Combat Wombat what to do?
Posted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 5:14 am
ASR - 11/13/07 at 8:08am
Recently I bought a bike I had in my youth, from 30 years ago.
I few things that came to my attention.
1) The bike is smaller than i remember -I think I grew (LOL)
2)The front brake has very little stopping power- I know why those down hills 30 years ago scared me.
3) It still fouls plugs like i remember.
I'm debating on what to do with it know?
The bike is complete ,just needs a little cosmetic referb
Should I keep it all orignal-And ride it a few times ayear (show and tell)
Or should I make it better than it was
and compete in events like (the ISDT sounds like fun)
or
Should I put on a CDI , how can I make the brake work better, etc. etc. ???
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SocalHodaka - 11/13/07 at 10:03am
You can keep it stock with just a few modifications that are easy to reverse to put back to stock. The forks are one that most swap out with 03 Wombat or ED 250 forks, these are getting harder to find so I'm sure some people are starting to resource other brands to use. The front brake from the Road Toad is also the hub a lot are using for better stopping power. I have a CDI on my CW and works good for MX. The PVL CDI ignition has adjustable weights you can change for different riding conditions.
Look for more info here and also the Hodaka Group on Yahoo.
Join the Club http://www.Hodakaclub.org
Thanks Kelly
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Bullfrog - 11/13/07 at 12:23pm
I'm planning on a test program to "find" better brakes from the Combat Wombat front hub. I'm sure they can be made better within the scope of "shade tree" mechanical skills. Unfortunately, I'm not the world's speediest development guy. For example, I can see that there will be NO testing until after the 1st of the new year . . . quite possibly not until Feb/Mar . . . after the coldest weather of the year has passed. But progress should be made in pretty big chunks once I get back in the saddle.
I can see no reason your machine should foul plugs. I'm running the OEM points ignition system and have used 3 plugs this calendar year and the 3rd plug is still in there and running fine (the fresh one put in for the ISDT RR). . . only ONE of the plug "change outs" were done out of "need" - I could hear a slight high RPM miss during practice at one of the AHRMA MX events I attended.
If you are fouling plugs frequently, something is wrong. Jetting needs adjusting, air cleaner is leaking grunge, engine air leak, excessive compression, ignition system weakness, ignition timing improperly set . . . something.
Ed
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lugnut - 11/13/07 at 12:25pm
If you aren't a large rider, you can get better brakes by lacing a road toad hub on an aluminum front wheel and putting that on your bike. If you are larger then go with the 250/03 front end. You will like the bigger forks.
I believe in the Mark Eichcorn philosophy "Ride em, don't hide em". I can't build a bike to compete with any of the show quality bikes but I can build a bike that is very mechanically sound and not ugly therefore that's what I do. I wouldn't hesitate to ride anything I have through a big mud hole if it got in the way.
Either way, I would STRONGLY recommend you plan on bringing it to the RR next year if at all possible.
About ignition, 2 of the 3 nut brothers were running points ignitions and they had no trouble at the RR. I know there were probably more, I just didn't inquire about that. If you get them set properly and seal the side case you shouldn't have any trouble with them. Points get a lot of grief when the problems are really somewhere else e.g.- low compression, improper jetting, dirty carb, dirty air filter, Wires rubbed bare.
anyway whatever you do you should enjoy your many hours of wrenching and riding your new again Hodaka.
Later,
Darrin
Nut Bros. Racing
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Forum Admin - 11/13/07 at 5:47pm
Great information guys thank you ! While I was in Oregon I asked Kathy to post how to install the PVL ignitions on my Technical Tips page. I hope this may make things easier for everyone. I will post soon where and how I mount the CDI box and upper coil.
Thanks
Paul
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ASR - 11/16/07 at 4:35pm
How much can you go on a Overbore ? .40 .60.80? How far is safe?
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eicho1 - 11/16/07 at 10:31pm
While I can appreciate a "trailer queen," riding the old bikes tends to generate lots of conversation with the general public. The "old time" bikers still appreciate a classic when they see it. The gentleman who did my last bit of welding, told stories for a half an hour when he saw my Hodaka rolling chassis.
If you do use it as a rider/racer, and you have nice fenders and tank, I would recommend you replace them with some worn parts. Those seem to be the hard to find items.
Stock Hodaka overbores go to .040. Wiseco also had a .060 and a .080 piston. Strictly Hodaka might still have some of these. The one thing I noticed on the .060 piston is more mechanical noise from the cylinder.
Mark in Illinois
Hodaka Jr Trophy Team
Nut Bros Racing
HCM # 30
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ASR - 11/17/07 at 8:57am
While I can appreciate a "trailer queen", riding the old bikes tends to generate lots of conversation with the general public. The "old time" bikers still appreciate a classic when they see it. The gentleman who did my last bit of welding, told stories for a half an hour when he saw my Hodaka rolling chassis. (If you do use it as a rider/racer, and you have nice fenders and tank, I would recommend you replace them with some worn parts. Those seem to be the hard to find items. ) That's what I was thinking. I've already got some vintage RM forks lined up with brake and wheel. Any recommendations for replacing the one way damping shocks?
Progressive or Works ?
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SocalHodaka - 11/17/07 at 12:33pm
I have the Progressive shocks on my rat and they work good, I think they are a bit less $ then the works. What RM forks do you have, what dia? What triple clamps are you going to use? I have a set of 74 YZ forks I want to use and they fit the ED triples but the ED triples are wider the the YZ triple so the little brake knub on the YZ fork won't ingage in the slot on the hub. ED forks are becoming harder on find. Kelly
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ASR - 11/19/07 at 9:21am
Thanks for your feed back.so far
since I'm looking at placing a larger and a little long forks on.
Should I stick with the standard length shocks 13.5"
or i was thinking of something a little longer like 14.25" or 14.5' but still sticking to 4" travel
I'm trying to keep the chassis balanced
Would I run into any problems?
What kind of mods work best for the motor?
Thanks again
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SocalHodaka - 11/19/07 at 12:23pm
I'm kinda going though this right now. My Rat was setup with stock forks, SH Swingarm and 12.5 Progressive shocks. I then replaced the forks with ED 250 forks and now the fork angle rake is off, kinda fills like a chopper even though it's only off by a few degrees. From what I have read you what about 30 degrees on the forks, find this with a protractor on the forks and no shocks on the rear wheels on the ground. Rise the rear of the bike until the angle is right then measure the size of shock. Your shock my end up with more the 4", If you ride AHRMA you will just add spacers on the shaft to limit the travel, they have them at the track for a few bucks. This is the way I know it. Good Luck Kelly
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Bullfrog - 11/19/07 at 1:20pm
Two additional points:
1) Run your newer, longer forks up through the triple clamps as far as you can to limit the "raising" of the front end - check that front tire/fender do not bash something at full compression.
2) Be sure to keep an eye on the chain "runs" - longer shocks aim the end of the swing arm down and the top chain run can start sawing through the cross member of the frame just behind the engine.
Ed
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ASR - 11/29/07 at 9:13pm
Any recomendations to the motor?
reeds, pipe, carb, porting?
Just looking to make it run a little better
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Bullfrog - 11/29/07 at 10:56pm
What kind of riding did you say you want to do?
If you are planning on AHRMA MX, adding reeds will bump you up to Sportsman Class . . . and you'll get a chance to race against some pumped up Super Combats and Elsinores and Maicos and . . .
If you stay with piston port, you'll be in Classic Class . . . and maybe someday we'll be on the track at the same time.
Anyway, back to the question - What kind of riding do you want to do? The answer to that question will help zero in on the proper engine modifications, carb, pipe, etc to maximize your enjoyment of that kind of riding.
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ASR - 11/30/07 at 8:05am
At this time I'm undecided?
A little MX and A Little XC,
maybe the RR?
I'm east coast, ARMHA has the Potomac vintage ridgers that have tracks really close to me.
Currently I do MX and GNCC, XC on a KTM
I'm looking to upgrade the CW to something that is more ridable.
Thanks to anyone with advise.
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Bullfrog - 11/30/07 at 1:08pm
Ummmm, you didn't address the issue of piston port vs. reed valve --- which class do you want to be in?
My own scooter is piston port and quite effective within the Classic Class (the machine is more competitive than the rider)
You mentioned that you want to make the machine more ride-able -- I'm not sure it was your intent, but . . . yes, suspension improvements can make a big difference. I installed a Model 03 front suspension and new Progressive shocks from Strictly Hodaka -- and I'm very happy with the ride. For this rider (ie ME), extending the swing arm would probably be more work/expense than it would be worth - since I slow down for bumps and turns. Other more aggressive riders might benefit from a little more wheelbase.
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Jared - 11/30/07 at 8:19pm
If you would like to race, my recommendation is to keep it piston port. IMO the Combat Wombat is one of the bikes to have in the classic class. The classic class races I have been in are a blast and the competitor's bikes are nicely prepared relatively stock representations of their marque. When you move into Sportsman you start seeing more "Gonzo" bikes with pretty trick stuff. That can be a lot of fun if you like building up race bikes.
Jared #825
Nut Bros Racing
HCM 124
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ASR - 12/02/07 at 9:23am
I appreciate all the advise. I guess I'm remembering when the local AMA District ran a vintage series, In that you ran what you brought.
Some where very modified others where pretty much stock. If any one has any tuning advise, timing, carb settings, or tricks etc. that Paul hasn't already posted on his web site. Let me know. I'm just trying to catch up with the Hodaka brand.
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eicho1 - 12/03/07 at 12:59am
You should probably determine which vintage group you will ride it with, and go from there. If it's AHRMA, I would also recommend keeping it piston port for classic class. They are very competitive there. AHRMA also has some other rules specific for classic bikes. Their web site has a copy of the rule book. Some of the local vintage groups are a little more lenient.
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hodakaronwa - 02/17/08 at 4:23pm
Stay piston port for sure...........You will enjoy it much more and be with even competition. Plus the piston port engines are very healthy enough.
There is many little improvements which will greatly improve the fantastic performance which the C?W already has OEM. Fouling plugs? You need to get the C/W shop manuel and learn to keep your engine in top tune. Don't idle so much?
The pistons came up to .040" oversize from hodaka and I have seen up to .080" from other sources.
You will love your C/W before you are through, it was meant to be raced.
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ASR - 02/23/08 at 8:44am
Soo far, I've worked on the suspension, new shocks,extended/ re-valved the forks. I was thinking of placing a larger carb, 30/32mm
just not sure if I was going to have a jetting problem? This bike is pretty cherry right now, After thinking about it. I'll keep it in the Classic class.
But I am looking to improve the brakes, better brake cable, Who stocks softer brake shoes?, I read in an old Magazine that some Suzuki brakes work better, Does anyone know which one's convert to the C/W front? (There is many little improvements which will greatly improve the fantastic performance which the C?W already has OEM.)
Have I missed anything? Gearing? compression?
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warhatchet - 02/23/08 at 11:30pm
ASR, When I finish putting my Combat Wombat back together I plan on using the PVL ignition and copper head gasket to bump the compression up, I am gearing towards a little more performance and reliability. My first CW that I owned in 1975 or 1976 ran great and didn't foul plugs. Didn't even think about greasing the shifting cover back then! Have any pictures of your CW? Sounds like you are having a lot of fun!
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War_Possum - 02/24/08 at 10:23pm
If you want to go AHRMA racing, here are some engine mods to consider. Replace the CW trans with one from a Super Combat. Your CW does not have a close ratio gear set. The super combat CDI ignition will also pick it up remarkable.I believe that AHRMA has a 32mm carb size for the classic class. This is 4mm larger than the stock carb, and it will like it. If you could find an era Bassani pipe, hold on bro. A copper head gasket that Paul sells will definitely bump your compression. If you have the cases split, put the cylinder onto one half and check the transfer port match ups. You can gain considerable port velocity by matching these up. The super combat exhaust port is 2mm taller than on the Combat. Raising this will gain you RPMs, but you will sacrifice torque.
These mods will make your CW really fast, but you can gain so much power, that you can force the crank out of alignment. Paul sells a Hot Rod kit that will basically fix this problem. It contains a Super Combat rod pin.
I'm making so much H.P. with my Super Combat that I had to weld the crank pin in because we warped it three times.
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eicho1 - 02/28/08 at 10:28pm
Are you using a spigot mount or flange mount 32 carb? Just wondering if the stock inlet manifold can be modified for a spigot mount carb.
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Forum Admin - 02/29/08 at 7:42am
Spigot mount I believe he has Mark just like this one
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bobwhitman - 03/03/08 at 6:16pm
Paul-
How do you get the spigot mount for the Combat? Do you sell it? For what size carb(s) might it be used? I've tried to figure out how to fit a 26mm (Toad) carb onto a model 94 Wombat. Only way seems to be to buy an $85 adapter from SUDCO, correct?
Bob in OR
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ASR - 03/03/08 at 6:39pm
Tucker Rocky sells them, I've been looking at that set up.
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hodakaronwa - 03/09/08 at 2:26pm
Gosh! I have read some really great C/W input but some of it will move your bike up in class as far as AHRMA is concerned. I am out here on the WEST and our AHRMA TEKS know what they are looking at. I have three of them being raced during the season. We always make it through TEK inspection with flying colors. The stock C/W pipe is an excellent pipe but to get the most from it here is a proven trick. There as far as I know, two differen't pipes. One with the smaller arrestor and one with the larger O.D. arrestor. I remove the arrestor ASSY. and build my own to slide into the stock pipe and it looks OEM. I use a 3/4" electrical conduit and two large flat washers. I use a lathe and machine the washers so they will slip inside of the arrestor housing like the OEM unit. I cut the length of the conduit to just slip into the chamber and flush out at the end the same as the OEM Arrestor did. Then braze the washers to center the conduit and to flush out like the OEM unit did, I tack a 6mm nut inside of the end washer to utalize the OEM fastener. Now drill the new stinger with a 1/8" drill bit like a screen. Then wrap the new unit with fiberglass packing then wire it in place. Paint the end like the original black. Now you will have a to really do some testing and dyno work to beat the performance of the stock pipe this way.Plus you have not destroyed the stock value of the OEM pipe as well as made TEK inspections a breeze to pass.
The stock carb works just fine all around and with some of the other mods previously mentioned you don't need a larger carb.
I have one with the stock gears and one with the close ratio gears and a spare engine with another set of gears?
We have found that the close ratio gear set is not the solution for every race track and switch motors containing different gear sets as needed. For basic riding I would not suggest the close ratio gear set. And the engine with close ratio set is assisted by a bit higher exhaust port.
The Hodaka CDI is a very worthwhile addition and will eliminate crankshaft twisting. PVL is even a bit better. Increase the filter area as per Hodaka instructions is a great performance improvement, which is very noticeable.
For those really into it? I machine my cases to except the needle bearings same as the rats and super combats. You can replace both bronze bushings with Needle bearings but the cases must be machined by a competent machinist.
Port the cases to increase area as well as port matching afterwards, you can raise the exhaust as well as the transfer ports as well as open up the Victory port and the port through the piston.
There are many little tricks to accomplish before jumping to a larger carburetor which will cause you problems and change your low end performance drastically. Plus you will not make the class in AHRMA where these bikes dominate.
Actually I believe when you get your C/W dialed in with stock components you will actually be surprised. We also step up in class at some events and come home with a trophy or two. I have not found it necessary to either weld or modify the crank pin. If you are pressing and aligning your own crankshaft if it takes less than 3000psig to press it apart you might have problems. The crank pin came in tenths of thousands oversize marked on the end of the pin. This makes for a tighter fit in the crank halves. If it takes less than 2500PSIG to separate or press the crank together then I would save that assembly for a wombat. I always try to use a 4000-5000psig press fit for the hotter 125's.
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hodakaronwa - 03/10/08 at 10:46pm
Something to ADD about welding the crank? When you do this your crankshaft is rendered not rebuild-able again. When and if it goes it will be scrap! The actual welding operation of the crank will in itself cause the crank to go into misalignment. I do lots of crankshafts for different brands of motorcycles, you would be surprised how easy it is to change the readings on the dial indicator of a crankshaft. I have welded a crank or two with good luck but I do not recommend doing it. The best way is to use a small cut off tool and cut a key slot across opposite sides of the pin and crank half. about 1/6th deep and about 3/8th inch on each side. Then have a master welder tig-weld and fill in the slot. This makes like a key, you may have to polish the weld down flush with the crank halves. Do not get the crank too hot or hotter Undecided on just one side. Do not quench it with cold water, this will immediately misalign the crank.
Now even with the best of care if you place that welded crank back into the bench centers and rotate it under a dial gauge, you have changed the perfect alignment. Now it will have to be aligned again the best you can as you now do not have the options you did prior to welding the thing in the first place.
"SO IS IT WORTH IT?"
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Forum Admin - 03/11/08 at 7:46am
Ron I have asked Roger Lippiatt to weld the crank on the " Wolverine" from now on. It seems that this bike with the amount of horsepower it is putting out had trouble keeping the crank from twisting.
For some reason we have not seen a twisted crank on any of the 100's even the Super Duper Rat's that Harry feels are putting out close to 30 HP.
Roger welds the cranks very similar to what you suggested . Then he polishes the weld down so it is smooth.
You are correct that welding the crank does stand the chance of tweaking it out of alignment but he seems to have it nailed down so it does not happen. He does NOT cool the crank after welding except for letting it sit untouched for hours. For us not welding the crank was not an option we had to do it.
Tommy Croft will be on it for the expert 125cc class at Diamond Don's. Cross your toes it all goes well.
Paul
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sachs175 - 03/11/08 at 3:43pm
Paul,
Another option to welding the crank is to taper the crank pin hole in each crank half and taper the ends of the big end rod pin. I had trouble with the first run of Wombats we got twisting the crank when ridden hard.
Would any one in the group know who could taper the lower rod pin and the crank half's ? I use another brand of engine that has that stock and it works. You had better have the crank very close to true when pressed together because its a bear to move for alignment.
John D.
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eicho1 - 03/11/08 at 5:58pm
I like this tapered pin idea. I hope it is something which can be pursued for the 125's. I threw the "new" rebuilt crank out of alignment on my Super Combat. It has a welded pin now. The cranks on the Hot Rod 125's seem to need a little extra, and I would like to see more of them out there with the confidence that they are going to make it. On the 03 Wombat, they widened the crank halves, possibly because of this.
I am rebuilding a Combat Wombat right now. I noticed the crank is out of alignment, although it wasn't dragging yet. If I have it trued up, can I expect it to be a problem down the road? Or does it have to be either welded, or a new rod kit with a tighter pin installed? It runs a stock ignition.
Mark in Illinois
VMX # 492
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hodakaronwa - 03/11/08 at 11:57pm
I would like to know how that tapering the large end of a crank pin can be of any assistance at all.
You cannot add metal, you can only remove metal therefore making the pin fit into the crank half even a looser fit? Could someone explain this to me?
That pin is HARD! and you would have to add HARD! metal in the tenths of thousands of an inch with a perfect finish. So whats the trick here?
In some remaining hodaka inventories there are crank pins that are +2 +4 +6 this means + tenths of one thousands over the stock pin. This makes a huge difference in the press fit of that pin. And yes care must be taken as the crank is pressed together so as not to make too much work for yourself during the alignment process. You want to get a close as you can to start with. This tight fit is tough to move during alignment but can be done. If you were to add .001" of an inch to the O.D. of the pin you would have to heat the crank halves to almost red hot and shrink the pin with liquid nitrogen or dry ice to even get it to press fit.
So what is this grind the pin and the crank halves secret anyway? I am curious as heck about this one...........
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sachs175 - 03/12/08 at 10:01am
Hodakaronwa,
I am in the middle of two projects so it will be w week or to before i can measure a crank and rod kit for the engine with tapered rod pin.
You will have to add and or remove metal from the crank half and the rod big end pin. It not a quick fix but it could cancel the need for welding the crank and make it rebuildable.
If you have a Wombat crank you can measure that would help. I will do the same with the other brands crank to see how wide the web is and how much of a taper is needed to hold.
If there is enough material in the Wombat crank web it will work. The crank pin hole in the crank halves could be built up and recut to taper. The rod pins can be tapered. It takes a precision grinder and someone that know how. The down side is it usually takes an order of 50 to 100 pins to get the cost down to a manageable amount. we had some rod kits made up 2 years ago. I think min order to get it done was 100.
A better way than welding and loosening a crank when the rod goes if its doable with the amounts of metal we have to work with.
Will try and get the time to measure my crank this week. The taper on the pins i have is not noticeable. It could be possible to take and existing oversize pin and use it. Will measure mine a soon as i can and post the #'s
John D.
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Munster642 - 03/17/08 at 9:28pm
Mark, man am I confused. I am just about ready to put an engine back together and now I see that you mention that your crank is out of alignment.
What do I look for (on the crank and inside the cases)and how do I check to see if in fact it is out of alignment?
What "is" the fix if it is?
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eicho1 - 03/18/08 at 3:13am
On mine I put the kick retainer washers in to check for clearance. I also installed the crank. Placed the case halves together, a couple of screws, and spun the crank cause I'm easily amused. Well, it appeared to be wobbling on the mag end. I looked inside at the crank halves, and I could see the clearance between the crank half and the case change. The real way to test it would be with a dial indicator and a couple of V blocks. This motor ran ok before I tore it down, but all I did was putt around the yard on it. I tore it down to steal a 03 cylinder, and repair case damage. When I threw the crank out on my 97, it felt like I had seized the motor. After tearing it down, it took me a while to figure out the crank was out of whack.
What the "fix is", is a good question. Can you expect it to stay true if it is realigned? Or would the best "repair" be to have a tighter pin installed? The other option is to weld the crank pin as discussed above. If it was running good before you tore it down, it's probably ok. But since it's apart, it's probably a good time to check it over. Especially if the motor is "hopped up."
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sachs175 - 03/19/08 at 8:34am
hodakaron ,mark,
I did the measuring on the big end pin below is a diagram and what i found. The crank half's are just at .775 inches in width.
The Taper is shown in the drawing . Let me know if you can see it ok and does anyone have the same dimensions for the Wombat rod pin and crank they can share ? ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/12809785@N06/2344578817/ )
John D.
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END OF THREAD
Recently I bought a bike I had in my youth, from 30 years ago.
I few things that came to my attention.
1) The bike is smaller than i remember -I think I grew (LOL)
2)The front brake has very little stopping power- I know why those down hills 30 years ago scared me.
3) It still fouls plugs like i remember.
I'm debating on what to do with it know?
The bike is complete ,just needs a little cosmetic referb
Should I keep it all orignal-And ride it a few times ayear (show and tell)
Or should I make it better than it was
and compete in events like (the ISDT sounds like fun)
or
Should I put on a CDI , how can I make the brake work better, etc. etc. ???
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SocalHodaka - 11/13/07 at 10:03am
You can keep it stock with just a few modifications that are easy to reverse to put back to stock. The forks are one that most swap out with 03 Wombat or ED 250 forks, these are getting harder to find so I'm sure some people are starting to resource other brands to use. The front brake from the Road Toad is also the hub a lot are using for better stopping power. I have a CDI on my CW and works good for MX. The PVL CDI ignition has adjustable weights you can change for different riding conditions.
Look for more info here and also the Hodaka Group on Yahoo.
Join the Club http://www.Hodakaclub.org
Thanks Kelly
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Bullfrog - 11/13/07 at 12:23pm
I'm planning on a test program to "find" better brakes from the Combat Wombat front hub. I'm sure they can be made better within the scope of "shade tree" mechanical skills. Unfortunately, I'm not the world's speediest development guy. For example, I can see that there will be NO testing until after the 1st of the new year . . . quite possibly not until Feb/Mar . . . after the coldest weather of the year has passed. But progress should be made in pretty big chunks once I get back in the saddle.
I can see no reason your machine should foul plugs. I'm running the OEM points ignition system and have used 3 plugs this calendar year and the 3rd plug is still in there and running fine (the fresh one put in for the ISDT RR). . . only ONE of the plug "change outs" were done out of "need" - I could hear a slight high RPM miss during practice at one of the AHRMA MX events I attended.
If you are fouling plugs frequently, something is wrong. Jetting needs adjusting, air cleaner is leaking grunge, engine air leak, excessive compression, ignition system weakness, ignition timing improperly set . . . something.
Ed
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lugnut - 11/13/07 at 12:25pm
If you aren't a large rider, you can get better brakes by lacing a road toad hub on an aluminum front wheel and putting that on your bike. If you are larger then go with the 250/03 front end. You will like the bigger forks.
I believe in the Mark Eichcorn philosophy "Ride em, don't hide em". I can't build a bike to compete with any of the show quality bikes but I can build a bike that is very mechanically sound and not ugly therefore that's what I do. I wouldn't hesitate to ride anything I have through a big mud hole if it got in the way.
Either way, I would STRONGLY recommend you plan on bringing it to the RR next year if at all possible.
About ignition, 2 of the 3 nut brothers were running points ignitions and they had no trouble at the RR. I know there were probably more, I just didn't inquire about that. If you get them set properly and seal the side case you shouldn't have any trouble with them. Points get a lot of grief when the problems are really somewhere else e.g.- low compression, improper jetting, dirty carb, dirty air filter, Wires rubbed bare.
anyway whatever you do you should enjoy your many hours of wrenching and riding your new again Hodaka.
Later,
Darrin
Nut Bros. Racing
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Forum Admin - 11/13/07 at 5:47pm
Great information guys thank you ! While I was in Oregon I asked Kathy to post how to install the PVL ignitions on my Technical Tips page. I hope this may make things easier for everyone. I will post soon where and how I mount the CDI box and upper coil.
Thanks
Paul
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ASR - 11/16/07 at 4:35pm
How much can you go on a Overbore ? .40 .60.80? How far is safe?
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eicho1 - 11/16/07 at 10:31pm
While I can appreciate a "trailer queen," riding the old bikes tends to generate lots of conversation with the general public. The "old time" bikers still appreciate a classic when they see it. The gentleman who did my last bit of welding, told stories for a half an hour when he saw my Hodaka rolling chassis.
If you do use it as a rider/racer, and you have nice fenders and tank, I would recommend you replace them with some worn parts. Those seem to be the hard to find items.
Stock Hodaka overbores go to .040. Wiseco also had a .060 and a .080 piston. Strictly Hodaka might still have some of these. The one thing I noticed on the .060 piston is more mechanical noise from the cylinder.
Mark in Illinois
Hodaka Jr Trophy Team
Nut Bros Racing
HCM # 30
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ASR - 11/17/07 at 8:57am
While I can appreciate a "trailer queen", riding the old bikes tends to generate lots of conversation with the general public. The "old time" bikers still appreciate a classic when they see it. The gentleman who did my last bit of welding, told stories for a half an hour when he saw my Hodaka rolling chassis. (If you do use it as a rider/racer, and you have nice fenders and tank, I would recommend you replace them with some worn parts. Those seem to be the hard to find items. ) That's what I was thinking. I've already got some vintage RM forks lined up with brake and wheel. Any recommendations for replacing the one way damping shocks?
Progressive or Works ?
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SocalHodaka - 11/17/07 at 12:33pm
I have the Progressive shocks on my rat and they work good, I think they are a bit less $ then the works. What RM forks do you have, what dia? What triple clamps are you going to use? I have a set of 74 YZ forks I want to use and they fit the ED triples but the ED triples are wider the the YZ triple so the little brake knub on the YZ fork won't ingage in the slot on the hub. ED forks are becoming harder on find. Kelly
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ASR - 11/19/07 at 9:21am
Thanks for your feed back.so far
since I'm looking at placing a larger and a little long forks on.
Should I stick with the standard length shocks 13.5"
or i was thinking of something a little longer like 14.25" or 14.5' but still sticking to 4" travel
I'm trying to keep the chassis balanced
Would I run into any problems?
What kind of mods work best for the motor?
Thanks again
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SocalHodaka - 11/19/07 at 12:23pm
I'm kinda going though this right now. My Rat was setup with stock forks, SH Swingarm and 12.5 Progressive shocks. I then replaced the forks with ED 250 forks and now the fork angle rake is off, kinda fills like a chopper even though it's only off by a few degrees. From what I have read you what about 30 degrees on the forks, find this with a protractor on the forks and no shocks on the rear wheels on the ground. Rise the rear of the bike until the angle is right then measure the size of shock. Your shock my end up with more the 4", If you ride AHRMA you will just add spacers on the shaft to limit the travel, they have them at the track for a few bucks. This is the way I know it. Good Luck Kelly
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Bullfrog - 11/19/07 at 1:20pm
Two additional points:
1) Run your newer, longer forks up through the triple clamps as far as you can to limit the "raising" of the front end - check that front tire/fender do not bash something at full compression.
2) Be sure to keep an eye on the chain "runs" - longer shocks aim the end of the swing arm down and the top chain run can start sawing through the cross member of the frame just behind the engine.
Ed
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ASR - 11/29/07 at 9:13pm
Any recomendations to the motor?
reeds, pipe, carb, porting?
Just looking to make it run a little better
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Bullfrog - 11/29/07 at 10:56pm
What kind of riding did you say you want to do?
If you are planning on AHRMA MX, adding reeds will bump you up to Sportsman Class . . . and you'll get a chance to race against some pumped up Super Combats and Elsinores and Maicos and . . .
If you stay with piston port, you'll be in Classic Class . . . and maybe someday we'll be on the track at the same time.
Anyway, back to the question - What kind of riding do you want to do? The answer to that question will help zero in on the proper engine modifications, carb, pipe, etc to maximize your enjoyment of that kind of riding.
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ASR - 11/30/07 at 8:05am
At this time I'm undecided?
A little MX and A Little XC,
maybe the RR?
I'm east coast, ARMHA has the Potomac vintage ridgers that have tracks really close to me.
Currently I do MX and GNCC, XC on a KTM
I'm looking to upgrade the CW to something that is more ridable.
Thanks to anyone with advise.
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Bullfrog - 11/30/07 at 1:08pm
Ummmm, you didn't address the issue of piston port vs. reed valve --- which class do you want to be in?
My own scooter is piston port and quite effective within the Classic Class (the machine is more competitive than the rider)
You mentioned that you want to make the machine more ride-able -- I'm not sure it was your intent, but . . . yes, suspension improvements can make a big difference. I installed a Model 03 front suspension and new Progressive shocks from Strictly Hodaka -- and I'm very happy with the ride. For this rider (ie ME), extending the swing arm would probably be more work/expense than it would be worth - since I slow down for bumps and turns. Other more aggressive riders might benefit from a little more wheelbase.
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Jared - 11/30/07 at 8:19pm
If you would like to race, my recommendation is to keep it piston port. IMO the Combat Wombat is one of the bikes to have in the classic class. The classic class races I have been in are a blast and the competitor's bikes are nicely prepared relatively stock representations of their marque. When you move into Sportsman you start seeing more "Gonzo" bikes with pretty trick stuff. That can be a lot of fun if you like building up race bikes.
Jared #825
Nut Bros Racing
HCM 124
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ASR - 12/02/07 at 9:23am
I appreciate all the advise. I guess I'm remembering when the local AMA District ran a vintage series, In that you ran what you brought.
Some where very modified others where pretty much stock. If any one has any tuning advise, timing, carb settings, or tricks etc. that Paul hasn't already posted on his web site. Let me know. I'm just trying to catch up with the Hodaka brand.
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eicho1 - 12/03/07 at 12:59am
You should probably determine which vintage group you will ride it with, and go from there. If it's AHRMA, I would also recommend keeping it piston port for classic class. They are very competitive there. AHRMA also has some other rules specific for classic bikes. Their web site has a copy of the rule book. Some of the local vintage groups are a little more lenient.
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hodakaronwa - 02/17/08 at 4:23pm
Stay piston port for sure...........You will enjoy it much more and be with even competition. Plus the piston port engines are very healthy enough.
There is many little improvements which will greatly improve the fantastic performance which the C?W already has OEM. Fouling plugs? You need to get the C/W shop manuel and learn to keep your engine in top tune. Don't idle so much?
The pistons came up to .040" oversize from hodaka and I have seen up to .080" from other sources.
You will love your C/W before you are through, it was meant to be raced.
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ASR - 02/23/08 at 8:44am
Soo far, I've worked on the suspension, new shocks,extended/ re-valved the forks. I was thinking of placing a larger carb, 30/32mm
just not sure if I was going to have a jetting problem? This bike is pretty cherry right now, After thinking about it. I'll keep it in the Classic class.
But I am looking to improve the brakes, better brake cable, Who stocks softer brake shoes?, I read in an old Magazine that some Suzuki brakes work better, Does anyone know which one's convert to the C/W front? (There is many little improvements which will greatly improve the fantastic performance which the C?W already has OEM.)
Have I missed anything? Gearing? compression?
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warhatchet - 02/23/08 at 11:30pm
ASR, When I finish putting my Combat Wombat back together I plan on using the PVL ignition and copper head gasket to bump the compression up, I am gearing towards a little more performance and reliability. My first CW that I owned in 1975 or 1976 ran great and didn't foul plugs. Didn't even think about greasing the shifting cover back then! Have any pictures of your CW? Sounds like you are having a lot of fun!
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War_Possum - 02/24/08 at 10:23pm
If you want to go AHRMA racing, here are some engine mods to consider. Replace the CW trans with one from a Super Combat. Your CW does not have a close ratio gear set. The super combat CDI ignition will also pick it up remarkable.I believe that AHRMA has a 32mm carb size for the classic class. This is 4mm larger than the stock carb, and it will like it. If you could find an era Bassani pipe, hold on bro. A copper head gasket that Paul sells will definitely bump your compression. If you have the cases split, put the cylinder onto one half and check the transfer port match ups. You can gain considerable port velocity by matching these up. The super combat exhaust port is 2mm taller than on the Combat. Raising this will gain you RPMs, but you will sacrifice torque.
These mods will make your CW really fast, but you can gain so much power, that you can force the crank out of alignment. Paul sells a Hot Rod kit that will basically fix this problem. It contains a Super Combat rod pin.
I'm making so much H.P. with my Super Combat that I had to weld the crank pin in because we warped it three times.
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eicho1 - 02/28/08 at 10:28pm
Are you using a spigot mount or flange mount 32 carb? Just wondering if the stock inlet manifold can be modified for a spigot mount carb.
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Forum Admin - 02/29/08 at 7:42am
Spigot mount I believe he has Mark just like this one
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bobwhitman - 03/03/08 at 6:16pm
Paul-
How do you get the spigot mount for the Combat? Do you sell it? For what size carb(s) might it be used? I've tried to figure out how to fit a 26mm (Toad) carb onto a model 94 Wombat. Only way seems to be to buy an $85 adapter from SUDCO, correct?
Bob in OR
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ASR - 03/03/08 at 6:39pm
Tucker Rocky sells them, I've been looking at that set up.
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hodakaronwa - 03/09/08 at 2:26pm
Gosh! I have read some really great C/W input but some of it will move your bike up in class as far as AHRMA is concerned. I am out here on the WEST and our AHRMA TEKS know what they are looking at. I have three of them being raced during the season. We always make it through TEK inspection with flying colors. The stock C/W pipe is an excellent pipe but to get the most from it here is a proven trick. There as far as I know, two differen't pipes. One with the smaller arrestor and one with the larger O.D. arrestor. I remove the arrestor ASSY. and build my own to slide into the stock pipe and it looks OEM. I use a 3/4" electrical conduit and two large flat washers. I use a lathe and machine the washers so they will slip inside of the arrestor housing like the OEM unit. I cut the length of the conduit to just slip into the chamber and flush out at the end the same as the OEM Arrestor did. Then braze the washers to center the conduit and to flush out like the OEM unit did, I tack a 6mm nut inside of the end washer to utalize the OEM fastener. Now drill the new stinger with a 1/8" drill bit like a screen. Then wrap the new unit with fiberglass packing then wire it in place. Paint the end like the original black. Now you will have a to really do some testing and dyno work to beat the performance of the stock pipe this way.Plus you have not destroyed the stock value of the OEM pipe as well as made TEK inspections a breeze to pass.
The stock carb works just fine all around and with some of the other mods previously mentioned you don't need a larger carb.
I have one with the stock gears and one with the close ratio gears and a spare engine with another set of gears?
We have found that the close ratio gear set is not the solution for every race track and switch motors containing different gear sets as needed. For basic riding I would not suggest the close ratio gear set. And the engine with close ratio set is assisted by a bit higher exhaust port.
The Hodaka CDI is a very worthwhile addition and will eliminate crankshaft twisting. PVL is even a bit better. Increase the filter area as per Hodaka instructions is a great performance improvement, which is very noticeable.
For those really into it? I machine my cases to except the needle bearings same as the rats and super combats. You can replace both bronze bushings with Needle bearings but the cases must be machined by a competent machinist.
Port the cases to increase area as well as port matching afterwards, you can raise the exhaust as well as the transfer ports as well as open up the Victory port and the port through the piston.
There are many little tricks to accomplish before jumping to a larger carburetor which will cause you problems and change your low end performance drastically. Plus you will not make the class in AHRMA where these bikes dominate.
Actually I believe when you get your C/W dialed in with stock components you will actually be surprised. We also step up in class at some events and come home with a trophy or two. I have not found it necessary to either weld or modify the crank pin. If you are pressing and aligning your own crankshaft if it takes less than 3000psig to press it apart you might have problems. The crank pin came in tenths of thousands oversize marked on the end of the pin. This makes for a tighter fit in the crank halves. If it takes less than 2500PSIG to separate or press the crank together then I would save that assembly for a wombat. I always try to use a 4000-5000psig press fit for the hotter 125's.
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hodakaronwa - 03/10/08 at 10:46pm
Something to ADD about welding the crank? When you do this your crankshaft is rendered not rebuild-able again. When and if it goes it will be scrap! The actual welding operation of the crank will in itself cause the crank to go into misalignment. I do lots of crankshafts for different brands of motorcycles, you would be surprised how easy it is to change the readings on the dial indicator of a crankshaft. I have welded a crank or two with good luck but I do not recommend doing it. The best way is to use a small cut off tool and cut a key slot across opposite sides of the pin and crank half. about 1/6th deep and about 3/8th inch on each side. Then have a master welder tig-weld and fill in the slot. This makes like a key, you may have to polish the weld down flush with the crank halves. Do not get the crank too hot or hotter Undecided on just one side. Do not quench it with cold water, this will immediately misalign the crank.
Now even with the best of care if you place that welded crank back into the bench centers and rotate it under a dial gauge, you have changed the perfect alignment. Now it will have to be aligned again the best you can as you now do not have the options you did prior to welding the thing in the first place.
"SO IS IT WORTH IT?"
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Forum Admin - 03/11/08 at 7:46am
Ron I have asked Roger Lippiatt to weld the crank on the " Wolverine" from now on. It seems that this bike with the amount of horsepower it is putting out had trouble keeping the crank from twisting.
For some reason we have not seen a twisted crank on any of the 100's even the Super Duper Rat's that Harry feels are putting out close to 30 HP.
Roger welds the cranks very similar to what you suggested . Then he polishes the weld down so it is smooth.
You are correct that welding the crank does stand the chance of tweaking it out of alignment but he seems to have it nailed down so it does not happen. He does NOT cool the crank after welding except for letting it sit untouched for hours. For us not welding the crank was not an option we had to do it.
Tommy Croft will be on it for the expert 125cc class at Diamond Don's. Cross your toes it all goes well.
Paul
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sachs175 - 03/11/08 at 3:43pm
Paul,
Another option to welding the crank is to taper the crank pin hole in each crank half and taper the ends of the big end rod pin. I had trouble with the first run of Wombats we got twisting the crank when ridden hard.
Would any one in the group know who could taper the lower rod pin and the crank half's ? I use another brand of engine that has that stock and it works. You had better have the crank very close to true when pressed together because its a bear to move for alignment.
John D.
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eicho1 - 03/11/08 at 5:58pm
I like this tapered pin idea. I hope it is something which can be pursued for the 125's. I threw the "new" rebuilt crank out of alignment on my Super Combat. It has a welded pin now. The cranks on the Hot Rod 125's seem to need a little extra, and I would like to see more of them out there with the confidence that they are going to make it. On the 03 Wombat, they widened the crank halves, possibly because of this.
I am rebuilding a Combat Wombat right now. I noticed the crank is out of alignment, although it wasn't dragging yet. If I have it trued up, can I expect it to be a problem down the road? Or does it have to be either welded, or a new rod kit with a tighter pin installed? It runs a stock ignition.
Mark in Illinois
VMX # 492
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hodakaronwa - 03/11/08 at 11:57pm
I would like to know how that tapering the large end of a crank pin can be of any assistance at all.
You cannot add metal, you can only remove metal therefore making the pin fit into the crank half even a looser fit? Could someone explain this to me?
That pin is HARD! and you would have to add HARD! metal in the tenths of thousands of an inch with a perfect finish. So whats the trick here?
In some remaining hodaka inventories there are crank pins that are +2 +4 +6 this means + tenths of one thousands over the stock pin. This makes a huge difference in the press fit of that pin. And yes care must be taken as the crank is pressed together so as not to make too much work for yourself during the alignment process. You want to get a close as you can to start with. This tight fit is tough to move during alignment but can be done. If you were to add .001" of an inch to the O.D. of the pin you would have to heat the crank halves to almost red hot and shrink the pin with liquid nitrogen or dry ice to even get it to press fit.
So what is this grind the pin and the crank halves secret anyway? I am curious as heck about this one...........
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sachs175 - 03/12/08 at 10:01am
Hodakaronwa,
I am in the middle of two projects so it will be w week or to before i can measure a crank and rod kit for the engine with tapered rod pin.
You will have to add and or remove metal from the crank half and the rod big end pin. It not a quick fix but it could cancel the need for welding the crank and make it rebuildable.
If you have a Wombat crank you can measure that would help. I will do the same with the other brands crank to see how wide the web is and how much of a taper is needed to hold.
If there is enough material in the Wombat crank web it will work. The crank pin hole in the crank halves could be built up and recut to taper. The rod pins can be tapered. It takes a precision grinder and someone that know how. The down side is it usually takes an order of 50 to 100 pins to get the cost down to a manageable amount. we had some rod kits made up 2 years ago. I think min order to get it done was 100.
A better way than welding and loosening a crank when the rod goes if its doable with the amounts of metal we have to work with.
Will try and get the time to measure my crank this week. The taper on the pins i have is not noticeable. It could be possible to take and existing oversize pin and use it. Will measure mine a soon as i can and post the #'s
John D.
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Munster642 - 03/17/08 at 9:28pm
Mark, man am I confused. I am just about ready to put an engine back together and now I see that you mention that your crank is out of alignment.
What do I look for (on the crank and inside the cases)and how do I check to see if in fact it is out of alignment?
What "is" the fix if it is?
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eicho1 - 03/18/08 at 3:13am
On mine I put the kick retainer washers in to check for clearance. I also installed the crank. Placed the case halves together, a couple of screws, and spun the crank cause I'm easily amused. Well, it appeared to be wobbling on the mag end. I looked inside at the crank halves, and I could see the clearance between the crank half and the case change. The real way to test it would be with a dial indicator and a couple of V blocks. This motor ran ok before I tore it down, but all I did was putt around the yard on it. I tore it down to steal a 03 cylinder, and repair case damage. When I threw the crank out on my 97, it felt like I had seized the motor. After tearing it down, it took me a while to figure out the crank was out of whack.
What the "fix is", is a good question. Can you expect it to stay true if it is realigned? Or would the best "repair" be to have a tighter pin installed? The other option is to weld the crank pin as discussed above. If it was running good before you tore it down, it's probably ok. But since it's apart, it's probably a good time to check it over. Especially if the motor is "hopped up."
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sachs175 - 03/19/08 at 8:34am
hodakaron ,mark,
I did the measuring on the big end pin below is a diagram and what i found. The crank half's are just at .775 inches in width.
The Taper is shown in the drawing . Let me know if you can see it ok and does anyone have the same dimensions for the Wombat rod pin and crank they can share ? ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/12809785@N06/2344578817/ )
John D.
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