The Hodaka Club Forum

Hello, I have a pretty badly rusted tank. You can't see any silver in the inside. Before I buy a tank liner what methods have worked for you removing rust and what product do you recommend for a liner. So many methods and products out there. Also the tank cap will not screw on looks like the beginning thread is marred. Thinking a small file to clean it up will work??
Thanks!

Rusty, I used a sealer by Caswell. They recommended using sheet rock screws and shaking. Their product adhears to rust.You might check their website. I was totally satisfied with the product and I'm sure there are other good ones out there.

Just my opinion of course.

Max

POR 15 Motorcycle tank system is # 1 bar NONE I have used them all~! http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Motorcycle- ... p_106.html

Uh oh the debate starts!!! I'll have to do some reading I guess. I have heard good things about the Caswell.

Rusty. Get a bottle of Evaporust. It is a chelate that removes rust, and it works. It isn't fast. In a tank it will probably take several days and will need sloshing around periodically. Greg has been using it on Yamaha parts and it works very well.

After it is cleaned out, you can use a tank sealant if you want/need to. I would not just put sealer over deep rust. And if you use sealant, keep moving the tank, rolling, flipping as indicated in the directions. Otherwise the coating can settle to the bottom of the tank if you stop too soon. This will mean you won't have a good, even coating & the settled coating will significantly reduce your fuel capacity. I have a Road Toad tank to which someone did that. They even got it on the outside of the tank. Now I'm going to have to strip the inside & outside of the tank and then re-coat it properly. But it's still cheaper than buying a used tank separately.

You can leave your petcock on and keep it closed, but remove the filter screen from the tube so it doesn't clog the screen, and then put the gas cap on. No dry wall screws needed. The Evaporust will convert the iron oxide back to iron and it will stay on the tank inner wall. Leave the tank upside down for half the time so you get the top of the tank too! Better to slowly convert it back to metal from rust. Then use the tank sealant if determined to be necessary. ; D Victor

Thanks, I've used evaporust years ago restoring an 80's bmx bike. I do remember it working pretty well. Thanks!!! Going to put some time in tomorrow on the bike. Rain though so might have to wait on pics.

You can take a photo with your iPhone and post! Just remember to shoot square and the phone vertical or I'm the only one who will see it right side up! LOL!!! ; D Victor

I used white vinegar -- plus a week or two to let it work -- to de-rust the last tank slowly but effectively.
The tank before I used reverse electrolysis by hooking up the tank to a battery charger to drive the rust off out. It worked, but I then I found out that the process creates hydrogen gas so I don't recommend it.

As for sealants I think that POR15 works good on rusty tanks that are otherwise intact. If the tank has any perforations, seepy seams, or repair work performed then the thicker and heavier then Caswell formulation is more appropriate.

I forgot to mention this: to level off a rusty filler neck I used a large sharpening stone to file the opening down to a uniform flat surface. Initially, the rust had created a pretty jagged rim on around the opening.

I think there`s a small possibility that this hand-filing technique could create a spark, but may be fill the tank with water first to be on the safe side.

I've had good success with Evaporust, but in two instances had to follow that up with a sealer. In both instances I used a product called Red-Kote. It's relatively easy to work with, and seems to work extremely well. Here's the tech sheet/instructions: http://damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf