The Hodaka Club Forum

Just a couple of notes. Your headlight mounts don't look like the original type that came on most Hodaka's from the factory. But then you have a Dirt Squirt, which didn't come with lights from the factory. The headlight mounts you have are probably from a lighting kit sold to be used on the Dirt Squirt, and that is why the mounts are different. Most of the mounts I have seen are two piece, while the ones you have appear (in the picture at least) to be one piece, so the bushings etc. reference in the manual either weren't used or were much different. Early Hodaka's headlight mounts clamped right onto the fork tubes, while later ones (I believe starting with the 125 Wombat) had a rubber bushing that slipped over the fork tubes and then the headlight bracket clamped around the rubber bushing (probably to give the headlight a little protection from vibration).

True, dirty_rat, about the clamps & bushings. On my Ace B+ there was no room for bushings. Didn't want to go metal on metal, so I cut some inner tubing to fit between the clamps & fork tubing. Doesn't show, doesn't squeak! Works really well where there is no room for standard bushings. ; D Victor

Necessity is the father of invention. Sounds good to me.

Good info as usual, thanks.
Yes, my headlight ears are one piece.....So maybe no factory bushing then.
I have some clear tank protector film, I might use that under them.

I'm going to reuse the 62 rear sprocket that was on it when I got the bike, I'll buy a 16t front.
Anyone know if a 130 link chain will get around those?

A couple of thoughts regarding your sprockets and chain.

While the 16T countershaft sprockets are available, they often are too large for the available clearance within the shift cover. Just be aware of that... And maybe others will chime in on this issue.

I believe that the model 96 Dirt Squirt came with 14T/56T in a #423 size. This size chain is no longer available and has been replaced with #428. If you were to buy the "set" from Strictly Hodaka it would be in the #428. Looking at the sets offered, it states that the chain will be 132 links. I am guessing that 130 links would work, but could be close. The bigger question is what size is your rear sprocket? 423 or 428.

Others might have experience with running a 428 chain on a 423 sprocket, but I do not. Therefore, I am not going to say that you can't do it.

You will have a tough time keeping the revs up with a 16 tooth countershaft sprocket especially since you are going to be off-road. This would also be a bit rough on the clutch/tranny. After all, that 100cc motor is going to be doing some heavy lifting anyway. I run 14T/56T on my unmodded Dirt Squirts and they pull really quite well at that ratio. If you try the 16T countershaft sprocket and it will fit in the confines of the shift cover while running the chain, let us know how it works. Remember though, if you can get it to fit, you will have very little clearance which might increase the possibility of major case damage if you throw a chain or get debris jammed in the sprocket recess.

OK point taken then
I'll go with a new set of more standard cogs. 14/56.
I'll hang the big alloy one up as a keepsake. lol
So it seems there is a choice of 420 or 428 chain.
I'm thinking 420 would be marginally lighter, and still plenty strong enough for a 100cc.
Any thoughts here?

Also I'm using a Wombat battery box.....
Where does the rectifier and horn normally mount?

428 for sure.
I have 420 on my Ace 90 and it is really small by comparison.

The rectifier is located in the dark recess behind the battery of the battery tray. You'll see a single hole in the rear of the battery tray itself; which is where the bolt for the rectifier attaches. (photo courtesy eBay)

The horn is mounted to a tab under the tank, forward of the coil. I don't believe a DS frame has the tab so you'll have to be creative. You can place it anywhere you'd like in this instance though.

Roger

Thanks Roger!
My rectifier has a very short bolt through it, painted in the same orange as the unit?
So it actually bolts direct to the battery box? No rubber mount?

Got the kickstart back together today after a couple of near thigh stabbing incedents with a baby screwdriver
What a mongrel. Pipe is next. Taking it in for the blasting treatment before a coat of Black. After that it's basically waiting for the tyres and a heap of small parts to arrive so I can finalise a few things.

Have you cooked your pipe yet? Good idea to do before blasting/painting.

Zeek,
+1 on burning it but make sure you remove the little diffuser cone before.putting the baffle in a fire. It is aluminum and will melt. Trust me on this...
Dale

Hadn't thought about burning it.
Fire restrictions here anyway. Suppose I could run over it with an LPG torch?

Once you heat up the pipe to a good glow, the use of compressed air is also helpful to facilitate burning off the oils and carbon and will also blow the resulting ash out of the pipe. I heat the pipe until it doesn't smoke any longer.

When I BBQ'ed the second Road Toad pipe there was so much liquid or semi-liquid oil & carbon in the pipe that it turned into a flame thrower at both ends. The fire in the fire pit kept the oil/carbon mix burning & the heat caused the junk in the pipe to expand and literally "blow" out the ends of the pipe. It's a worthwhile thing to do. And your pipe will even weigh less! ; D Victor

Well if time is money, then the fenders are now priceless
Man the stainless is hard to polish.

Running into a couple of hiccups though
Speedo cable is never going to clear the light like this. And a Squirt rear fender is not made for a tailight. No where near long enough to fit the light I have at a half correct angle.
So it seems I'm either going to have to bend the Speedo bracket, relocate it or get different headlight ears.
Also probably going to need a Wombat rear fender.

Your head light ears don't look like Hodaka items to me. The Hodaka parts are definitely longer and use rubber bushings over the fork tubes. The Dirt Squirt rear fender can easily be swapped for a Wombat fender, but it may look a little odd as the Dirt Squirt uses a shorter swingarm than the Wombat. If you install the Wombat fender you will also need the rubber bushing (with hardware) that goes between the tail light and fender as well.

As mentioned earlier, you may have a lighting kit that Hodaka sold and it did not come with a speedometer, therefore the short brackets. I don't have a solution for the rear fender.

Hmmmm,
How much longer is a Wombat swingarm... roughly?

I did my Stainless fenders with some Barkeepers Helper. Works great and makes them shiny! It's designed for ststinless steel! ; D Victor

Zeek wrote:Hmmmm,
How much longer is a Wombat swingarm... roughly?

It's between 1.25" - 1.5" longer.

Would an Ace rear fender be better ?

viclioce wrote:I did my Stainless fenders with some Barkeepers Helper. Works great and makes them shiny! It's designed for ststinless steel! ; D Victor

I ended up tapping a few of the dents out, then sanding it all back and polishing....... Won't do it again

take them to a pro to polish...about 1 hour for each one and they will look like chrome

Zeek wrote:Would an Ace rear fender be better ?

The Ace fender mounting holes won't line up correctly. In my opinion, I would go with a Wombat fender, despite what I said earlier. The Dirt Squirt and Wombat frames are essentially the same, except the Wombat has a horn mount. The Wombat swingarm will bolt up to your Squirt if you ever decide to go that route, but in all honesty a Dirt Squirt with the rear wheel axle positioned at the rear of the adjustment has about the same wheel base as the Wombat with the rear axle in it's forward position.

When I was using my Dirt Squirt in Hare scrambles I used a Wombat swingarm with and 18" rear wheel and 21" front. This basically turned it into a Wombat with a 100cc motor. The reason for the wheel swap was much better tire selection and a little better handling in the rough.