The Hodaka Club Forum

Hello, the good, local liquidation of motorcycle parts from the 60s on up, great scores. The bad, left my manual there and haven't found it past few times I've gone!!!! So I'm doing a first time rebuild, got my bearing and seals. Have some free time so till I find a manual any advice technique for removing and replacing? Seals, bearing oil or dry? I figure heat the case up and tap out the bearing. Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Right on, get it done then post some photos

What model bike are you working on? ; D Victor

Apologies, Ace100 b+...

The bike I'm restoring is the same! The PO is sending me a copy of his shop manual. If you can wait a few days, when I recieve it I can copy it and send you a copy! ; D Victor

That would be awesome! I accidentally left mine at a motorcycle liquidation sale! Oops, keep me posted, thanks.

OK will do. As soon as it arrives here, I will copy it and mail it to you. Send me an email with your postal address. Email me at ....
[email protected] and I can mail it once its copied. ; D Victor

Thanks!! I'm the meantime does anyone have the procedure for the removal and replacement of the seals and bearings. Mainly need to know about fitting them dry or wet?

I use the impact driver I use to take out the case screws. If you remove the screw tip you have a nice solid shaft to punch out the bearings. Bearings are cheap so I never put the same ones back in. Don't forget to remove the snap rings on the right half.

I always install the new ones dry. I like to put the bearings in the freezer for a couple hours and heat the case up with a sunlamp. I wear gloves and quickly line up the new bearings. The faster you work, the easier they go in. I use a hammer and tap them in only striking the outside edge of the bearing. Do not pound on the center. Make sure they are completely seated. A bearing sticking out just a fraction to far will cause binding when you tighten the case halves back together. I do not like to use a press. You can feel if the bearing is fighting you if you tap them in, and you can actually force them in crooked with a powerful press.

Thanks! How about the seals? I know the fork seals were installed dry.

Dry into the case half. I like to put a film of oil on the inside lip in case the engine sits for a while. Also makes it easier to slide whatever you installing through the seal. They will install most times just using your thumbs. If you have to tap them, I like to use the handle end of an old screwdriver and tap on the tip. The rounded end of the handle is easy on the rubber seal.

If you are trying to change the seal with the shaft sticking through it, I like to find a similar sized piece of pvc plastic pipe and gently tap them in. Do not push them in to far. Both the mag end crank seal and transmission output seal can be installed to deep. Flush with the outer case is good.

Thanks Olddogs, the bearing came out and went in very easily as per instructions. I installed the seal dry and flush on the mag side with my digits. The clutch side crank seal I used the flat side of a large socket and my vise. It seated a 1/16 to an 1/8 below the case. Hope that's right. Thanks now I'm stuck till I get another manual. I'll turn my attention to getting a rolling chassis.

I agree with the dry seal in the casing and a film of oil for the shaft.
In the late 1960s, I was a powertrain assembler for Boeing /Vertol. Helicopter drive train components. The seals were installed with an adhesive in the casting. The double lip seal was to get a bit of oil put on it. I made the mistake of not oiling the lips on the accessory gear box for the aft transmission. This consisted of about 10 seals. In the testing chamber, they all leaked because the lips burned from friction with lack of the film of oil. The boss was not happy. at least it wasn't attached to a flying helicopter at the time. I have since assembled dozens gear boxes for future employers with no seal failures.

Hello, Richard, thanks for the info for the Hodaka world it is people like you and ED and Max and others whom help to keep the newbies and some older persons on the right track. Keep up the help.

Now since you where a Aircraft eng and trans assy person, do you have any tech knowledge on installing steel screws into Almn cases, torques, depth, Power asst when screwing them and driving them into the case with a driver. I know there has to be such info because when I worked for VW in the past there was such info, available as a guide when installing steel bolts and screws into
ALMN cases. Torques is determined by the size of the bolt or screw. Thanks Bruce Young. And what is you idea on Glue versus Gasket on the Case cover.

Rick,

Would that have been H-46 drive train components? I spent a good deal of time working on and flying around on those in mid to late 70's.

Danny

Danny,

The Army trained me on UH-1 Hueys and the Chinook CH-47. I was field depot maintenance, My MOS was 67U30 Chinook field maint. Never went to Nam. Stayed state side.

While in the Army I spent 5 months at the New Cumberland Army Depot near Harrisburg, PA working with civilian mechanics doing final detailing of the Lycoming T-55 gas turbine engines. A great learning situation.
After leaving the Army in 1968, I went to work at the Boeing/Vertol plant in Eddystone, PA. There I was "re-building" swash plates, rotor hubs, engine transmissions, combining transmissions, foreword and rear transmissions. After 800 hours these devices needed to be rebuilt and the parts evaluated before rebuilding them. I also did a stint at the disassembly plant for about 3 months. That disassembly job, although not as clean as the assembly job, taught me quite a bit about how to take things apart. Spent a lot of time clipping off safety wiring. In both assembly and disassembly we used ovens to heat up housings to remove the bearings. Fun times.

Rick,
Sounds like very interesting work. My time in honed my skills to safety wire Hodaka clutch screws....among other things.

I spent a good bit of time in the UH-1N the last couple years of my tour. The helos were a little faster than the Hodaka's....but only by a small amount.

Danny

As the sheriff said in the first Rambo movie: "Where do you people come from?" Now we know.