. . . as I drifted off to sleep last night, it dawned on me that full bore (no pun intended), in depth "support" may be needed for wgmack. So guys, let's start a meeting. Repeat after me.
"Hello, my name is Bullfrog - and I'm a Hodaka-holic." Ok. Your turn.
Hi, his name is Bullfrog and has been with and around Hodaka's from the beginning. Me i'm thrownchain and although a recent convert to Hodaka's and have learned a lot from the people here.
"Hello, my name is Bullfrog - and I'm a Hodaka-holic." Ok. Your turn"
Hmm maybe I'm not following directions quite right.
Hello, my name is Geary - and yeah I might be a Hodaka-holic. I had a friend with an Ace 90 then saw the first SC in central California. The hook was set. Problem was I never saw another one until about 4 years ago when I found a relic under a tree. Now I have the SC, two 03's, an 02, a CW, and an Ace 100 on the way. However I still have more Huskies than Hoodies so maybe I'm an H-aholic.
Lots of good advice available here. Soak it all in but use what you want. We all get excited when someone new gets bitten by the Hodaka bug. So some basic info any shop will need. Your bike started at 50 millimeters standard bore. Damage to you liner means you now have 4 options left. Bore to 50.25 mm, 50.5 mm, 50.75 mm or "last over" 51.00 mm. Your machinist will have to "guess" at which oversize will clean up the damage, since trial and error by buying the next oversize piston gets pricey. If he decides even 1 mm wont clean it up, you are cylinder shopping. 51.5 and even 52 mm pistons used to be available, but were not popular. No other generic or other brands pistons will work. If you have holes drilled in the side of your piston, its been reed valve modified. This was VERY popular in the day and many Super Rats with this mod are out there. Research, research and research some more. These things were like Legos, many parts and pieces interchange.
Well everyone I have found some things out....... turns out it's not a super rat cylinder I'm guessing this because it only has 2 studs that hold on the intake.... then I seen the piston has a 40 on the top of it which I'm guessing that this means it was bored .04 over and this cylinder is shot because the rings left some serious grooves in it so with all that being said new options? Look for a new jug?
From what I can see, you definitely have a Super Rat frame. The forks indicate it is an A or B. Someone has modified the swingarm to make it a little longer which was a common mod, and the shocks are not stock. The front wheel looks like it could be from a Road Toad. Curious to see what exhaust came with it.
On the right side of the motor, look at the inner case half, inboard of the clutch arm, there should be a number stamped in the case. There will be a letter first then a 4 or 5 digit number. This will tell you a lot . If it has an "M" it is a rat motor, if it is "P" it a stock ace motor. ( according to Bruce's I.D. Chart).
Also look at the badge on the front of the steering head. It will either say competition motorcycle intended for off-road use only or that the motorcycle is compliant with all required street legal equipment at the time of manufacture. That will give you quick information of the frame model.
Can clearly see the “B” on the frame tag if you zoom in. Since it does not have the reinforced gussets, it’s either a 93 or 93A. If the handlebars are correct, it is more likely a 93.
Unfortunately, the engine is not a Super Rat engine. ALL Super Rat engines had the wide cylinder deck. This one clearly does not. However, you can use an Ace 100 bottom end with a Super Rat top end and still get the same performance.
I rescued a very early Super Rat Model 93, 3 or 4 years ago. It's serial number placed it as the 205th SR that rolled off the line. The engine number was correct for it's age and appropriately numbered to belong to the 205th SR. It's manufacture date was Aug 1969, if I remember right. It had a wide cylinder deck so I assume they all did. That bike lives in Texas now.
I haven't seen an M-code engine with the small cylinder deck, but I think Clarence might know if they exist. He is quite knowledgeable. I suppose the only way to really tell is to determine the serial number on the engine. I tried to look but couldn't tell. If it is stamped M-XXXX, (should be only 4 digits), then I am mistaken. I would still claim that the SR engines had a wide deck.. but I have been wrong before too..
The first Rat engine was M1001. I just looked at several rat engines in the shop that have the narrow deck. My data shows the model 93 super rat frame starting with B37211 and the beginning number for the 93A B53113. some of my data is a few numbers off of this but close. -------Clarence
The width of the case the cylinder sits on, 1/8 on the early super rat and ace 100. The width on the later engines is about 1/2 inches, I used the term because that is how it was referred to in the post. ------------------- Clarence
The change in the cylinder "deck" width came about when Hodaka was about to come out with the 125. They modified the casting of the cases so with the correct machining, they could be used for either the 100 engines or the 125 engines (depending on how they were machined). So, the change resulted in later model Ace 100 models and Super Rat model 93's coming with the wider cylinder deck.
1971. Hodaka cast both styles that year. On the Super Rat they also made 2 different Primary Gears that year. One was 11mm wide and the other was 13.5mm wide. Both are 63 teeth. My Pet Rat came from the Factory with the Small Deck Cases and the 13.5mm wide 63 Teeth Primary Gear. Date of Manufacture: September 1971. Joe Ormonde.
. . . as I drifted off to sleep last night, it dawned on me that full bore (no pun intended), in depth "support" may be needed for wgmack. So guys, let's start a meeting. Repeat after me.
