The Hodaka Club Forum

I don't want to start a war (like in "what oil to use"), but what are you using to safety wire the clutch screws. I have safety wire, but it is VERY hard to thread through all seven screws and then get pulled tight. I might be using too large of wire (I don't remember what size I have right now and the label fell off the can). So, what are the recommendations? Thanks in advance. David Barr

The safety wire that Paul sells is listed at .85mm. This would be .033 inches. This is what I have used and I also have a roll of .032 safety wire. Pretty thin stuff. I know others are using ny-lock nuts and no safety wire. I have not tried that, but I do know that some that do, ride 10 times harder than I do, so it must work pretty well.

David,
The .032 inch safety wire is fairly standard and correct for this use. I will try to explain how I do it.

First, you need a secure way to hold the assembled clutch. You will need both hands to accomplish a good safety wire job. In the picture below I used an old clutch side crank half held in the vise. Since this picture I cut the shaft end off this crank half and turned down the bearing area so the shaft is one diameter....easier to hold in the vise.

Second, I mark the tightening direction of the screws.......I'm getting old you know.

Third, Cut off a long length of safety wire, longer than required for the complete job, and thread it through the first screw.....leave about 3 inches sticking out the loose end. I fold that end over 180 degrees and it allows me to tighten the next section of wire.

Fourth, you will need a small ball peen hammer and medium size vise grip pliers. Thread the long end of the safety wire through the next screw so it pulls the screw in a tightening direction. Grip the safety wire at the very end with the vise grips. Tap the vise grips with the hammer to pull the wire tight. With the wire tight you can now bend the wire at an angle and it will stay reasonably tight. Proceed to the next screw and repeat. Basically you are tightening each section of wire as you go. Also you only want to clamp on to the excess wire. Using the vise grips on any section of the wire that becomes part of the clutch is not advised....it will weaken the wire.

Fifth, The last section of wire is routed around the first screw and twisted to the loose 3 inch section of wire, trimmed and tucked.

Danny

Really good explanation Danny, You need to pass that on to the Resonator under Tech Tips.

Max

I agree with Max. A very good explanation and illustration. Thanks Danny. I find it amazing how difficult things can be until one learns a better way of going about it. I have never looked forward to this particular task, but now that I have a new use for my ball peen hammer I am ready to go build a clutch!

Well, I guess any time men get to use hammers and vise grip pliers it is a good day. Not often you get to use both of these tools on the same item and it is the appropriate tool for the task. I am happy you find the info helpful.

I will try to put something together for the Resonator with a bit more detail.

Danny

When you get it together, Danny, please send it to me for the Resonator. Really straight-forward and clear! The others beat me ; I was going to ask, then read the other posts!

Bob
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Excellent! Take it from an old aircraft assembler, safety wire done wrong is worse than no safety wire at all.

Andy Lippert shared a good tip with me some years ago regarding safety wire. He recommended the use of one of the old fashioned magnet tipped transmission drain plugs in conjunction with plain steel safety wire rather than stainless steel safety wire. By doing this, if the safety wire breaks and bits of it are freed into the oil, they should get "collected" by the magnet.

NOTE: The magnet tipped transmission drain plugs also provide an easy way of checking for nasty metallic bits in your oil.

NOTE: I may need to knock on wood, but I've never experienced a clutch safety wire break.

NOTE: No, I don't know where you can get a magnet tipped transmission drain plug currently (haven't researched it). And, no, I don't have a magnet tipped transmission drain plug in any of my bikes . . . but if I had one, I'd use it.

Ed

Now that you mention it, I have a NOS magnetic drain plug somewhere in my scattered bits. Still in its original package. It is from a CH-47 gear box. I would need to re-tap the case to except it of course.

A search on the net led me to drainplugmagnets.com which has all sizes including ours for about $35 each.

Max

I deleted a previous post so I could research sizes and check in with Paul first to make sure I am not stepping on anyone's toes. I do have Moose magnetic drain plugs available in Hodaka size 8x1.25x12. This size is not available in colors other than silver, although the Honda plug (available in red) is the right thread size but is 20mm long instead of 12mm. I haven't checked yet for clearance on the longer red plug. The retail price at any Parts Unlimited dealer on these drain plugs is $22.95.

Ivan I will buy a few from you for a couple of my bikes. I look forward to seeing you soon. Dinner??????
Thanks
Paul

Rick.

Maybe we could wire the tranny up for chip lights??

Danny

Actually, the one I have does have a provision for an electrical connection. It is a chip detector style plug. Once enough particles bridge the magnet gap, it creates a short from the center to the plug. It is essentially a switch. Those aircraft guys are so clever.