The Hodaka Club Forum

Decided to go the Muriatic Acid route. Bought a gallon, mixed 8 oz into 2 gal of water in the tank. It’s clearing slowly but surely! Went with a 1/15 dilution do it wouldn’t be too strong. Pics to follow! Victor

The 1/15 mix wasn’t working Very quickly, so I upped the dosage to about 1/4. It’s eorking faster now. The tank is actually getting very warm to the touch! Victor

Looks like the Muriatic Acid at 1/4 did the trick!!!

I’ll keep an in line fuel filter on it, but the whole inside of the tank looks like the part of the tunnel seen here!!! Yeay!!! Victor

How about electrolysis. I did my tank with vinegar and then finished with electrolysis it came out very clean. Then I only put a quart or so of mix in and ran it for awhile then before it all ran out I dumped that out no problems since. One more thing if you are not using the tank right away I spayed a whole can of wd40 in the tank and coated it by rolling it around and it sat for 4 months and stayed rust free and cleaned......Albert

I coated the inside with 2 stroke oil. I figured I add extra oil for break in & it won’t be long now before I’m finished assembling the motor. And it will give me a little extra oil for the premix on break in. Victor

25 percent solution of Muratic acid is pretty agressive.

I'd be chicken to go that high.

Your tank got warm because the hydrochloric was reacting with the iron oxide & probably the steel itself.

I trust you gave that tank a "real good" rinse.

Yup! A real good rinse and then mixed about a cup of baking soda with warm water, dumped it in to neutralize the acid! Shook the tank, inverted & shook again, flipped it back over & shook some more. Then poured out the water & soda mixture & rinsed it all out. The used my compressor to blow it dry & coated with Yamaha 2R. Victor

And today I mounted both chain guards & the tank! Victor

Taking the seat to get re-upholstered today. He can do that while I build the motor. Going to see if he can salvage the rear piece with the “HODAKA” on it.

He said it would be ready Friday. $80.00. Victor

Vic, another method to consider is electrolysis. I did it on one of my tanks and it worked pretty good. Greg Floren wrote up a good how to. You need Arm and Hammer washing soda, a 12v battery, some wire, and a metal anode.

Crappy picture, but you get the drift. The centering job is a little sketch, but the concept is doable.

Got a few more things done this afternoon! Tank is mounted, put the grips, perches & levers back on, added the front brake cable and the front number plate & mount & the rear mud apron. She’s almost ready to have the motor dropped in!!! Victor

The footpeg mount looks like it is on backwards.

I think I put them back on the same way I took them off. Got any pics for reference? Victor

OK, I looked at the photos on Terry’s website & it looks like your right. But, I may leave them that way, unless it interferes with the motor, because my feet aren’t large & I reach the brake pedal easily! Victor

Slide the seat back a foot and mount some Harley bars up on the frame. The foot pegs spring back in case you hit something. But we know you are joking. -------------Clarence

OK! You busted me! Just wanted to see who would make a silly remark! Victor