The Hodaka Club Forum

Does anyone know the specs on this screw? I need to get one in socket head slightly longer.

Hodaka Part#_46-0660 - Magneto cover screw

Thanks....

06x60mm

It is a 6mm screw that is 60 mm long. Almost all of the Hodaka screws, bolts, etc. have the sizes in their part number. In your example 46-0660... the last 4 numbers let you know the dimensions - 6mm thread diameter by 60 mm long.

dirty_rat wrote:It is a 6mm screw that is 60 mm long. Almost all of the Hodaka screws, bolts, etc. have the sizes in their part number. In your example 46-0660... the last 4 numbers let you know the dimensions - 6mm thread diameter by 60 mm long.

Ya, what he said. Sounds better then what I said. 6x60mm

What about the thread count? (pitch)There are coarse and fine defined by another number. Is it 1.0 or 1.25?

I found these. They should meet my needs for a longer screw.

http://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Base-Tensile ... s=6mm+bolt

They are 1.0 mm thread pitch.

Most of the regular nuts, bolts and screws on the Hodaka are of the most common thread size for the fastner, example being the 4mm screws are .70mm pitch, the 6mm screws and bolts are 1.0mm pitch, the 8mm bolts and 1.25mm pitch. One of the few exceptions I have found are the 10mm shock bolts, which are a fine thread - 1.25mm pitch (normal is 1.50mm pitch). If in doubt, use a good metric thread pitch gauge.

Cool, I will order a box. I have a problem with the bottom screw journal on my old Ace. I have chased it with a tap to the bottom. Now I need a longer screw. Why are you asking these questions if you have chased it with a metric tap you might ask? I am at work and here is where I will be ordering them, he replied.
The mag cover has been modified for SHCS.

Thanks all for your help.

Cover screws have a tapered shoulder. Cap screws generally don't. Have you cut the cover to accept flat shouldered screws? I guess you don't have to, but there will be very little contact patch between screw and cover otherwise. Thought I would ask.

Be sure to get screws with the proper taper on the bottom side of the head. Anything else will require special procedures on your part. Use the proper screws and all you have to do is tighten them.

Ed

DOH! M odified for SHCS = socket head cap screws? So special procedures are already required . . . too bad, original screws worked really well.

Ed

Ironically, the Phillips head screws were invented to prevent sabotage of aircraft from the Japanese. I find that a SHCS is much more friendly. Although, one must take care as not to over torque them. Especially in aluminum.

My Ace 100 Spyder's bottom mag case screw boss got damaged many years ago when my chain broke and jammed through the case. It spit, but did not completely break the boss. Just cracked and spread. This was about 1974. I used a crazy glue type adhesive and a small hose clamp to close the spread and bond it. The clamp is still in place. The bike has been this way ever since. Recently the threads seem to have slightly striped. I will not go into details why. The reason I needed a longer screw is to use the entire depth of the hole after bottom tapping it.
I have 2 mag/shifter cases that have been modified for SHCS. So much better. But I guess to the purist, the original Phillips screws are the look they want. I take function over form anytime.

Sorry for the long explanation, but I wanted to put this to rest if this is even possible.

Helli-coil is an option, it not only restores the original thread length but also provides a much stronger than original thread, Helli-coil Sets are now much cheaper (with the onslaught of cheap Chinese manufacturing) and available via ebay.

Shane

Shunt,

Thanks, but a Helicoil is not a good option for me here. In aircraft, many aluminum casings start with a Helicoil. I know it is best way to fix this other than aluminum weld and re-drill and tap, but my garage equipment is limited. I do have a good metric drill, tap/die set. Given my meager garage, I will try the tap deeper and longer screw method first. If I have to go the Helicoil route, I will need outside help. I don't want to mess it up. Could be very painful.

Thanks again. I appreciate the advise. This forum has always been a great help to me over the past several years.

Richard,

I think you might not be talking about the same Heli-coil as Shunt. The kits now available are pretty easy to install and need nothing more that a tap and die kit and a portable drill. All that is required is to drill out the threads to a slightly larger size (drill bit is often included in the kit, if not the correct size is listed). Then the new hole is tapped with the included tap. The heli-coil insert (which looks like a threaded spring) is the inserted into the tapped hole. That's pretty much it, no special tools or experience needed.

DR,

DR, I am an old army helicopter mechanic. I know what it takes to install a Helicoil. My concern is the boss is split. There is not much meat on this particular boss on the case. if the Helicoil gets jammed because of the split, it can break the Helicoil during installation. Once a Helicoil breaks, it can be a bear to remove. Not a pleasant situation. Larger Helicoils are easily enough and I would agree this would just be a matter of drill, tap and install. 6 mm, not something I would like to attempt. My confidence in knowing my limitations is strong. But thanks, I appreciate the help. Perhaps if this longer screw idea fails, I will attempt the insert route. Lord knows, I learned a long time ago, not much that cannot be fixed if it gets screwed up. Working in a machinery manufacturing factory with limited recourses for 17 years and in the field for another 25 has taught me that.

Rick,

I agree that heli coil won't work with a split boss. Perhaps once tapped to the bottom as you have done, you can re glue the boss with JB or equivalent 24 hour epoxy and use a screw to add pressure to the boss to hold all in place while the glue sets. A little lube on the screw will make sure the screw doesn't get stuck. If 70's vintage glue worked this long, there is hope yet. The hard part would be to degrease the split.

I read the SHCS thing but didn't make the connection. Not nomenclature I am familiar with. Sorry for stating the obvious.

Socket Head Cap Screw

I modified Rick's case in my mill to take socket head screws, simply because it does not take a impact driver to remove them. That is important when far from the truck or 1000 miles into a cross country trip. I set up all my engines that way, except those bikes I restore to original specs.

Mike Perrett