The Hodaka Club Forum

I'm considering buying a Road Toad/Combat Wombat/Wobat. Its a Toad frame, fenders and tank. A Combat engine, and has some other parts from a Wombat. Guy says it runs great, and the pictures he has of it make it look like its in pretty good shape.

To make a long story short, what should I look for when I go take a peak at this thing this weekend. What are some common issues? What are some of the things that are almost always wrong? If any?

I've always wanted a Hodaka, and this one seems to be a decent way to get started with that. Any info in greatly appreciated.

Lots of variables to consider. One of the first things I look at, is to see if the stud on the left side of the crankcase that the rear screw of the shifter case bolts to is not broken off. It's right below the countershaft sprocket. It can be an expensive repair. Rusty fuel tanks can be a problem. I guess my advice is to inspect the usual, sprockets for wear, compression, if it starts, runs and shifts, fork seals, cables and such. Hybrids are assembled from pieces and you don't know if they used the good ones or the bad. General appearance is a factor, It shows if they cared about the project or just threw something together. Make a list of obvious things that need replaced because it can get expensive replacing vintage parts. There's my quick advice, I'm sure the Gang will mention some things I overlooked. Good luck!

Max

Sounds like the bike owned by a member on this forum who went by the name of Forrest. He has a website here:

http://www.goomer.com/honda/hodaka.html

If it is the same bike, he put a fair bit of work into making it run properly.

Brian

I ran across that website earlier while I was poking around for info. I don't think its the same guy, the bike I'm looking at is a little different than that one.

Also, thanks for the pointers on what to look for. I've bought dirtbike and all manner of things before so I know all the typical stuff, just didn't know if these had anything special, and it sounds like they do, with the little bolt/stud that breaks off. I read somewhere that the kicker wears the case out where it goes into the motor? Or is that a different itteration of Hodaka.

Personally, since this is a put together bike, from so many different sources, I would concentrate on the engine and how well it works. If it runs nicely, looks good to you, and isn't a rust bucket, it is your choice. It may not look like any one particular machine, but if you like it, that's what counts. After that, price is wide open since it isn't a restored or original, just a motorcycle, it should not be all that expensive. I don't have a target cost in mind, but I know I would not pay more than a grand for a mutt even if I liked it.

Post pictures.

I do like the way it looks, and since this is going to be a ride around in the woods bike, looks shouldn't mean much anyway.

As for the price, he's asking $700, but I haven't discussed it with him. I'm sure there is something wrong with it that will help bring down the price. Although I like to do that sort of thing in person.

Here are some pictures.

Price looks about right to me. Hard to find one any cheaper that is running. Should have plenty of power with the Combat engine.

Cool, I'm meeting up with the guy on Saturday to give the bike a once-over and a ride around. Going to try to get him down on the price a little. I'd like to pay around $500, more in my budget right now.

By the way Bill, I live in Shelby, NC. I noticed your signature said that you Raced and Modified Hodakas in Statesville, NC.

Yep. Had a shop at my house from 1968 to 1978 and modified hundreds of Hodaka's and others under the name of Cycle Performance. The local dealership there was Miller's Cycle Sales. I live in Colorado now as all my grandchildren are here. I guess I am just trying to bring back some of that fun in my old age.

I bought a bag of mixed bike! It was a 1976 Wombat Model 03 frame. It has a Model 94 bottom end & a Model 95 top end, with a Model 93 24mm carb on it. It was a tough job identifying what I had. Since I was able to tell by the frame & engine numbers that the motor wasn't original to the frame, I had a hard time deciding what to do with it.

The seller was at least the second owner. He posted it on Craig's List for $500 obo. I drove 65 miles with my truck & grandson to check it out. The owner tried starting it and it would sputter but not run. I was hesitant to take it but I talked him down to $250 & got a title for it. I've spent about $750 in new OEM parts, and about $250 in used parts on eBay.

I had to rebuild the bottom end, all new seals bearings & bushings, but the crank was OK. Put her back together and she wouldn't run right. So I pulled the head and found a cracked ring & worn piston & .40 oversized cylinder with bad, uneven wear because of the cracked ring.

I had been given a spare cylinder & piston when I bought it, along with numerous other parts & a tackle box full of carb parts. So I bought some .10 over rings & put the second cylinder & piston on the engine with new gaskets & rings.

She runs rather well now. I expect it to be around for a long time. I turned s piece of forgotten Hodaka into a dependable rider! You can too!!! ; D Victor

I see an awesome start to a project here. Great start already with the forks. Throw an 03 swing arm at it, doll it up the way you want it to look and ride on....

When you say 03 swingarm, what do you mean? I'll eventually understand all the lingo, but for now I'll need someone to explain.

Hodie models are known by their numbers - 90 (Ace 90), 92 (Ace 100), etc. an 03 is a late model Wombat.
Bob

What bobwhitman said. Will give you a little more wheelbase and Paul can set you up with some shocks that will balance out the rear to match the forks. Go for it!

Greetings

Allow me to clarify some of the previous comments about the forks. The 34mm forks in the photos are from a either a model 03 125 Wombat or from a Hodaka 250. This a good thing as they have more travel than the 30mm units that came stock on this frame. The forks being longer than stock and the rear shocks being stock,has the front end raised a bit which will result in less than optimal steering. Longer shocks would fix this problem.

Things that I would check for would include rust in the tank, cracks in the rubber intake and carb to air cleaner boot, slop in the shift shaft , rust in the magneto and condition of the seat pan.

Hope that helps

Tom

Sandrion wrote:I ran across that website earlier while I was poking around for info. I don't think its the same guy, the bike I'm looking at is a little different than that one.

Also, thanks for the pointers on what to look for. I've bought dirtbike and all manner of things before so I know all the typical stuff, just didn't know if these had anything special, and it sounds like they do, with the little bolt/stud that breaks off. I read somewhere that the kicker wears the case out where it goes into the motor? Or is that a different itteration of Hodaka.

I should say that the stud that breaks off is not a weak point but the result of a catastrophic chain derailment. It also can break the shifter case or crankcase. It is the first thing to look for when buying engines or crankcases on line. They can be repaired by clever people or replaced but all costly and time consuming. I have personally never seen a crankcase wear where the kick starter comes out. Just a little more info!

Max

Thanks for the clarification, I was wondering about that. I need all the info possible.

Well, the guy with the bike sold it out from under me. I was told I was the first caller and I had concrete plans since Monday to drive down there tomorrow. That didn't work out. So now I'm on the hunt for something else I suppose. Not too many Hodakas in this part of the country