The Hodaka Club Forum

Had the 125 wombat out took it about half a mile came back and lost spark.

Check condenser and coil.

I was thinking the same thing

Just make sure the spark plug isn't whiskered. And next I would check the points, wire connections, There are simple ways to trouble shoot. =====Clarence ,

No-spark testing on a two stroke begins with the spark plug. Check for spark with a known good plug grounded to the head. If you have spark with a good plug but not the one you are running, replace the plug. If it is not the plug, check the point gap to verify that there is one. Clean the contacts with 220 W/D paper. If still no spark, check the capacitor for 0.25 to 0.27 mf +/- 10%. If the capacitor is out of spec, replace it.

Lots of folks lately have been having problems with points failing, either from the contacts coming off, or burning up. Must be some sort of Asian flu.

If your points and coil check out right, don't forget to test resistance in your plug cap and HT lead. Caps can go bad and can prevent the spark from occurring.

Arizona Shorty wrote:
Lots of folks lately have been having problems with points failing, either from the contacts coming off, or burning up. Must be some sort of Asian flu.

I had the top contact (in the pivot arm) suddenly come loose and shut the points closed. Stuck me pushing and dodging traffic in the middle of a major intersection.

So I reinstalled the original points...but the rubbing block on those isn't standing as tall as it should anymore so I still need a new set.

Lots of folks had contacts come off/loose? Points burning up is just one of those things when there's a bad condenser in the equation, but mechanical contact failure is a new mutation of the Asian Flu to me.

I was thinking more along the line of Chinese parts.

I guess it is possible. I believe that Bill and I purchase points from the same vendor. These are all made by Daiichi in Japan.All boxes are stamped "made in Japan"
Paul

Did you shut the Wombat off before it lost spark? The first thing to check (after trying a new plug) is the kill switch. I would unplug that to eliminate it as the culprit.

I would hope Japanese parts are quality. Chinese, not so much.

OK, so check the spark plug, the plug cap, the coil, the points, the condenser, the kill switch and the wiring.

And rear tire pressure.

Be careful with new points. I had a set where the nylon bushing was seized on the pivot. This caused the outer contact assembly to rotate on the nylon eventually destroying it at about the 3/4 mark in a hare scramble. It was a nice day and Hodakas push pretty easy so no big deal (except I was running in 2nd place when it happened).

Another thing to watch for is manufacturing grease or oil on the contact surface. I installed new points and couldn't get a reading on my meter when I was setting the timing. I run a piece of 1000 grit paper on the contacts and it cured the problem.

My impression is that the quality on new points is not what it used to be.

Oh yeah, and check the rear tire pressure.

Brian

Sometimes you get more advice on the forum than you need! --- How many #s on that rear?

Maxie

Air pressure varies. Helium, 49psi. Hydrogen, whatever you have nerve enough to pump in there.

I see that AZ got the last word in last night after I went to bed--Funny!

Maxie

Darrell wrote:

Arizona Shorty wrote:
Lots of folks lately have been having problems with points failing, either from the contacts coming off, or burning up. Must be some sort of Asian flu.

I had the top contact (in the pivot arm) suddenly come loose and shut the points closed. Stuck me pushing and dodging traffic in the middle of a major intersection.

So I reinstalled the original points...but the rubbing block on those isn't standing as tall as it should anymore so I still need a new set.

Lots of folks had contacts come off/loose? Points burning up is just one of those things when there's a bad condenser in the equation, but mechanical contact failure is a new mutation of the Asian Flu to me.

I soldered in the loose contact(s) with a "metal mender" type solder and all seems well so far. I suppose JB Weld would have been appropriate too.