The Hodaka Club Forum

Geary. I would fix that with one of those low melt temp brazing rods & a propane torch. I bought some of those on FB & they are on the way in the mail! I think those would be better/stronger for a repair like this than with JB Weld. Victor

Progress report.
Engine assembled and installed.
Massaged 99 YZ125 exhaust test fitted.

I can't figure out how to post a video but it runs!!!!

https://youtu.be/OJ0tWDlrHrk

Link to you tube video

Sounds SWEET!! Nice job!

Geary. Is that the Yamaha 125yz pipe talked about? I’d like to see more info on how you prepared it! Victor

Victor,
A sawzall and duct tape.

I started by looking at 125's with a center port exhaust. Then went on ebay and looked for the least expensive pipe I could find.
I held the main section as close as I could get it and guessed where to make a cut. Did that twice. Then fitted it to the connector from an 03 pipe. Used a couple of the u clamp fittings to bolt to the frame. Still need to get some rubber grommets and figure out the silencer.

Looking at the seams show where I rotated the pipe.

Great job! Very crafty.

My initial impression is that this is too much of a good thing. The engine runs better in the mid range with an 03 pipe. Now I only have a couple heat cycles in so I can't tell much yet.

I'd bet there are a couple fairly straight-forward things you could tweek to dial it in once you get a silencer and finish the heat cycling process. I Have FMF Turbinecore II silencers on a couple CWs and they deliver good power, sound great, and don't require a jetting fiasco to get back right.

Thanks Matt!

So I cut the spark arrestor off the donor 03 pipe and cobbled it together. Made some improvement but not enough yet.
I am sidetracked for a bit as I am sending the shift cover to Greg for a rebuild.

During my initial test rides I had trouble finding 3rd and 4th so I sent the cover to Greg for a rebuild. Got it back and it looks great! He set it by the measurement method so I have not tried to change it.

With the cover off and tire in the air the control shaft seems to find 1st 2nd and 5th easily.
3rd is hard to locate and 4th really hard to locate.
New control shaft springs (super shifter) and ball receiver.
New ball bearings and gears. The countershaft looked good.

Still can't get third consistently or 4th at all.

I am going to try the trial and error method now.

Anyone have any ideas?

Did you have the whole shift case assembly refurbished or just the gear change shaft bushings installed. The control shaft area where the shift slider pin rides as well as the pin itself can see a lot of wear if it was never cleaned or greased. Sand is an excellent abrasive. I have seen slider pins worn almost in half. You mention the wheel off the ground, but did you rotate it while you were working the shift lever? How about the gear stack? Shims at both ends and the raised shoulder on each gear facing up? And then theres always trial and error,

Thanks Olddogs!
The entire shift case rebuilt, and wheel off the ground gently rocking back and forth.
I am doing the trial and error method now. 1/4 turn clockwise and I can engage each gear. Going to go for a quick ride.

Ride proved successful, hallelujah!
Not quite there yet but much much better.
I think I psyched myself out by adjusting every which way over and over before I sent it to Greg.
I am learning a new respect for 1/4 turn adjustments.
Time for 1/8 turn.

Its an amazing sensation when you get it totally dialed. It also underscores how clever these transmissions are.

if you wont to sell it I will buy it just let me know. Rick 615 580 2792 or [email protected] is my email

Since the shifter eccentric adjusting bolt runs through its full range of adjustment in 1/2 turn, yes - small adjustments are in order.
Ed