The Hodaka Club Forum

Victor, I had much more contemplating time versus actual metal removal. I didn't want to mess up that nice new piston! I'm not done yet in that I have to tidy up some rough areas both on the piston and cylinder ports. What a fun project though.

Max

We are looking at many years of experience. It took longer the first time, than it does now, I am sure. Lots of trial and error. Max again, great work. good to see an magician at work. Bruce Young

Just for fun I rummaged around the Hodaka shed and found the old short trackers crank (You've probably seen it before). This is about the limit of skirt removing that you can do before disaster sets in. Check out the bladed rod.

Max

Hey!!! Both your pictures look upside down to me! (Sorry, just couldn't resist!!!) ; D Victor

Yet another progress report. I finally got back to the front fender mount. After Sawzalling off a bit more of the lower fork stem I could get by with 1/4'' aluminum rather than 1/2'' in the mock-up. I did get carried away with the Cool Factor but it looked a little blocky without the holes. My first brake stay was too long and while I was in the hole drilling mode I shortened and perforated it also. Front brake cable installed and routed. Plenty of fender/pipe clearance which is good. Wow, that was really fun designing and building the bracket!

Maxie

Looks nice! I think the holes look stylin'! ; D Victor

Funny, Neither my friend John (who used the same forks as I did back in the day) or I can remember how much fork oil that the baby Ceriani forks require. Hmm, It's only been 45 years ago and you'd think one of us would remember. Part of the aging process I guess. Does anyone have any ideas? I've searched pretty heavily on the internet to no avail. Somewhere I read something about an air to oil ratio. I'm lost.

Thanks Gang.

Maxie

Max,
I believe that your forks are 28mm? A previous post by Pep stated that her 32mm Ceriani forks called for 135cc (4.565 oz). Another post from Paul stated that the Dirt Squirt 80 used a 28mm front fork. Although a different brand of fork the Dirt Squirt 80 calls for 128.4cc (4.3 oz). My guess is that your 28mm Cerianis will be in this range.
Dale

Thanks Dale, They are 28mm. I vaguely remember 4 oz, I think that's what I'll try. Sounds like we're at least in the ball park.

Maxie

The NOS model 93 cylinder has finally been dealt with as far as repairing rust damage to the head gasket surface area. I had decided to fill the voids with silver solder and tested the procedure but in the end went with welding it. After welding I dressed it down carefully with a large file and finally with a flat stone. It actually measures a little flatter after the procedure than before. Anyway the cylinder is ready to go. (My that weld material was hard!)

Max

Ah, a nice sub-assembly ready to go. Bored and reed valved repaired cylinder, holy piston, new intake studs, new paint, all new gaskets, reeds and rebuilt 24mm carb. I had to drill some new holes in the 94 intake to bolt onto the reed manifold. This will level the carb out. This is not my idea but recommended in the day by Harry Taylor for using a 24mm carb for trials. It will be interesting to see (or feel) what the added intake length does for performance. Minor report--

Maxie

One last word (hopefully) on the cylinder repair. In my test repair on a junk cylinder I used a soft plumbing type silver solder which filed easily. I didn't have enough torch to get good adhesion on the test so I took it to my machinist friend to be done properly. It appeared to have been welded when I got it back. I find out that there is more than one kind or alloy of silver solder that was so hard I assumed to be iron weld. Anyway to clarify my writings it was silver solder. All is well.

Honest Max.

Hey Max,

Good looking work and I was wondering what effect the long intake tract would have also. I know in the automotive world intake runner length is a tuning aspect. Please keep us informed.

Yes, there is regular soft low temperature solder with some silver content and then there is real silver solder. Real silver solder is more of a brazing operation and melt temps run approximately in the 1100 to 1400 degree range. You would not want to use that to solder your condenser.....just being funny of course.

Danny

Lots of things to do on the property in the Spring and I've not been working too hard on the project. It is time to put together a power plant from all the parts I have been gathering up. The bushing to bearing modifications have been made by my local friend and machinist. This was not a necessary modification but it was one of the first modifications done when building a Ace 90 for racing. The model 93 Super Rat came with this set-up but later reverted back to the bushing on the main shaft. I suspect the reason being excessive wear on the shaft end. I wouldn't recommend this modification on the main shaft for a long term rider but it's certainly good (and cool) for a racer. Part of the theme of this project is to modify everything I can so it will be somewhat unique which is all part of the fun of this restoration!

Max

A few shaving making items before assembly. A quick check on transfer port alignment to the crankcase. Looking good here. Also It's a good time to drill out the breather vent. (Don't get carried away, you can drill into the crankcase with this method!) This can also be done by pulling the vent out on an assembled engine but they can sometimes be difficult to remove. Now I can run a hose to a higher level to prevent water entry and provide increased venting of the crankcase. More on all of this in the Resonator, another reason to join the Hodaka Club!

Max

Nice work and attention to detail, I like it! Richard

Thanks again Richard! Encouragement always helps move things along.

Max

PS--It's like all these critics are watching and show and tell must be right.

Wow, a great find for the project. I had an aluminum 42T Webco sprocket I was going to use on the project but was beginning to think it would be geared a bit high and along with the fact that it had some wear on it started me searching for an aluminum 4-bolt 50T. This also fits into my plan of weight reduction. Saved by Ebay, NOS Aluminum 50T 4-bolt is a hard one to find. A check on the scales weighs in at 12 oz., unsprung weight at that! I actually thought the package was empty when it arrived. Happy for the day.

Max

Great find Max! That was a good one! ; D Victor

Finally time to assemble the engine with a new rod, all new bearings and seals along with the new needle bearings machined in the cases. Old hat for the regulars, intimidating for the newbie. Never fear, fairly straight forward, just take your time and make sure all of the parts are in place. Don't forget the kick starter o-ring in the case. I did make a mock run without sealer to make sure everything is rotating freely. Also oil all rubber seal lips as you would when putting any seal in. I had a set of stainless steel allen headed case screws left over from another project which made torquing a bit easier. I sure got a lot of parts off my bench!

Max

It won't be long now. That is going to be one fun ride.

Hey thanks Dale! I was checking today when the day I unloaded the Day One Project was and it was over a year ago, March 10, 2015 actually. I wasn't speedy but it has entertained me. I'm still in no hurry, this is really a fun laid back project. It's also been equally fun documenting the project. In my life as a photographer I was fortunate to get to document many "how things work" projects. Just having a good time!

Thanks for your comments!

Max

A little note on torquing the case screws. This was the first time ever that I used a torque wrench to set case screws. Somewhere in my notes I found the recommended torque to be 55-76 in/pounds. I set the wrench to 55 and made the rounds. I then used a T-handle to tighten them as I have done dozens of other assemblies. Each screw turned very slightly which fell within the torque recommendations. The bottom line here is the way all of the old guys have been doing it seems to be OK without torque wrenches but at least I feel better knowing that all is well with my "built in torque wrench". Guess it's just common sense after a lifetime of trial and error.

Just chattering,

Max

PS--I still use torque wrenches on heads, flywheels, clutches and such. Quite necessary!

And another cool addition from the Hodaka shed is this racing straight-cut primary drive set that I ordered for Ace 100s that were later used on the first Super Rats. One and the same with 91 prefix. They are noisier (but it's a good noise), more efficient and stronger. All good! Slowly coming together.!

Max

Max. Did you ever find or make a kickstand for this bike?

I have one which is 13" from bottom tip to the center of the hole. Thought of you! I thought this was for my Road Toad, but it's too long & too wide between the holes up top! Here's a photo. It's even been sanded & painted black. ; D Victor