The Hodaka Club Forum

i have a Hodaka and started looking at the vin numbers in the front. It says Oct-1971 And B-66006. I also found some numbers on the engine that were 921001-02. What do I have here?

1971 Model 93A Super Rat frame.

Thank you.

There should be an "M" at the beginning of the engine number. That would make the bike a 1971 Model 93A 100CC Super Rat. (my first race bike). Very cool. There is a nice and comprehensive serial number chart under the FAQ tab on the Srtictly Hodaka home page.

The engine numbers you found are part numbers. The engine serial number is immediately below the clutch lever on the engine.

Ed

does that take the 24mm carb? i was looking to get a rebuild kit but look like for about 15 more dollars i could get a new one. is that the way to go?

If it is indeed a 93A Super Rat it is a 24 mm See link below;

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/Hodaka-93 ... s/2173.htm

Are you saying you can get a 24 mm carb for $15.00? That seems rather cheap! They are normally over $100.00 for a new one.

It came with a 24mm Mikuni, but lots of carbs have been changed out for others. To answer the question, yes it takes a 24mm Mikuni but best to take it off the bike and measure to be sure what you have before ordering parts.

What parts do you think you need for the carb? There is little enough to "rebuild." New gasket for the float bowl, maybe a new float needle and seat. Depending on how much sand went through it, perhaps a jet needle and needle jet. But then, it may need nothing at all if everything is intact. Just because it is 43 years old doesn't guarantee the need to be rebuilt. I would inspect it closely, to be sure, but would not purchase any parts until I knew for a fact that something needed replacement. Working for four different motorcycle shops back in the 70's I never once rebuilt a carb, so I would first take a very close look at what you have. If it needs parts, compare the cost of discreet parts against the cost and contents of a rebuild "kit" then decide.

And Rick is right, a new carb runs around $170. You don't need to spend that kind of money for repair parts.

i didn't look at it very hard. just took it off to see if the throttle valve moved at all. and i didn't move. i have only took one apart. what am i looking for when i do take it apart?

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Lets seen some photos.

Ok I'll have to go to my parents and get some but I'll post a couple of everything.

If you have never taken a Mikuni apart it would be good to find a shop manual of some sort, but since my wife was able to learn to do this in a night school class on motorcycle mechanics back in the 70's it just isn't all that hard to do. However, this venue may not be the best place for a step by step on how to do it. You will need a Phillips screw driver and not much else. The pilot jet will take a narrow blade flat screw driver, the main jet a small adjustable end wrench and so on. It takes ten minutes or less to strip one to component parts. Just don't force anything. The body is aluminum or zinc, pretty soft. The brass parts are soft. Take your time.

But, if you have never looked at one before, it would be tough for you to discern good from bad. It also won't help much to just buy a new carb because they rarely come jetted correctly for your needs. Rather, they will be generically jetted the way they came from Hodaka. So you will need to learn how to take it apart anyway.

I am surprised the slide won't move. I take it this is not a running bike. If it is stuck, unscrew the top ( where the cable goes in) and put a little penetrating oil on the slide. It should free without a great deal of force. Sometimes a tiny bit of grit goes a long way toward making soft parts stick.

In Montana stuck slides are common in things that have been left outside, I soak them in mystery oil and then after a day tap the slide with a rubber hammer. They are usually stuck with corrosion. ===Clarence

ok guys i took some pics yesterday!!! http://imgur.com/a/4PmVw http://imgur.com/a/Sa02l http://imgur.com/a/QXORu

The carb is dirty on the outside to be sure but the slide looks clean, and until you take it apart, it's hard to say what condition it is in. It may work just as it is. My carb has been filthy lots of times. It a dirt bike. Clean it off, take it apart, and look inside.

The rest of the bike looks better than some we have seen, and they turned out well. Fork tubes will probably need to be replaced.

http://i.imgur.com/woNUVp9.jpg If you look at this pic you can see two fins are broken the top left one and the bottom middle one. is that a bad thing? Also one other question when cleaning the carb i have been told to use gas because it won't crack and shrink the gaskets or o-rings. Is this correct?

The broke fin won't matter, if you want just cut the rest of it off and mill it of some how clean it up and it will be almost un detected or have a custom look. I soak my carb in pine-sol.

Ok guys I took it all apart with pictures taken. I cleaning everything now. I'll post the pictures alittle later for all the see. I'm gonna need to order a new gasket. Everything went well and is moving again. I have a question about the 4 bolts to hold the head one. What should I torque them down to? And also what oil does everyone use?

There are internal passages in the carb body - make sure none of them are plugged.
Ed

Heres the before pictures. http://imgur.com/a/P1SCm

A couple of things;

1. The head torque specs have been discussed on this forum. I think the manual says 170 in/lb, but Harry Taylor disputed that and said it should be higher. I don't remember what that is.
2. The original oil recommended in the 1970s was 30 wt non-detergent, but in these modern times many different lubrications have been recommended. They range from Bellray gear oil to synthetics to ATF. I will defer to the masses, but I use synthetic ATF. I am sure if the bike is raced a more appropriate oil would be needed.

Let the recommendations begin...

Whoo aren't we talking about a 100cc engine with the small head bolts?? if we are torque should be 95 to 110 in/lb. If that is true I have never had any problems with that torque-----------Clarence

yeah taber we are talking about the cylinder head nut (m7) what about the oil capacity?

Its a 24mm Mikuni. I have 2 of them in a lot better shape just need a little cleaning.
contact me
MTRob

Your carb is a 24mm Mikuni, I have a few in alot better shape then yours. contact me
MTRob