The Hodaka Club Forum

So there's evidence of the crank turning inside the inner race?
Ed

That's what it looks like to me. There's a discoloration of the crank weight on the left side, facing the seized bearing, which looks like it heated the oil and baked it on. The right side is very clean and not dis-colored like the left side. Not a lot of scratching, and the crank shaft surface does not look bad, so I'm guessing it heated up and got noisy and was shut down and never used again. Even the inside of the crank bearing race does not look damaged. So I can't say I'm 100% sure. Just saying that's what it looks like it could have been. ; D Victor

Remember, I've never ridden or started this motor, and it's the first time I've opened the cases. I have 2 speedos for the two frames I got. One has only 700 miles on it, the other has around 1700. The cylinder was given to me already bored to the second oversize. So I don't know if there was a seizing of the top end or not. No history there.

The PO was a Hodaka racer and I'm guessing he ended up with the two RTs from someone else who gave them up for gone. He raced his Super Rat until he broke his leg at the age of 70. He's 75 now and still rides in the mountains but doesn't race any more.

I wish I could have talked him out of that Super Rat! He promised it to someone from Montana, who never came for the bike and decided shipping it from Southern Colorado to Montana was too expensive! He says he'll give the Montana guy a little more time and if the guy doesn't show up he will call me to come get the Super Rat! ; D Victor

OK. Someone answer me this. How is it that I pulled this rear fender off THIS frame and everything lined up? And now that it's been painted I can't get the holes to line up with the frame tabs. What gives? Is this a moon gravity thing like when you dig a hole at low tide and refill the hole at high tide and all the dirt won't go back in or what? The fender is hitting the bracing behind the battery box and I can't get more than 3/4 of the holes on the tab at the back of the frame tab to line up with the holes in the fender!!! I even took a bigger drill bit than the hole and wallowed it out a bit to try and make it line up. Don't want to do too much more or the bolt head will slip through it!

Suggestions?!?!?! ; / Victor

How many coats of paint?

Its called jinx. Start with your bolts long just catch a thread or two. Meditate, pray a little, get rough tough and mean. Don't tighten any of the bolts until they are all started. It's about time you experience what happens to the rest of us. Clarence

Hah! I damned near gave up. Funky OEM bolts! Anyway here's a pic. The front fender doesn't match color wize. I'm going to see if I can find a Krylon Fusion for plastic that comes closer and paint it. ; D Victor

Is the Road Toad tail light the same as or different than the Ace tail light??? The holes don't match up with the one I was given. It looks identical to the one on my B+. ; D Victor

No it's NOT! Darn!!! I thought I had the wrong unit! But I'll check with the PO & see if he has it! Shuckins! ; D Victor

PS: Clarence your jinx is working!!!

Got my bottom end rebuild kit sans bearings. I'm going to check if they have bearings locally. For some reason, I thought the kit I ordered has bearings in it but it doesn't.

Did a little more work today. Here's another pic! ; D Victor

Been working sporadically on smaller stuff. Just waiting for bearings to arrive!

Found the lower chain guard today. Soaked, scraped, wire brushed and sanded it. Then sprayed it black again. Just put it on. Chain guard assembly is now complete!

Now I wish my son in law would get the tire mounting machine he was given for Xmas mounted on the floor so we could use it!
; D Victor

Decided to get the 50 year badging set for the Road Toad! I decided that touch of red is really going to jump out against that Toad Green paint!

Does anyone know if they have adhesive on the back? ; D Victor

They do not have adhesive on them. Most people recommend clear silicone. That is what I have used on three restores and they are still on.

Thank you Bill! I have some of that. I'll apply it and tape them in place over night. ; D Victor

Got the cases split. Removed the bearings on the left side. Can't pull the clips off the right side. My circlip pliers aren't big enough.

Installed the left rear bearing. Then I installed the left front crank bearing and broke the case. Bought another bottom end on eBay for $85.00. Will wait for it to arrive. Getting bummed out.

I split the second tyranny and the crank was rusted into place on the left half. Hoping the PB Blaster works to free it up. ; / Victor

May we ask how you broke the case installing a bearing?

Those big C clips are tough. I found with a little file work on my needle nose pliers that they will fit the holes. They are a lot stronger/tougher than regular snap ring pliers and will give you the leverage you need to get these puppies out.

I always heat the case bearing area up with a heat gun/propane torch and keep the bearings in the freezer before installing them. The trick is to practice your moves and have everything set. You have to work fast to take advantage of the extra clearance expanding the case and shrinking the bearing gives you.

Yeah. I was using a propane torch. It was working well. Just forgot to put something like a block of wood under the bearing space to absorb impact. It was just that one last tap... : / Victor

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Arizona Shorty wrote:May we ask how you broke the case installing a bearing?

The bearing was a tight fit. I didn't keep the case warm enough. It kept cooling off between hammer blows. Gave it one last thump without reheating and "crack," the seal side blew out. : / Victor

Greetings Victor

Just curious. Why is there is a snap ring on top of the crank bearing?

Tom

I am sure Victor knows but I will jump in and answer. (Just to confirm that the snap ring talked about is on the right side bearing. The broken case was on the left side.) The clutch tightens up against the right side of the right bearing and therefore the bearing is squeezed between the crank and the clutch. So the bearing is more or less supporting the alignment of the whole assembly. With all the strain on the gears and clutch the bearing could start moving back and forth if it were not tied in the case with the snap ring.

Bill

In this case(no pun intended) the snap ring is in the left/magneto side where it does not belong. I was just wondering if Victor had tried to install the bearing with the snap ring under it which would prevent the bearing from fully seating.

Tom

I guess Victor will have to straighten us out but there is no snap ring in the left case. See #13 in the schematic: http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/Parts-List-B-s/2126.htm

That is the first one that ever broke on the left side that I am aware of. Victor gets more done in a hour than I can in a week. ----------Clarence

I agree with Clarence that Victor does get a lot done in a hurry!! I have been scratching my head looking at the photo. Tom is right. There should be no snap rings outboard of the crank bearings on either side. The bearings should seat completely against the lip on the outside of the bearing seat in the case on both sides. Having a snap ring in that location would explain why the bearing wouldn't seat properly. The right side should have a snap ring inside of the fully seated bearing between it and the right side crank seal. As Bill and others have said the left side should have no snap ring. Good luck Victor! I enjoy reading about your adventures!