The Hodaka Club Forum

Hi again folks,

I wonder if you can advise me as to how the exhaust pipe fastens to the head. From what I can tell I appear to have the correct exhaust, but all that was required to remove it, other than the frame mounts, was removal of the two springs. I see from the schematics that there should have been a gasket in there (there wasn't) and that the flange should unscrew?

Just not sure how it works. Is the nut supposed to retain the exhaust? I did order the missing gasket. When the bike was running it did leak oil from the joint...

Cheers,
RLW

Deleted in favor of my following comments.

I took a look at the diagram. If you have a 92C tor thereabout, you have a flange nut that when installed, offers a slip joint for the pipe. The gasket is between the nut and cylinder, not between pipe and nut. Nut screws on, pipe is held in place by two springs. So sounds like you have the original stuff. If you want to explore down to the gasket, you will need to unscrew the nut. If it isn't leaking, you might consider leaving it there unless you are going to strip and refinish the cylinder.

The Dirt Squirt used the same cylinder as the earlier Ace 100, but had a slip fit exhaust system. In order to make this work Hodaka had a screw on "adapter" flange that was fitted to the cylinder. This screw on "adapter" flange then accepted the slip fit exhaust, which was held in place with two springs. The Dirt Squirt parts fiche is incorrect as it shows both the earlier screw on exhaust collar (incorrect) as well as the correct adapter flange. The gasket goes between the cylinder and screw on adapter flange.

Brian

P.S. There is another small error in the Dirt Squirt parts list as it indicates an Ace 100 cylinder, which will not work unless holes are drilled in the fins to accept the exhaust springs.

EDIT: Not trying to be redundant. AZ submitted his response as I was typing mine...

Hate it when that happens.

Thank you both, it's making sense now. I hadn't planned on refurbishing the cylinder so perhaps I'll just leave the nut alone. On the other hand I do have a new gasket on its way and like I mentioned there was a pretty steady leak when the engine was running. I'll soak the neck of the nut with a penetrating oil for a couple days and see how much fun it is to unscrew.

Thanks again,
RLW

Apparently unscrewing the exhaust flange is, in fact, NOT a lot of fun. I have a large channel lock pliers and I have a bench vice but I'm not sure how best to remove the flange. Mounting the cylinder in the vice causes me concern, not wanting to damage it or clamp it too tight. And the pliers are large enough but getting a good bite on the flange is difficult. Perhaps a pipe wrench, as gross as that sounds?

RLW

Its easier to remove the nut while the engine is still in the frame in its own vice then you can apply some force with out worrying about hurting it . I have had good luck with a sharp blow with a large screw driver and a hammer the way Fred Flintstone used to do it .

Rich

racerclam wrote:Its easier to remove the nut while the engine is still in the frame in its own vice then you can apply some force with out worrying about hurting it . I have had good luck with a sharp blow with a large screw driver and a hammer the way Fred Flintstone used to do it .

Rich

Fred Flintstone . Good one Rich.

Danny

Just did a post on it where I tried three different methods with pictures. Check it on "Exhaust Nut on 68 Ace" I even learned something from it! It's on Page 2 today.--Hope this helps.

Maxie

PS--I did find the Fred Flintstone method a little crude but somewhat effective. Good one Rich.

Thanks gents, I think it does make a lot of sense waiting until I get the frame back for powder coating and can get the engine remounted. Then I'll get medieval on it.

RLW

My day was frustrating, nothing to do with the Squirt, so I needed something to take my frustration out on. Had previously soaked the threads with penetrating oil. Added some heat and two good wacks with a dull cold chisel and a BFH and off it came. Yeah, there was no gasket underneath so hence the dripping. Good to go now.

RLW