The Hodaka Club Forum

Joe. I had some trouble with this wire. It was well stripped back. But I had issues with the solder sticking to it to tin it. I ended up twisting all the wires together and soldering them all together with a rather large ball of solder and then wrapped it with electrical tape. Should I consider heating the solder and separating the wires to reinspect the coil wire? Victor

I would. I would start with a bare condenser and go from there. I use a Dremel with a sanding drum on the Primary Coil wire. If it won`t Tin it`s still not clean. Joe.

was flux part of the soldering process ? and how about when i put the wire on the points in the wrong spot very frustrating two weeks in my life, worth a quick look maybe...albert

Definitely worth checking out. Getting that layer off is crucial to a good solder joint. The other wires could be making the bond. When I helped a friend wire guitars. I got in the habit of doing this to the pick ups because they had a layer of lacquer on them.

OK. I’m going to pull the solder joint apart for the 3rd time. I’ll try it sometime tomorrow & report back. IF that’s what it is, I’ll be extremely relieved! Victor

Sorry victor that is one glob of solder. Type in (how to solder wires), on the internet there will be several examples that will give good advice. ----------------- Clarence

I know how to solder. It’s a tight space & even with tinned wires I had a difficult time with it. A 3rd hand would have helped. Gee. Want to come over & do it for me? Victor

I would really really like to help. I probably won't head to Arizona until January and you will be on to new projects by then. How is the combat running, I sure like that the combat wombat. -------------- Clarence

I’m not in Arizona. I’m in New Mexico. You know, between Arizona & the Texas Panhandle? The 48th State?

The problem I experienced was not having any way to hold the 4 wires together, because they are all so short and very little room there to work. Victor

Took it all apart, removing all solder except the remaining tinning. Redid the connections using a small alligator clip to hold wires together as I went. Still nada!

Called Dan Cooke. Found out I had the points wire on the wrong side of the insulator. Changed it. Still nothing.

Tried using a second condenser, hoping it was just a bad new condenser. Same result, NADA!!!!

Ordered a new multi-meter. One with a tone for continuity. Wondering if it would be a break in either the black or blue wires from stator to spark plug coil? My meter is one of those Harbor Freight red ones. It gives a .1 display for continuity, I guess, because when I set it for continuity and just touch the probes together, that’s what I get, a .1.

I may try using a completely different stator. I think I have one spare. God only knows if that will solve the problem. I’ve NEVER had electrical issues this mysterious!!!

And yes, the ignition switch is still disconnected.... Victor

Rooting for you. As it so happens, I had my b+ project fired up for the first time last night. I was so pumped. It was late and in my house so I retired for the night. Today nothing, no spark. Absolutely did nothing but turn the key. I reset the points, same. Had to walk away and do some other things.

I’m going to pull the entire stator assembly from this bike and try a different one. Maybe that will eliminate whatever problem I’m experiencing. I believe I have a spare, and at this point, it certainly can’t hurt! Lord only knows what’s wrong. Maybe a break in the exciter coil which I can’t see??? Victor

Well, I think I found my spark problem! And these were brand new! Now to order more.... Victor

Lovely! Just Super Glue the Rubbing Block back on and FIRE IT UP! Joe.

Guess that’s where I’ll look next! Where did you get these?

A spare set u had for another bike. Victor

Joe I dont even know where the rubbing block went. I don’t even think epoxy will work for this one! Victor

Before you put the Flywheel on, rotate the Crank so that the key is facing down. That way the lobe on the Flywheel is at the lowest point. The only way that rubbing block broke off is that the Points were defective or the lobe was on the high side and broke it when you put the Flywheel on. The edge of the lobe should be rounded off to let the flywheel slide on without catching the rubbing block. Check your flywheel . It may not be rounded off. Joe.

seeing the points open and close will tell you things are working. Points that won't open will not will not assist the creation of spark. There are easy tests to check all of this, in very little time. ------------Clarence

My question is, how was the points gap set at .013 (as noted in very first post) if there was no rubbing block to begin with?

I dont know exactly when the rubbing block broke, but it was AFTER the gapping of the points. Victor

New points in! Now to go to mailbox & find new condenser. Victor

I Have Spark!!!

It took a little bit of manipulating the Kawasaki condenser to make it fit, mainly drilling and filing the mount hole for the screw. But, I put things together & I got BIG Spark on my new plug with my rebuilt coil!!!

Now I can put things back together, & add oil & fuel and give her a test go, after some start up, warm up & cool down sessions.

Man, I’ve never seen so many things go wrong at once, but Success At Last!!! Victor

that spark is one nice thing to see alright...

I was getting ready to send you a Stator Plate with a new OEM Condenser and Daiichi Race Points! Now I can let it gather more dust. Joe.