere in the early 70's, anywhere between 1972 and 1975, could be even later. Look on e-bay and see If they look like the Hodie mag coils, that is what I did.

Is the wire color coding and harness connector the same? Thanks.

i looked on ebay it doesnt look like the wire code is the same
Ed im sorry i was a work and they keep the cap lock on for their book keeping lol

No, it is not, I soldered the Hodie wiring harness on right at the Suzuki coils.

Mike Perrett

you need to take pictures along the way mike lol I like pictures lol

mike is there 2 coils or 3? on the stator

Three, one for the ignition, two for the lighting and battery charge.

Hello out there; Lighting and Ign. Coils watch out; Please note; All coils are not what they appear from the outside, discounting mounting, coils are wound with a certain size copper wire and length, any changes in those will change amount of flow of electricity thru the system. could effect operation and etc. Be careful. This info came from a long time coil rewinding, motor company representive. Whom has been doing rewinding of coils for over 40 years. Every thing beside looks, mounting and etc, must be the same. I am note discounting that you have found the TS coils to work just fine, but it was luck. That the wire and its length and size where the same. I want to thank you if you have. There are a lot of Hodaka riders whom need to know this important type of info, what will sub for orginal NOS Hodaka parts. Thanks again, I do not want to start a fire storm but just be careful. Bruce Young




co

mike is a pretty smart guy I'm sure he wouldnt put something up here if it wouldnt work or if it was going to hurt someones bike. I trust Mike with anything Hodaka!!! plus he lives at the super secret Hodaka research center!

OK, here is the rest of the story. After jetting the 250SL, the bike was still underpowered. Sterling Caudill found out from Klemm Vintage that the ideal timing for a 2 cycle was 27 degrees BTDC. I adjusted mine for 25 BTDC at full throttle and it really came alive. Idle timing is now 15 degrees BTDC. Again, I am using the stock Hodaka CDI box. Remember that I am using a Suzuki TM 250 cylinder head. I believe that Hodaka had the their timing retarded due to the poorly designed cylinder head. If anyone is interested in the jetting, using a different pipe and carb, I can post that.
Mike Perrett

Hello, Mike Thank you for the additional details, but please, when releasing info ,concerning use of other brand items on a Hodaka, give the complete details, when we give out info in bits and pieces, the general Hodaka world reading the info may try something, and get into trouble right away. This is what I was trying to do when talking about winds and size of wire used on Ign. coils, I know you know how to make the change, but when giving out info, give it all in detail and if possible with pictures of what was done, so when the Hodaka world out there picks it up, they we be lead in the right direction from the beginning. You and the group you work with are well aware that there a newbies out there that might try this and go in the wrong direction and be disappointed. Please keep us informed on anything you have found when it comes to products from other brands that work on the Hodaka. Keep up the great work and information, Bruce Young

thank's for the info mike!!!!!!! what would be interesting to know is how much cooler does the bike run with the suzuki head verus the stock hodaka head?

Mike,
Your using a Suzuki TS250 head? Everything I find shows that is a 6 bolt head and my ED is 8 bolt. What year and model are you using. Thanks
Ralph

Mike Has modified it to fit some real nice work!

I used an early 70's TM 250 head. One has to tap the existing holes and locktite aluminum bolts in it, machine off the ends, temporarily install a template of the Hodaka bolt pattern, drill the head CAREFULLY, positioned upside down on a stand, then rightside up on a stand to CAREFULLY mill the fins down in line with the new holes, to the base head material. Then position the head on the assembled engine torque it down and measure the squish clearance, then mill the head down to achieve the proper squish while taking into account the special head gasket thickness. The main head bolts/nuts have to have socket head screws installed in them due to clearance problems. That is all there is to it!!!!!!!
I get real nervous drilling the fins at an angle, need a sharp bit and an end mill and a lot of patience.

Mike,

Did you take any photos during this process? Would make a great RR article.