Bushing the Shift Shaft

[Bill2001]

I've got a bit of wear in the foot change shaft ("shifter shaft") bore in the magneto case. The shop manual mentions "bushing 942003". Should this be available as a Hodie part from our Hodaka suppliers or could we be able to source the 14x16x xxx mm bronze bushings from anywhere? If they are an obscure part, where to get them?

I've got the shifter apart for cleaning and inspection and I'm running it by my Local Auto Machine Shop today to see if he has time/tooling/interest in this near-future project. To save him time and trouble I'm wanting to get all the parts needed so he doesn't have to call around and then wait. If he can't get to this job, I'm guessing that I can send the cover off to our "listed Hodaka Gurus".

--Bill

[Dale]

I believe that the bushings are still available. I personally would recommend one of the listed Hodaka rebuilders. Ronald Liddle is my guy for shift cover restorations. He custom fits a bushing after turning the shaft to true it up to give a very tight tolerance.
Dale

[Bill2001]

Good points-- it may be better to send it off for a complete makeover since that 45 year-old assembly is critical for the transmission shiftability. I've got some play in the "shifter guide arm" and I was planning to replace that with new, but if that part can be refurbed...

--Bill

[dirty_rat]

You definitely want someone who knows what they are doing to ream out the cases for the shift shaft bushing. If not done properly, the rest of the shifter parts will not align properly and you will never be able to get the shifter to work properly. The bushings are still readily available.
But, if you are going to rebuild the cases and you need the cases reamed out for the bushing, I would just have who ever is doing this rebuild the cases for you. They will have all the parts needed and know exactly what needs to be replaced and how it needs to be adjusted.
I just sent out two cases to California Hodaka and they did a great job rebuilding them, at a very reasonable price. There are a few different people/shops listed on the Strictly Hodaka site that do this procedure and I'm sure all of their work is of the same high standard.
As a side note, most of the later shifter cases came from the factory with the bushings already installed, so check you case to make sure it doesn't already have the bushings installed. If that is the case, just order new bushings and replace the old ones. But, if it were me, I would still send it out to be re-built, as they will check the entire case and replace anything that needs to be replaced and then adjust the case properly.

[Bill2001]

My machine shop is a local motorcycle shop run by someone whom I call "The Wizard". Best machinist I've ever met. But you are right-- this needs to be done by someone who has already figured out all the tricks.

This Mag case is a time-worn original. What I have done, since my check and double-check of this Resto bike have come in well under budget, is to order a spare Mag case from SH since they are rare and becoming rarer. I can have the old case refurbed at my leisure. This way if/when I ever get a pre-Wombat Hodie 5-speed and it has the reversed shift pattern I can upgrade that on the spot. Or if times get really really lean, i can sell the collectable Hodakie cover in eBay for several thousand.

--Bill

[Bill2001]

The pressed-in steel tube that holds the cam/ratchet plunger (#35 on the ref'd drawing) is a bit loose. Although it is held in with a roll pin. it can move in and out, and it rotates slightly. How firm does that tube need to be? I could remove the old roll pin and drill and put in an oversize pin, or I could clean all the oil & grease from around the tube and loctite and stake the tube in.

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/Parts-List-A-s/2109.htm

--Bill

[Bullfrog]

I think your concept of Loctite and lightly staking is good. No need for drilling and oversize roll pin. The tube should be pretty stable once you are done. (Don't let the staking operation change the "aim" of the direction of the tube.)

Ed

[Bill2001]

And since there is a "flat" side of the ratchet plunger and a corresponding flat in the tube, presumably so that the plunger lines up with the ratchet, make sure that to tube is rotated so that everything lines up. And since there is probably much grease between the tube and the Mag cover, use spray brake or carb cleaner to clean that up, else the Loctite won't adhere. When staking, stake in steps and do opposite sides ti keep things even.

Or at least, that's how I'd do it. The oversize roll pin is prolly overkill...

--Bill

[Bill2001]

Got the rebuilt magneto cover/shifter yesterday and will install it this afternoon. A couple of questions, though:

There is a "foot change inside cover gasket", Part#38 on the attached parts fiche, that (on my old cover) fits inside the cover plate ahead of the output sprocket. I can't figure out where it really goes or what is is supposed to accomplish or if it is really necessary. Best I can guess is it keeps splash from the chain out of the alternator chamber. Don't got one, wonder if I can substitute available foam rubber?

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/Parts-List-A-s/2109.htm

The shift mechanism is lubed with (apparently) a moly grease, I wonder if I oughtn't give it a few pumps of BelRay waterproof grease?

I guess the shifter comes pretty much pre-adjusted, but I'm going to try to resist the urge to tinker with it...

--Bill

[dirty_rat]

Bill, Part #38 is a foam gasket meant to help keep mud and dirt out of the shifter case. It fits along the back of the case, between the case and inner cover. You can either get a new one (if even available) or make one with some door seal foam from a Home Depot type of store. Just make sure it's not too thick. You could also use a silicone sealer (and just re-do it anytime you have to remove the inner cover).

[Bill2001]

That makes good sense-- my original foam seal was in the wrong place and pics in the shop manuals didn't show it.

--Bill

[---]

For some reason I thought the original gasket was cork, but it seals between the metal gasket and the cover at the shifter area. Set the metal shield in place and you should see a gap. That's where the gasket goes, and that's why it is something like an eighth inch thick.

I try not to mix grease. Some folks pack the shifter area with grease. I don't and never have. If you don't intend to do cross country races and deep water, I would leave it for now. It's easier to clean and regrease if it isn't packed with goo. It isn't waterproof and doesn't need to be. It just needs to keep crap out of the cavity.

I would not assume the shifter is calibrated, necessarily, but would start with it as it is. It is adjustable for the reason that no two bikes are previsely alike. If they were, the part would not be adjustable. Start with the working assumption that it is okay as it is, but be ready to adjust as needed to get the shifts right.