shifting Adjustment

[Bullfrog]

Jay's points are right on the mark -- though I would differ with the final comment.

The new "space age" springs are designed for, and work best with, the original control shaft.

Ed

[Bullfrog]

PS: I should have mentioned that the new "space age" springs are an improvement when used with either control shaft and can be used with either without problems. (There is just a teensy-weensy function factor which can be optimized by using the original control shaft and ball receiver - NO washers, NO spring cups - NO.)

Ed

[Dale]

Ed, Would it be correct to say that the adjustment of the shifter mechanism and all of the other issues described in this posting would apply to not only the model 94 Wombat, but virtually all models? I know that there are a few parts that are different between certain models, but overall, the functionality and the adjustment is the same for all models. I just am looking for confirmation and/or correction here...
Thanks,
Dale

[Bullfrog]

Yup, you've got it Dale.

Ed

[DGardner]

This shifting adjustment looks like a hot topic. Thanks again for all the reply's I think it will help a bunch. DG

[pungo]

Bookmark worthy no doubt, great info.

[RESTOREACE100]

My problem is not with shifting to the proper gear , but having problem getting the bike to shift into neutral . I tried the adjusting by trial and error method and sort of made it a tiny bit easier - Now occiasionally I can find neutral . The problem seems to be much more an issue when the motor is running . The clutch is adjusted properly and shifts into each gear properly . However when I want to come to a stop and find neutral it usually ends up with me pushing the kill button then switching to neutral with motor not running .
ANy advice ? The measurement method in the manual sure could use a picture . Not sure if this is what I need to do .

[hodakamax]

It sounds as if the problem is related to the clutch not fully disengaging which could be caused by a couple of things in the clutch assembly. Things like a worn clutch cage or more likely the clutch pinion bushing is the culprit. My guess, let's see what the Gang thinks.

Max

[Bullfrog]

I agree, it sounds like you have a clutch drag issue.

Try this for a measure of confirmation on the diagnosis. Try to find neutral while you are still rolling. Even with clutch drag issues, it is almost always easier to find neutral BEFORE coming to a complete stop. So give that technique several tries and report the results, OK? Then we'll come up with our next thoughts.

OH! It would probably be good to check . . . how much freeplay do you have at the end of the clutch lever on the handle bar? You need some freeplay there . . . but not a lot. If you have LOTS of freeplay there, you are using up most of your clutch actuation movement taking up freeplay - and very little movement is left to actually disengage the clutch. So, report on that too - OK?

Ed

[bchappy]

Has been my experience with most Hodakas I have had that they are all hard to get in neutral after you have stopped. Maybe they have all had a little clutch drag. Neutral is in between low and second and it seems to just jump all the way across neutral to the other gear.

[hodakamax]

Well, It seems Max, Ed and Bill all are on the same page. I too have learned to find neutral before coming to a stop. It seems like all Hodakas (and other brands) have a slight clutch drag but getting the clutch back to specs will always help and the clutch pinion bushing is still a suspect. If it is worn or compressed in length it can cause additional drag. If the bike lurches, jumps or clunks badly when shifting from neutral to low at a stop, you have excessive clutch drag.

Maxie

[RESTOREACE100]

Thanks to everyone for the comments relating to clutch drag .It may be a while before I can report back as the bike is under other repairs , but once I get going again will be sure to report back . I currently have the bike with the magneto cover off for replacing the points . I have slow leak in the float bowl gasket area and need to remove the carb to fix . Would like to replace the fuel inlet valve in the float chamber , but they don't appear to be available for the 20 mm carb . Any ideas would be appreciated . Thanks again .

[Dale]

Regarding the float valve, have you called both Strictly Hodaka and Hodaka-Parts Inc? If neither have them, you might try Bruce Young at Hodaka Parts in Idaho, to source a good used one. You can also try to match the part with a new replacement outside of the Hodaka world. They are out there, but buyer beware and getting the exact size might be tricky. Search for VM20 valve and seat.
Dale

[olddogs]

There should be no fuel at the bowl gasket between it and the carb body when the bike is sitting, unless the kickstand is allowing it to lean to far over. I have found tiny pin hole leaks in the bowl itself on bikes that have sat or had corroded float bowls when I got them. They can be sneaky. The bowl looks great, cleans up good, but seeps fuel when your not looking.