The Hodaka Club Forum

I used Rustoleum Red for my Ace Frame, and so did Maxie, I believe. Works well, especially with a gray primer underneath! At O'Riley's I found smaller cans of Chevrolet red (Victory Red), and it looks great too! I did my second Toad with this and the matching clear coat they sell to go with it!

The stock orange-red of the airfilter cover just doesn't work for me. My mental image has it being a red, and it looks too much like a pumpkin. I'll look into your and Max's red. And I have the choice of a couple of "Wombat" decal color combos.

I guess SH offers the original color. But for me, I just ran to the local Big Box store and got the Rustoleum because it was close enough and didn't have to wait for shipping.

I will tell you that the Chevy red is so close that I didn't paint the inside of the air cleaner cover. I just cleaned it and really can't tell the difference! ; D Victor

If I were doing a concours resto, the SH paint would be perfect, but for my purpose the Chevy Victory Red plus clearcoat over the decal is good. I still need to order decal, so I wont worry about finishing this up til after Barbers Vintage Fest. I've got a wee palm/orbital sander that will be perfect for prepping the old tin.

Actually I know exactly what color your chevy red is since there is a color reference in some of your photos. I have the same Red Harbor Freight lift in my shop, too.

Bill. You doing a Red Toad or is this a red cover for a Wombat? If it's a Toad, I'll give you one of my extra graphic sets. If it's a Wombat, you're on your own! Let me know. ; D Victor

It's for a spruced-up Wombat. I've got decals on order. But thx for offering!!

OK. That's what I thought. This was the cover you talked about on Facebook too, right? ; D Victor

Took the seat pan I got from Bruce to my upholsterer yesterday at 3:00z. He called me this morning at 11:00 & said it is ready!!! Wow! ; D Victor

Another shot...

YEAY Bruce!!! He found me a set of .020 Art rings for the RT piston I bought from Rich! Amen & haleluia! You da Man Bruce!!! ; D Victor

I'm so bummed out. I was trying to re-insert the rubber pads for the rear fender mounts and I dropped the red fender face down! Now I have to sand and prime & paint it again! ; ^ { Victor

Wet sand the damaged areas with 400 - 600 grit wet/dry paper until it is feathered. Use a medium stiff sponge for backing and make sure the feathering is about 1/2" - 3/4" around all damaged areas. Stop sanding if you break through to the bare metal and apply a thin primer/filler to the area and start over. You're done when you have a smooth surface with no pinpoint sized pits in the finish. Then use a medium scotch brite pad, (gray in color) and scuff up the rest of the finish, clean it well, dry, and re-spray color.

If done properly, you can have it ready to re-paint in about 20 minutes.

$0.02

Roger

Yup. But I did scratch they the primer to the metal. So I'll have to work it carefully, scuff the whole fender, & paint & clear coat again. Excluding time it will cost me about $8 plus another pack of sand paper if I don't have any more 600 grit. ; D Victor

Or you could leave the ding as a beauty mark, realizing that you are human and cannot attain perfection.

Bill. That's a thought but I'm sure my 16 yr old nephew will notice it immediately! Nice try though. If only it had been in an area under the seat, but Nooooo. It had to happen just above the tail light mount point! So now I have to go buy another can of "Chevy Red" at ORiley's! ; D Victor

Putting the top end together, I didn't know there was a possibility that thecrings would need gapping. Every other bike I worked on in the past did not require gapping of one or more rings.
So now that we've discussed this need I will get back on it and slowly file the ring gap down until it fits with +/- .004-.008 spacing. Thanks again for saving my bacon! And Ed, I'll turn the dykes ring over so that it's mounted like your electronic picture. !_(piston)_! ; D Victor

Spent some time today working on wire ends. New bullets & female connectors on almost all that needed them with new insulators! Worked in head light bucket too! ; D Victor

Patiently awaiting wrist pin circlips. I thought I had a set here, but couldn't find them. And I boosted the order by adding a set of 50th Aniv. Badges for the tank! She's gonna look good! ; D Victor

Circlips are in place. No I need some warmth to drop the cylinder on. Put the gaskets and I can close it up! ; D Victor

Took the second Road Toad ignition switch to the locksmith today, along with the key they figured out would work from the last switch. The key was broken off inside this switch, so they had to completely disassemble the switch. Dropped it off at 12:05 and got a call at 2:08 that it was done! Ignition #2 already installed on the second Road Toad! ; D Victor

Yah Hoo! I got it on! Now I can move forward! It was cold and things went together snugly but it's on! Need to add a bit more 2 stroke oil to the rings/cylinder so things move more smoothly! The trick with the pencils as the Tuning Fork worked very well! ; D Victor

Great work, Victor. These are going to be a pair of cool scoots!

Thanks Matt! Going to Phoenix for a few days. Maybe it will be warmer when I get back??? ; D Victor

More work completed today. Fixed the rear fender paint & got it mounted. Damn rubber pads are a PAIN to push back through those holes! Took me nearly an hour of pushing and tugging, but the fender is mounted. Also mounted and wired up the rear tail light.

Then I had to pull the front axle to realign the brake hub. Got it adjusted and mounted and the axle reinstalled. Connected the hub retainer bar and connected the wires to the front brake switch. Couldn't mount the switch because I didn't have the correct screws to mount it, so off to the store tomorrow!

Installed the front brake cable, the brake arm and adjusted. Also mounted the kill switch on the front brake perch. The wires were cut off so I added some bullet connectors & need to get some black & blue wire to run down to the female plugs under the tank. Also added the rear brake switch wires and switch but again need the screws to mount to the plate. Here's a couple of new pics of today's progress! ; D Victor

I thought the brake switches were held together with screws to the backing plate. Turns out they are riveted together. In my searching through boxes of parts I found 2 more switches which weren't separated from their backing plates! Good news for me! I didn't have long enough rivets! All the turn signals are mounted now & I mounted the non-broken light/turn/horn switch for this unit and wired it in. Have to pull the throttle and perch to mount the right side front turn signal assembly. But I'm just about ready to drop the motor in and finish up connecting the wiring. Son in law said he'd have the rear tire mounted for me tonight so I can get the rear wheel on! And waiting patiently on a correct Model 99 kick start lever from Bruce! Getting closer. ; D Victor