The Hodaka Club Forum

Ok I'll check all that out I do know that it has 4 studs holding the jug on

Sorry I misread what you wrote about the intake flange I'll check that out thanks!!

And is the 10,20,30,40 mean that its bored. 01.02 .03 04. Over sized?

Yes it does.

You're not going to do this cheap if you expect it be right. Spend the money and you'll a get longer lasting motor.

I mean if I send it out somewhere all there gonna do is measure it and bore it out to the max .04 and I'm pretty sure that I have the standard piston not 100% but I'll find out this evening so if I do have the standard piston size why cant I find out what a .02 oversized piston measures and have a good machine shop bore it for me? I really appreciate all the information that you guys have provided

If you send it to a Hodaka shop, they won't bore it any farther than it actually needs to go, they understand that to give maximum life it has to be able to be bored a couple of times. Unless there is a gouge in the cylinder, no competent shop would jump to going 4th over.

See my previous post regarding what I would do in your case.

You've said that you think the existing bore is Standard . . . and then mention a plan to purchase a .020" oversize piston so you can have it bored locally. That seems sort of like "jumping" to 20 thousandths oversize in order to stay local. If you send it to a Hodaka expert, he will CERTAINLY see if the bore cleans up at 10 thousandths oversize AND he'll have the piston on hand to finish the bore job at the proper clearance for that exact piston. If he has to go to "20 over", he'll have the piston for that (and set the clearance properly for THAT piston). No respectable "bore man" would jump to "40 over" from standard . . . that is a lot more boring to do for no more revenue on the bill. (not to mention the wasted "life stages" of the cylinder).

Ed

Wgmack,
I think what hasn't been explained clearly enough is that when a cylinder is bored to an oversize it's not bored to a nominal number. It is bored to match an actual piston with the proper clearance. Pistons of a nominal size vary slightly. When these engines were originally assembled the original bore was matched to a piston that gave the appropriate clearance. Some of the cylinders even have a number stamped on top which was used in assembly to choose the correct piston for that cylinder What I'm trying to say is that you can't just take the cylinder to a machinist and say bore it to XXXmm. They have to have the piston in hand to bore the cylinder to the proper spec. I hope this helps a little.

Ok that makes more since I thought that they only had certain hodaka pistons for exact sizes if you get what I'm saying

I guess I'm just not very good at explaining things

I do get what you are and were saying and unfortunately as reasonable as it seems... it's a misconception... You wouldn't automatically know these things and that's what is so great about this group. I learn something here every day and I've been doing this for over 50 years! There's a lot of collective knowledge here!

do they make certain size hodaka pistons specifically for this bike? Lol

What getting out of all this is that the only reason I should send it to hodaka is because they have the 4 different size pistons on hand? Lol

No, not the only reason - but a BIG one.
-- You'll KNOW the right piston is being used. (as opposed to you internet searching for what may or may not be the right piston and which may or may not be the right size . . . and possibly having to purchase a second piston . . . and what about rings? . . . ditto piston pin and small end bearing)
-- The Hodaka expert already KNOWS the proper clearance to set up for your cylinder and piston (your local guy may be EXCELLANT, but he may guess based on his vast experience as to what the clearance should be)
-- You've been given a dollar estimate for getting the job done (though it would be best to get an actual quote from one of the Hodaka experts) and then compare that what you can do by purchasing parts on your own and going to the local bore shop) I think you might find that you won't save any money on your own - especially if there is any "value" placed on time spent searching for parts and driving to the local shop, etc.
-- While your relative lack of experience with this situation would seem to make going to a Hodaka expert all that more important . . . don't forget that I've been working on Hodaka Motorcycles since 1971 and I send my cylinders to a Hodaka expert for boring.
Ed

Well I really do appreciate everyone's help

To expand on the piston question, there are specific pistons for specific models. Providing you have the correct cylinder ( which a Hodaka specialist would know) you'll want the correct piston to go with it, in the correct oversize.

Just for giggles have you cross referenced the frame and motor numbers to verify you have what you think you have?

No I have not moral of the story here is everyone in this group is going to hate me because bottom line is I'm not going to send this thing out. I understand that I'll get the best results by doing it that way but that's not what I wanna do or I'm going to do I didn't join this website and create a topic just to be told to send it away lol I hope no one gets hard feelings about this but maybe look at my problem without me sending it out as a option and then tell me what I should do lol or dont it's all in y'alls hands thanks!!!

well i dont hate you in fact i really appreciate that you brought this up. i have a burned up basket case ace 100 b+ that had a stuck piston in it and needs to be gone over i thought of bringing it to a "guy" that works on vintage snowmobiles and is pretty sharp i hear, but after reading this post ive come to the conclusion that it will be cheaper in the long run to send it to a hodaka specialaist and have it done right the first time thanks again....albert

No problem lol

Wgmack,
There are no hurt feelings here. I have come to know and respect all the guys who have responded here but ultimately it"s your bike and your choice. You'll be fine with your decision. Take your time and enjoy the journey. We'll all be here if you have any questions. Have fun with it and let us know how it progresses.

I think everyone is just trying to save you unnecessary expense, frustration, and an unreliable top end. While in many instances free advice is worth every penny, when it comes from people who have worked for 50+ years perfecting the performance of the Hodaka motor, that "free advice" is worth its weight in gold. Unfortunately, no one here can give you any specific piston/bore advice because we don't even know what you have or if the top end is even original equipment for the bike. There are significant differences in the cylinder, bore tolerances, ring configuration, and head when comparing the Ace 100 and Super Rat motors which, on the outside, look the same. That's the conundrum a Hodaka expert would be able to sort out immediately and get you back in business with a perfect top end.

Wgmack, I'm a relative newbie here. Been a member for awhile but just this year started actually working on my projects. I've been fortunate to have met a couple people on here in person and had a few online conversations. I think everyone will help you with any questions you may have and give you their best advice.
There are many ways to get there. I am looking forward to following your progress. And we're all glad to see another person interested in Hodakas.

OK then. I get it. You are currently of the mind set that it is the journey that interests you more than the destination. I can't imagine any of us on this board will be upset with your decision. In fact, I'm sure that support as you continue on the journey will be excellent.

So now, photos and measurements would help us do a "long distance diagnosis/identification" on what cylinder you actually have. Do you have 2 studs or 4 studs holding the intake manifold to the cylinder? What is the measurement from the top of the exhaust port to the head gasket surface? Is the cylinder piston port induction . . . or has it been modified for reed valve?

Ed