New to Hodakas!!!

[hodakamax]

Aaron, you might want to go to the American Historic Racing Motorcycle Association (AHRMA) and view the vintage rules to help guide you on modifications that are legal for specific classes. Mods are allowed but must be of the era. Suspension updates are allowed but limited to stock travel and so on. Motor/frame numbers need not match. Check it out.

Max

[AM103]

Aaron, you might want to go to the American Historic Racing Motorcycle Association (AHRMA) and view the vintage rules to help guide you on modifications that are legal for specific classes. Mods are allowed but must be of the era. Suspension updates are allowed but limited to stock travel and so on. Motor/frame numbers need not match. Check it out.

Max

Max, Did the numbers on the motor originally match the frame? I know on Honda Z50s, they never matched...just were from the same year and usually close. Would it hurt resell value?

Thanks,
Aaron

[bchappy]

The motor and engine numbers do not match. Check out "How to identify your Hodaka" under "FAQ" at the right top of the Strictly Hodaka Home Page. Resale value would not be affected as long as it is the proper model. The values you list are close (maybe a little high for the CW). Most we have seen sale in the current market are not in "perfect condition" and have not brought that much. You might get that much for one that is in perfect condition. Just my 2 cents.

[hodakamax]

Aaron, there's a good chart on the SH site under FAQ for frame and engine numbers. The engine and frame numbers are different. Restoring Hodakas for resale is not a good business to be in. Restoration is expensive and hard to recover at least in my experience. Hodakas are usually restored for a purpose (vintage racing in your case) or just for the pride of owning a piece of motorcycle history.

Max

Oops, Bill and I are typing at the same time--same message it seems.

[AM103]

Well sounds like I'll have to be on the lookout for a CW motor then! Thanks to both of you! No reason to rebuild this Combat motor then. And I don't plan to try and make money on them, I just would rather have the correct one in...because even for me, not knowing much about Hodakas...(yet)...I still would rather have a bike with the right motor. Perhaps I have OCD haha!
Thanks Bill and Max for the info!!

Aaron

[Zyx]

If you can find an engine for a combat wombat, or correct pieces depending on which bottom half of the engine you have, you can reconstruct one. But beware looking for parts on eBay. My experience has been that 99% or more of parts listed for a Hodaka are misidentified. Guys seem to through in as many name references as they can think up to farm for buyers. Things like Super Combat Wombat abound, and if you contact such folks, they are clueless as to what they have. They just heard the names somewhere, or don't care.

There are a few folks here on the forum that have engines or parts of engines who actually know the difference between a wombat and a combat wombat. Once you identify what you have and decide which way to go with your projects, you can ask around here for guidance and sources. If your friends contact has a horde of Hodaka parts, he should know which is which, but even then, learn what to look for before you buy. Even if there are more similarities between these bikes than differences, the differences are important.

If you really can exchange the engine shown for a correct one, great. And if there is someone out there with 200 Super Rats in a warehouse, by all means get photos.

[AM103]

If you can find an engine for a combat wombat, or correct pieces depending on which bottom half of the engine you have, you can reconstruct one. But beware looking for parts on eBay. My experience has been that 99% or more of parts listed for a Hodaka are misidentified. Guys seem to through in as many name references as they can think up to farm for buyers. Things like Super Combat Wombat abound, and if you contact such folks, they are clueless as to what they have. They just heard the names somewhere, or don't care.

There are a few folks here on the forum that have engines or parts of engines who actually know the difference between a wombat and a combat wombat. Once you identify what you have and decide which way to go with your projects, you can ask around here for guidance and sources. If your friends contact has a horde of Hodaka parts, he should know which is which, but even then, learn what to look for before you buy. Even if there are more similarities between these bikes than differences, the differences are important.

If you really can exchange the engine shown for a correct one, great. And if there is someone out there with 200 Super Rats in a warehouse, by all means get photos.

Assuming I actually get to go there, I don't think I can go there without taking photos!!! I'm wondering if the original owner started doing a restoration and ran into what you mentioned...bought parts that weren't really to what they say they are. I looked on ebay a little and had trouble believing the parts for a super rat are all the same as a super combat wombat...didn't make sense to me. Would the Hodaka Book have the differences mentioned in it?

Aaron

[Zyx]

Combat Wombat frames start with the letter D. Engine numbers begin with J. You should find the engine number on the clutch side engine case in the front of the engine below and to the right of the exhaust flange (left if facing the exhaust flange). Probably need to remove some grime to see it. There should be a data plate on the steering head for the frame.

Assuming that the engine in the photo is a relatively complete original engine from a donor bike, and it is a Wombat engine, the engine number will start with the letter H. However, if the engine was put together from miscellaneous parts, the cases could be Combat Wombat and the cylinder from a Wombat. Once someone starts mixing parts, all bets are off as to what you really have, and you will need to take the engine apart to verify primaries, clutch baskets, transmission parts, and so on to see where they came from. It's a pain, but a learning experience.

See if you can locate the exhaust pipe for the CW, or at least one that mates to the engine if you are going to use the one in the photo. It is one of those parts that is hard to find, and pricey if you do, so ask about the pipe. If you can in fact find the original engine for the CW, by all means ask about the exhaust pipe. The original pipe for the CW is actually a pretty good pipe.

[hodakamax]

Aaron, the differences can be easily figured out on the SH parts schematics. Model numbers are in the beginning of each part number. 94xxxx is for a Wombat, 95xxxx is for a CW. Some parts are interchangeable such as mainshaft bushing 901011 which will fit both a Ace 90 and 94. Check it out.

Max

[Zyx]

The Hodaka book has a lot of information and lots of photos. It is a good source for information if for no other reason than the author went out of his way to secure everything there was to know before he started writing. But it isn't intended as a parts reference. The exploded diagrams do a better job of showing what parts were original to which engine. Then, the supplemental specs listing on the website will also give you critical data, like gear tooth count, helical versus straight cut primary gears and so on. Just be aware that almost any parts from a 100 or 125 Hodaka will interchange to some degree. Example, I bought a 97 engine, Super Combat, on eBay. When I took it apart, it had a 100cc Super Rat tranny, a 97 clutch basket, but 100cc Super Rat clutch guts. Just because the parts fit doesn't mean they are right.

Find out which engine is shown in the photo by looking at it yourself. Verify the number on the engine case. Go from there. If the correct engine is available and the guy you are buying from just picked up the wrong motor, fine. Get the right one. It will save a bunch of time. If that is not possible, take what is there and decide what you want to do with it. It is more difficult to make a racer out of a model 94 engine, but not impossible. I have a model 94 transmission in my model 97 engine by choice because I wanted a wide ratio gear box with overdrive. It gives me the manners of a motocross engine with the legs of a street bike. I clocked my bike recently at 62mph with a GPS, and it is configured for motocross. My old engine was good for about 54 similarly set up. So you can mix and match on purpose to achieve what you want, but first you have to determine what you are really getting.

[gskaw]

Kinda funny a few of you are from Kansas...These bikes are coming from Wellsville, KS. The seller is meeting me next Sunday at a Hare Scramble I'll be racing at anyways that's in southwest Iowa.

What I amazed about is what has been sitting in peoples garages for years and just by chance somehow one of us finds it and brings it back to life. Here are a couple of pictures for Max since he was a Hodaka/Maico dealer back in the day. It was at the local bike show in Augusta, KS a couple of weeks ago.

[hodakamax]

Yea! Two nice specimens for sure!

Thanks!

Maxie

[WALDO]

To begin with, you need to know that I am MADLY in LOVE with Combat Wombats. I own 3 plus various other Hodies. I take Combat Wombat questions personally so bear with me. I will be interested in seeing the manufature date and Frame #(which should start with a "D" (not "C") and the Engine # (which should start with a "J"). It is quite common to find a Model 94 Frame "C" and Engine "H" dressed up to look like a Model 95, or perhaps I should say dressed down to perform more like a Model 95. Having these numbers will identify the engine cases, though the cylinder could still be something else. The exhaust port is located 28mm from the top of the cylider(inside the bore) on a Model 95. The cylinder is alloy w/ a cast-in iron liner. The engine should be piston port not reed-induction. PLEASE DO NOT convert your Mdl 95 cylinder to reed-induction! Yeah it makes it fast, but you can never go back and it will be the end of yet another Mdl 95 cylinder! Find a Super Combat cylinder if you want reeds. The Akront-style wheel is actually a "Takasago" and was put on Model 95's only during the first couple months of production. 1/73 to 4/73 give or take a little. It doesn't look like you have a pipe, so I won't worry about the differences there yet. I am very concerned about this Combat. If you restore this bike, do not repaint the air box cover. That airbox cover is the heart and soul of the Combat Wombat. Repaint it, and you have killed her. My opinion, others may disagree. I have a few of them, and hate to see them altered. Keep it stock and enjoy. Get a Yamaha or Honda if you want to beat it. If your deal falls through there are plenty of us who would like a crack at this project, or the parts to save others in need of them. Good Luck. Nice Find. Please do not hesitate to ask questions. -Nate

[BrianZ]

Nate, I agree with most of what you say, however the reed conversion was very popular back in the day, with Hodaka offering a factory reed conversion known as the Endurocross kit. My Combat Wombat has this conversion. I still have the stock cylinder but sadly it is worn out and on its last oversize. Some day I may send it out for plating to bring it back to life.

At the 2014 Hodaka Days swap meet there was a fellow with two brand new "still in the box" Endurocross kits for sale.

Brian

[Bullfrog]

My only disagreement with Waldo is that you actually can convert a reeded Combat Wombat cylinder back to piston port . . . I am running just such a cylinder on my bike right now. I suppose I need to do a Resonator article on the project someday. Harry Taylor advised me on how to go about "reversing" the reed mods. They process wasn't all that difficult and it has been running just fine for the past 3 years. (Hmmm, though I did sieze it last fall and haven't yet had time to dig in to find what caused the problem. At this point, I don't think it relates to the conversion back to piston port.)

The thing that simply can NOT be reversed is raising the exhaust port. This is where I would plead . . . do not start with a Combat Wombat (OR Wombat 03) cylinder if you are going to make an "all out racer". If you want a Super Combat cylinder, get a Super Combat cylinder. My 2 cents.

Ed

[Zyx]

Comparing cylinder porting:

94 Wombat ......03 Wombat. .......95 Combat. .......97 Super Combat

Ex. 162*............ Ex. 172*............Ex. 179*.......... Ex. 190*
Tr. 128*. ..........Tr. 129*............Tr. 128*. .........Tr. 134*
In. 139..............In. Reed.......... In. 148*........... In. Reed


Except for the Super Combat, which is ported for motocross and in stock trim is peaky to say the least, the three Wombats are similar in porting, each being a step more than the last, the 94 being an iron cylinder, the others alumiferric. Transfer porting is virtually the same for the Wombats. Personally, I think the 03 is a great place to start to build a race bike, but not a motocross bike. It is just too simple to make a good motocross engine out of the 97 to start somewhere else that would require a lot of porting just to get to par with the 97.

But if you want a less peaky more torquey engine, both the 03 and the 95 have much to offer, one already being reed induction, the other convertible to reed. If I had to start somewhere and had access to either cylinder, I would start with the 03 because I would rather tweak the porting a bit than convert to reed induction. But then, I am not a purist, and don't have any romantic attachments to one or the other model. In the 70's I was not impressed with the stock Combat Wombat, but I am impressed with the 03 model, which represents quite a techno-leap compared to the 94. The one and only problem here is that the 95 and 03 cylinders are getting hard to find.

For the record, the 97 engine I have is stock porting, but no longer has flat performance in the low to mid range. It still has a power surge where it used to, but now pulls from bottom up using a modified Mikuni 32 and the HT3. But it isn't the HT3 that makes it pull, it is the carb. I rode it in the Bad Rock trail ride, and loved the power, and yet in the motocross, it allowed me to pull corners in third gear with the wide ratio gear box, which it would not do before the carb was modified. That one change alone has made this otherwise stock 97 into a flexible, all around bike, not just a screamer moto bike. So if you want to race, start with the 97 and have the carb modified. Then if you want to tweak the porting, it won't take much to get whatever you want.

[bchappy]

You are teasing us Shorty by saying "modified carb". Want to explain what modifications were done to the carb?

[Bullfrog]

That's my question too Chappie!

Ed

[Zyx]

Three venturi dividers, front and back. Shaved the needle jet shroud a tad. UFO installed. Leaned the jetting down to 390 main, dropped the needle to the top slot. Oddly, it ran better in Oergon than it does here, and I didn't change the jetting for HD. Runs fine at 6,300 feet, but ran better at whatever Athena is, and ran as well at town level as it did on the top of the grade. Dropped one plug range, from B9HV to B8HV. Stock air box. Stock ports. Oh, and I grooved the head with six torque grooves, which didn't change anything that I could really feel, but it does run cleaner. Almost no residue in the chamber, and the plug is clean around the perimeter even after the trail ride. So it does some good, but would take a dyno to tell if it changes power.

I ran the engine with the HT3 and torque grooves, but stock 32. Typical moto bike, and on steep rock grades and such, I had to scream it to keep it from dying. No real mid range power and prone to bogging and quitting if I didn't tend to the throttle. Modified the carb, and now it has no mid range bogging and makes usable power below the power band peak. Smooth transition from idle to three quarters throttle, and normal operation from there up. Ran the Bad Rock trail on a smidge over one gallon of fuel. Basically, it turned a cranky motocross bike into a woods weapon.

[Zyx]

Carb mods courtesy of Rich Gagnon. Life can be interesting. I was told at Hodaka Days in clear terms that Venturi dividers were a total waste of time and did nothing for performance. Big rip off. On and on. I let the comment pass. Having just made a before and after comparison, I knew they do work, but heck, if I convince everyone, then I won't have an edge.

[AM103]

He claims he's got the original pipe. Sent me this picture tonight. Happy that it has a seat too! He says the seat cover isnt ripped, but who knows! He also says the tanks are in really good shape and they have no dents, no rust in them, and arent rotting out on the bottom. This might be cleaner than I'm expecting! Maybe it'll start up if i throw it back together! I asked for pics of the case #'s. Still no pictures of them yet. A family friend who's a cop is coming over tonight to run the vins and then sign the bonded title applications saying they aren't stolen. I'm excited to get this rolling!

[AM103]

Neither bike has even been registered. The motor numbers are P38124 for the ace and h06129 on the combat wombat. The ace 100 appears to be a 1970.....the combat wombat appears to be a wombat motor unfortunately.

[AM103]

Got the bikes. Quick question....was this a mount for number plates? Would anyone be able to help me out and send a picture of what it should look like as well as dimensions of the piece?

Really getting excited to dig into these. Going to weld that on the frame and repaint it black before putting it all back together. It's already stripped so I figure I'll start with that and build my way up. I'm wondering if the motor won't start right up. I think the guy I got them from's brother who started on them bought it to replace a missing motor, and that's why It's a wombat motor...probably didn't know the difference is my guess. There appear to be quite a few new parts. Looks very promising. Should be a good project. Unfortunately the case on the ace 100 needs replaced. I'm guessing the chain broke and got bunched up in there and took a chunk out of it. Oh well, I'll get er fixed up! Thanks, Aaron

[Zyx]

There are a number of photos on the Strictly Hodaka website. One on the index page for the schematic parts diagrams, one or two on the specifications .pdf file the link for which is on the schematics index page, and one or two in the photo library of customer's bikes. Can't tell for sure from the photo, but the tabs on the rear hoop look like seat mounts, or if there are also seat mounts further forward, these would be the bracket attach points for the number plate holder, a sort of hoop strap that went over the rear tire.

[Zyx]

Spec sheet for reference.