The Hodaka Club Forum

Zeek. As far as the front tire goes, I wouldn't use it. Probably old and dry rotted. You should find a 4 digit number on it, like 3275 or other. The first 2 digits are the week of the year it was made and the last 2 digits are the year. 3275 would be made in the 32nd week of 1975. So in late July or early August, just as an example.

If you wanted, you could clean the tire and save it for display, but it's probably not even the OEM front tire.

Get some new tire's and then you can ride it when you're done with the restore! ; D Victor

Zeek. Have you ever used aluminum foil for rust removal on chrome parts? Wrinkling and then folding a sheet of aluminum foil and wetting it and then using it to clean the rust will show you whether there is light pitting or pitting all the way through. It also helps lower the cost of rechroming because YOU do the rust removal.

It works well. Some folks also say wet the foil with Coca Cola also. It's a great trick for rust removal, especially on chrome. ; D Victor

Whew - that tank may not be in the "save-able" category. Interesting technique by the DPO (Dreaded Previous Owner) - painting the brake shoes?

You'll love the little Squirt when it runs again. There is a reason it was also called, "The Fun Hundred!"

Ed

What level of rebuild are you going for? 100 point complete restore? Or a good looking rider? You make it too good and you may not want to ride it.

So have you asked what it would cost to rechrome that tank? Just curious.... ; D Victor

viclioce wrote: The first 2 digits are the week of the year it was made and the last 2 digits are the year. 3275 would be made in the 32nd week of 1975. So in late July or early August, just as an example.

Only numbers I see are a "BXB493" stamped into a rectangular area, and "30502" in raised numerals.

thrownchain wrote:What level of rebuild are you going for? 100 point complete restore? Or a good looking rider? You make it too good and you may not want to ride it.

Much like the "inspiration" bike picture I have on the 1st page Throwchain (Great username BTW )
Soo, maybe a 99.5 point? lol
I do like to use Stainless nuts and bolts normally though. it's to be a full strip repaint, replate job.

viclioce wrote:So have you asked what it would cost to rechrome that tank? Just curious.... ; D Victor

Yes, unfortunately
"Around" AUD$600 but no one really wanted to do it.
I asked this question when building that 450 on the 1st page...which is why I ended up doing it in ceramic coating instead! In that case CC was better because it match the rest of the alloy. In this case it just has to be chrome I feel.

My alloy super sprocket
62 teeth of about to be shiny goodness. The bike had been running 13/62 gearing which seems very low to me. The good thing is both are in really godd condition


Also bundled up the first installment for vapour blasting.

Just salvaging what i could from the old '74 frame and noticed it's E09179.....very close to the last ever made if they only went to 09200, maybe the last day of production

Hey Zeek, I followed your link to Classic Bike Forum and registered. If approved I'll try to post a couple of past projects on the site. See ya there hopefully!

Max

Thanks! I did approve that yesterday. I've also removed the requirement for an admin approval. I did that when I got deluged with spammers earlier on.

This lot should keep the Zinc platers quiet for a while.


Not sure whether I'll use the standard bars or these other little beauties

Vapour blasted parts back!
Look like new again

Well now I have a problem..in the rush to strip the old parts I didn't realise there are differences between the '73 and '74 it seems
Anyone know the difference here. I assume the one beefed up at the spoke connection (on the right) is the later model?


Then we have the rear hubs..
Two different bearing surfaces


This one seems rough cast or maybe just eaten...but I think it's how it was cast?

Not sure how I'll go with this little gem

Took the tank in for de-chroming. Now this is done there are two small dents to get removed then it's back for chroming.

Newly Zinc plated parts are done
A few parts are going to be polished and re done where the corrosion is showing.

Really nice. I need to find someone that can do this for me. How do they price items? By number or weight or what?

bchappy wrote:Really nice. I need to find someone that can do this for me. How do they price items? By number or weight or what?

I use a semi retired guy that's been in the game for years.
I think normally I'd be paying around AUD$110.00 for say a bucket full or a single part (same fee regardless)
This guy charges me more though But he goes the extra mile to make sure everything is nice.

Not much happening other than a ferocious draining of finances
Shiny new .020 over piston kit on the way, new lever rubbers and fork tubes about to be ordered.
Can't wait to actually start rebuilding this thing!

Presents starting to roll in.
New set of fork tubes turned up at the door thanks to Strictly Hodaka, and most of the chrome work is done.




The original Hodaka bars weren't savable (economically speaking) but the old XL Honda bars are good.

Just waiting on a battery box to show up as the frame needs a tag welded on to fix the lower point of the box before painting can happen

Well! It's been a while now.Nothing much happened due to not being able to paint the frame until a battery box was sourced and fitted.
I was reading Gumtree ads on the weekend and sure enough....Hoddie parts not half an hour away......and, only 100yards from where I was working today
Guy has the mother load of parts and 4 restored bikes as well.
So got everything I need, less a full wiring harness.
Hopefully things will take off again now,

Finding parts that close to you, in Tasmania, is unbelievable. What were the four restored Hodakas down there in Tassie?

There is a Super Rat, and a combat. I think the others were modified, all beautiful condition.

Super Rat is for sale.
The guy is a real enthusiast and very knowledgeable on all things Hodaka it seems.