The Hodaka Club Forum

I had to lift the condenser free so it wasn't touching ground, and test between the solder connection and the can to get a reading. I couldn't tell you what the difference is, but if I used the engine block as a ground, I didn't get a reading either. Point is that it doesn't need to be unsoldered but it does have to be electrically isolated from ground.

Hmmm it's not even in my bike. The magneto is totally removed. I unscrewed it and tilted it up. I did this with two magneto???

Not an electrical engineer, so can't say. Does your meter auto-range?

Doesn't appear to have one. It just has a farad setting from 2n to 2m

It matters whether the "m" is small case or capitalized, one micro, one milli. It shifts the decimal. But if the capacitor is out of range of your tester it wouldn't read. I don't know if that's what is going on.

Hello I'm back, finally got a new condenser, points are pretty new. If you read back I tested the primary and secondary coils. I'm pretty good at getting the points set. I have a multimeter with a continuity tester can I use that for timing? What is happening is I've randomly gotten a few bright purple/blue sparks And that's it?? Thanks all.

Another observation as I took a break to come here. Hooked up the continuity tester. It seemed that even if I pulled the points open it still beeped. I set them at .013 again and I got one fat spark then nothing again. I remembering this happened before the new condenser, but I had no way of checking the old one so I just bought another.

As long as ignition wires and such are still connected, you will not get infinite resistance with points open. Resistance changes but not from zero to infinity. Easier to see with an analog meter where needle swings but just listen for a tone change on your beeper.

Chasing gremlins is tedious. It could be an intermittent problem like loose solder connection or broken wire. Hard to debug over the net. Check all components carefully. You may need to take everything apart and test one piece at a time. If you have soldered in a new condenser I would not undo the solder joint unless known to need redone. Instead I would clip the wires to isolate and butt join to rebuild. Trying not to get condenser hotter than needed.

Do you have another coil you can use to test system?

Thanks, it's been raining here. Hope to get back at it tomorrow. No I don't have another to test. Try try again

I have run into intermitant spark issues and one that proved a real challenge. Like you it would spark and go away with nothing obvious wrong. Using an ohm meter, both the black and blue ignition wires showed continuity and the circuit should have been in good condition. Out of frustration I pulled hard on both wires. I don't remember which one pulled apart but it did. Seems the wire had a break inside the insulation that would ohm out ok. But with an greater electrical load would go open circuit. Repaired the wire and good to go. I do not know if that is your problem but something to be aware of.

Danny

I just wanted to say I solved this issue. I don't know if it was points or the plug, but I got it sparking and running (for a few seconds today. I found some points at a sale and they looked just like hodaka points. So I picked up a new plug. So new points, plug and condenser. And I'd be earns if I didn't get a nice day blue spark. So thank you all for helping and I just wanted to give my praise to this forum and its members. Plus those points work and they have more so I'm off to get more. I'll never run out of points!!! Thanks!!!