The Hodaka Club Forum

Waiting SUX!

While I’m waiting for parts to arrive, I started looking at my next Ace motor build. Here’s what I figured out....

A while back, I bought 2 Ace cylinders, shipped, for $80! I also have 1 Ace head with hardware. I had 2 std. pistons, one with rings, one without, left over from the package Paul S. Sent me. I used the 3rd piston, a .020 over with rings, in the Ace B. Guess what? Both cylinders appear to be std. bore! So I only need a set of std. rings for the second cylinder/piston combo!

I have a complete Ace bottom end with rod included. It’s missing the primary gear but there is one on the other tranny which has that seized .080 piston/cylinder on it.

I also have 4 remaining wrist pins, 2 of them new! So I only need a top rod bearing and circlips and then a bottom end rebuild kit, & I’ll have a fully functional Ace 100 motor for my 5 year old granddaughter’s bike! Carb is sitting in my floor stand tool box, already built.

I’ll need an Ace seat, and an Ace B pipe. Might need a wiring harness but it can weight. Have 2 sets of wheels, 1, 17” rear tire, head light, tail light (for later when she gets her drivers license a long way down the road)A rack & tool box, and I’ll get her some new handle bars. Alan is holding an Ace tank for me as well!

Alan took a trip to Alberta this week to see his son & grandson! On his way home today, he stopped along the way and bought a 94 Wombat and 3 Aces!!! That’s right, 3 Aces!!! And he got them for a pretty amazing price!

So, we will both be busy for quite a while building/restoring! That’s what’s going on!

Oh, BTW, did I say she wants me to paint it PINK?!!! Victor

Finally got a 125 clutch from Bruce! Went thru it & filed the inside as described in the clutch blue printing Article from the Resonator.

Reassembled clutch and mounted it. It was a snug fit on the crank shaft, but it did go on! Brand new clutch nut ad well! Torqued to 250 in/lbs. Onward!!! Victor

I did the free play tonight. Finally settled in to using just the front & rear clutch cover screws. I got the free play down to a good 3/32” and tightened up the cover.

One question about the brass cable tensioner. Is it really a 9mm or did the blaster guy reduce it down from 10mm???? Victor

Almost there! I’m down to a short list before start up attempts!

1. Cables / order brake nut and pin
2. Adjust brakes
3. Bigger main jet?
4. Springs for pipe
5. Adjust handlebar height
6. Grease steering head and shifter case!!!!!
7. Put oil in tranny!!!!
8. Connect throttle cable to carb!!!

I may get these all done tomorrow!

Right now, it has a Super Combat seat on it. But the shop to which I always took my seats has re-opened. So, now I can take my 94 Wombat seat to be done & save this seat for the blue Super Combat frame!

Oh, and if anyone has a more high performance pipe they want to sell, I’d be interested! Let me know! Victor

She’s looking pretty good! This one’s gonna be a Sleeper!!! Victor

Put oil in the bike tranny. Found a small oil leak. Looks like when I was drilling out the head of a stuck screw, the bit slipped and made a slight cut into where the screw head mates with the case (see first photo).

So I slid the motor forward enough to remove the screw. I thought, “Why not try some Yamabond? It works well between the cases, & is heat resistant & oil resistant. So I took the screw and applied a ring of Yamabond around the back of the screw head and tightened the screw back up.

The screw head created a smash zone, filled in the missing case material & I wiped off the excess Yamabond. I let it dry for what is close to going on 24 hours now. I’m hoping I can put the oil in the tranny and have it not leak any more. I’ll know shortly.

Good ole #13 is gonna fight me all the way!
Victor

The tunnel (passageway?) that the case screws go through should not have any oil in it. They are separated from the transmission cavity and so no oil should be coming out from the transmission. The only way would be if the drill broke through the case into the transmission cavity or if there is another area in that screws tunnel that is leaking oil.

OK. I don’t see any hole from the outside of the case. But I’ll split the cases & check inside and look for something on the inside of the case.

Hmmm. I wonder if it’s just the drain plug not sealing well, even with a new bolt & gasket? If it leaks out of there it could run down to the lower mount plate and drip off there as well.

Thanks for both ideas! You got my brain churning again!!! Victor

So the real question remains, do you actually see oil coming out of the screw hole, or is it just accumulating in that area (low spot of engine-gravity?).

I just noticed that Ed already addressed that question on your other post.

Remember all the problems I was having with the chain rubbing my chain guard on my Combat Wombat? Well I was having the same issue with my Wombat Combat!

Seems all the fiche and exploded parts diagrams show the axle entering from the right side of the wheel with the wider spacer & the axle nut on the left. All of them.

However, when I looked in my Wombat manual today, I noticed Something different. There’s a photo of the rear wheel assembly with the rim, spokes & tire off. It shows the axle entering from the left side and the big spacer & the nut on the right side of the wheel!!! I don’t know why all the fiche/parts pictures show it opposite! Here’s a parts pic from my manual as well as the photo I observed (again) today!!! I’m turning things around! Even the fiche pic of the rear wheel looks the same on Terry’s website. Maybe this needs to be corrected for the future?

With this change, my chain won’t rub on my chain guard, my rear brake lever won’t bind with the frame and my tire will probably be finally centered under my rear fender!!! Victor

Everything is changed out. Now everything lines up, the chain doesn’t rub on the chain guard & the chain guide actually fits in place properly! Amazing how a manual photo shows everything opposite of the exploded views/parts diagrams & that’s the only one which is correct. Victor

Finally got fuel thru the carb to the motor! She fired up and ran! Needs an idle adjustment, to lower the idle. Then I can put the seat back on & take her for a spin!!! Victor

Damn! This reeded Combat Wombat Motor SCREAMS!!! I dropped the main jet from a 180 to a 170 because of the 1.5 slide instead of a 2.0 slide in it.

Took her around the block a few times. When I shifted to 2nd gear and rolled the throttle wide open, the front wheel would ‘float’ lightly off the road until I backed off! Did the same in 3rd & 4th gears too!!! This bike is a grand ride! Super Combat rear shocks help hold her down, but if I open the throttle too quickly, up goes the front wheel! Without trying!!! Yeehaw!!! Victor

Nice clean Job . I`ve enjoyed the build

Well here she is! Waiting for throttle pieces, carb needle & and a final fine tuning. But this is my Wombat Combat! Bictor

wow very nice, well done....albert

Carb parts came. Now have correct needle, 2.0 slide, 180 main, all stock components for a Model 03 Carb! Test drive today ASCI finished at 10:10 on last night. Victor