The Hodaka Club Forum

Yea like I'll do the dishes forever. You are headed for great fun. Clarence

Barter = the exchange of goods or services for other goods or services without using money. As in "If you will let me get a motorcycle license, I will do the dishes forever" .

Or you could trade the Honda for mechanical work done on or to your bike. The bike you're not gonna use is as good as cash to someone who could use it. Something to think about. You could get stuff done and free up some space at the same time.

Looking at the pictures you posted I can see that it is not a super rat engine but just a Ace 100 that has been reed valved . The super rat would have 4 studs to mount the intake manifold yours has 2 also can see it has a standard head which is low compression and has smaller cooling fins than the rat would have.

Rich

Rich it is a very early reed block, it could be hooked up to the 91xxxx cylinder ace 90 racing and a shaved head, as uncle knew what he was doing. It could run very well even better than a stock rat. Just thoughts . -------------Clarence

He seems to have 4 or 5 motors from the looks of it. Even an air conditioner pump mixed in for good measure.

I dont know what happened but my post didnt post from earlier but I said the picture of your engine tells me that it is not a super rat engine but its a ace 100 thar has been reed valved . A super rat intake manifold had 4 studs to mount yours has only 2 also that is a ace head a rat head hsa larger cooling fins and is high compression.

Rich

Your post is there.

I see it now ha ha and more Ha!

This is the outlet on my super rat motor I guess for the magneto. How am I suppose to hook this up dirt squirt wiring harness? Am I suppose to have an adapter?

I also have another issue. I bolted the motor on no problem but when I kick the motor over its hitting the frame.

If you have multiple kick levers see if you have one that's longer to move the lever outside the frame.

Ok thanks , I've got 4 or 5 I think and I've notice that some are shaped different

The super rat was a very simple bike with just 2 wires needed to make it run. A 3rd wire is used to attach a kill button to "kill" the spark so the engine can be stopped once started. These wires only need to go to the ignition coil. The late model dirt squirt can be stripped down to a simpler level like the super rat was. What you are being thrown by is the wiring harness that was included on the squirt in case an owner wanted to install a lighting kit. If you have spare coils look for one with a matching plug. None of the other dirt squirt wires will be needed. Be sure to check that you have made plans for how to stop the engine once running. A kill button or switch should be figured out before attempting to start it. Hate to see you blow it up if something goes wrong on start up.

Thank you! The wiring harness of the super rat is on my super rat frame. Can I put it on the dirt squirt and make it work? I dont have the super rat coil tho.

Rylan I will send you a coil, the other generous boys usually beat me to this. Do you have the coil bracket? --------------Clarence

Your dirt squirt coil will work. Just match the 2 wires from the coil to the 2 wires coming out of the engine case and either put new terminals on or cut and twist the wires and tape them, depending on your skill level. if it doesnt spark one way, try switching them. Once you have spark to the plug, the rest gets easier.

Thank you ! Clarence if you would send me a coil for my motor I would really appreciate that

Well it saying my coil will work. What do u mean by terminals and stuff do I have to rewire something ?

Also on my dirt squirt my wheels are locked . I've already disconnected the brakes and the still won't move with motor off. I thought about having my grandpa drag me around on his tractor and see if I can break the wheels loose. Is this a good idea or is there something better??

I wouldn't recommend the tractor drag to break the wheels loose. The wheels are giving you a pretty good hint that things are pretty corroded up . . . so they need to come off the machine for a thorough disassembly and cleaning . . . and most likely new bearings. Cleaning/lubing beats brute force most every time. You should start getting used to the idea that there isn't a single part on the machine that should escape being held in your hand and examined for wear/damage, if you want the machine to be dependable when you get finished working on it.
Ed

Do the forks move up and down? Also do the rear shocks move up and down? As to the brakes, try moving the brake arms back and forth, you might break it loose that way, if not more aggressive measures my be needed. After you get them apart, clean the drums, replace the shoes, lube the pivot points. New bearings in the hub are an inexpensive job that doesn't take long. Also check that the rim is good, spokes are not broke or loose, and the hub where the spokes go thru are not cracked. You need to lay eyes and hands on every piece to make sure it's right. And no short cuts, do it right the first time.

Did you find a kick lever that will work?

Thank you guys ! And no I'm not sure if I have found a kick that will work will my diet squirt kick mount on the motor I have?

Diet squirt? The kicker shafts as far as I know are very similar. The kickers are different.