Just a few pics to show that my Hodaka projects are in the works,just at a slow pace.They are of the Ace footpeg mod for trials.I wanted to be able to switch back to standard pegs so I could use it for trail riding or maybe even a cross country event...kind of a do it all bike like they were.Any critiques on how I,ve done it are welcome as it,s always good to learn.
The only other mods that are planned for trials are an Ace 90 exhaust (if I can find one),different bars,longer shocks and a small seat.The other pic is the Wombat frame that I just painted,but still needs a clear coat.It was red when I bought it and just didn,t look right.
Projects
Re: Projects
It looks as if the foot peg is welded to the base with a perimeter surface weld. Monitor this weld during your early tests. If you see any signs of cracking, it would be best to redo it. Now that it is welded, there is no reason not to go with what you have until something suggests you do otherwise, like a crack.
Future reference, perimeter surface welds can and do fail under stress, and a foot peg offers the most critical sort of directional stress, 90 degrees to the weld. Even with good penetration, which is hard to determine, electrical arc welding creates a focused hot zone around the weld line, which creates a stress line at the outside edge of the weld zone. This is where cracks generally originate. The weld puddle is just a relatively shallow semicircular bead that is usually far less deep into the metal than the outer bead suggests. Annealing the weld can alleviate this stress line if you have not already painted the frame and peg gusset. Take the removable peg assembly off the frame, and heat with a torch to a nice mellow orange or so,mother let it cool slowly back to room temp. This tends to realign crystals in the metal and blurs the line between weld material and base material, which reduces the tendency to create stress at the puddle margin.
For better strength, the foot peg should be through welded, that is, make a hole in the gusset that the base can pass through, bevel the edges at the weld zone, and weld it from the back side. Then you can weld it from the front. Another way to approach this, and something you may still be able to do if it isn't painted, is drill a fair sized hole from the back side, centered on the peg base. Drill about a half inch hole deep enough for the hole in the gusset to be full diameter to the drill. You will have to penetrate the base a bit, but that won't hurt. Then, rosette weld the hole using a hotter than normal setting, starting at the bottom of the hole and working outward. You are looking for penetration here. Fill the hole to above surface, then grind it back to flat so you can bolt it up cleanly.
The idea is to have weld on both sides, especially the back. Items welded this way almost never pull through and are less likely to crack and fall off. A surface weld on the outside, if it fails, can fail without warning, which will make it hard to finish a section without taking a dab.
I have found that stick welding is usually more successful in surface attachment as you have done than MIG, which often does not penetrate as deeply without running really hot amperage and a faster feed rate. Here, you are welding what looks like quarter inch material and a three quarters to an inch bar stock together. MIG has trouble burning that deep without a lot of practice, and I still get it wrong from time to time. To get good penetration from the front surface, you would have to bevel the peg base a quarter inch and weld in multiple passes, if using MIG. From the picture it appears to be a single pass, possibly with a stick.
I used to race off-road cars, and attach pints on bumpers had to be both bolted and welded, or at the least, through welded for just that reason that a surface welded attach point usually fails at the wrong moment.
Future reference, perimeter surface welds can and do fail under stress, and a foot peg offers the most critical sort of directional stress, 90 degrees to the weld. Even with good penetration, which is hard to determine, electrical arc welding creates a focused hot zone around the weld line, which creates a stress line at the outside edge of the weld zone. This is where cracks generally originate. The weld puddle is just a relatively shallow semicircular bead that is usually far less deep into the metal than the outer bead suggests. Annealing the weld can alleviate this stress line if you have not already painted the frame and peg gusset. Take the removable peg assembly off the frame, and heat with a torch to a nice mellow orange or so,mother let it cool slowly back to room temp. This tends to realign crystals in the metal and blurs the line between weld material and base material, which reduces the tendency to create stress at the puddle margin.
For better strength, the foot peg should be through welded, that is, make a hole in the gusset that the base can pass through, bevel the edges at the weld zone, and weld it from the back side. Then you can weld it from the front. Another way to approach this, and something you may still be able to do if it isn't painted, is drill a fair sized hole from the back side, centered on the peg base. Drill about a half inch hole deep enough for the hole in the gusset to be full diameter to the drill. You will have to penetrate the base a bit, but that won't hurt. Then, rosette weld the hole using a hotter than normal setting, starting at the bottom of the hole and working outward. You are looking for penetration here. Fill the hole to above surface, then grind it back to flat so you can bolt it up cleanly.
The idea is to have weld on both sides, especially the back. Items welded this way almost never pull through and are less likely to crack and fall off. A surface weld on the outside, if it fails, can fail without warning, which will make it hard to finish a section without taking a dab.
I have found that stick welding is usually more successful in surface attachment as you have done than MIG, which often does not penetrate as deeply without running really hot amperage and a faster feed rate. Here, you are welding what looks like quarter inch material and a three quarters to an inch bar stock together. MIG has trouble burning that deep without a lot of practice, and I still get it wrong from time to time. To get good penetration from the front surface, you would have to bevel the peg base a quarter inch and weld in multiple passes, if using MIG. From the picture it appears to be a single pass, possibly with a stick.
I used to race off-road cars, and attach pints on bumpers had to be both bolted and welded, or at the least, through welded for just that reason that a surface welded attach point usually fails at the wrong moment.
Re: Projects
Looks tough enough for me--you're probably not going to do any triples in the near future. I think it will be fine, just put it on your inspection list and check everything as we all should occasionally. The projects look fun! Keep us posted. What's next? 
Maxie
Maxie
Re: Projects
Good job Mac! Thanks for taking us along for the ride as you bring your projects to life. You mentioned a 90 pipe for the trials project-what engine are you gonna use?
Charlie R.
Broken Arrow, OK
Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Projects
Hey Charlie! I have been trying to call you , either your phone number has been changed or it off , Call me .
Rich
Rich
Re: Projects
Hey Bud! I have a new number. (918) 688-5498 Yeah, we have some catching up to do.
Charlie R.
Broken Arrow, OK
Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Projects
Thanks for all of the input and comments.
Shorty,I like the idea of drilling from the back side and plug welding the peg mounting lug through.The peg mounts are from an old ratty Bultaco frame that I have.They worked perfectly with the Wombat pegs.I did bevel the edges quite a bit before welding.I did use a mig that we have where I work,but it is a larger size wire so I did turn the speed down.I think just to be safe I will plug weld it through from the back side.Thanks !
Maxie,thanks for the encouragement!I will post more as it progresses.I had a parts order ready for Paul,but the dog was in need of repair and she won out on where my mad money was spent.The vet is not cheap!
Charlie,the engine is a 1970 Ace 100.I was going to go all out trials with it,but I have changed my mind and think it would be neat to maybe do a cross country in the 100 class so I want to keep that option open.I know a stock Ace probably wont be competitive with the Pentons,but it would kind of be in the spirit of vintage racing for me in that I would be racing what the average Joe would have been on in 1970.
Thanks again everyone! Mac
Shorty,I like the idea of drilling from the back side and plug welding the peg mounting lug through.The peg mounts are from an old ratty Bultaco frame that I have.They worked perfectly with the Wombat pegs.I did bevel the edges quite a bit before welding.I did use a mig that we have where I work,but it is a larger size wire so I did turn the speed down.I think just to be safe I will plug weld it through from the back side.Thanks !
Maxie,thanks for the encouragement!I will post more as it progresses.I had a parts order ready for Paul,but the dog was in need of repair and she won out on where my mad money was spent.The vet is not cheap!
Charlie,the engine is a 1970 Ace 100.I was going to go all out trials with it,but I have changed my mind and think it would be neat to maybe do a cross country in the 100 class so I want to keep that option open.I know a stock Ace probably wont be competitive with the Pentons,but it would kind of be in the spirit of vintage racing for me in that I would be racing what the average Joe would have been on in 1970.
Thanks again everyone! Mac
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