Coil ohms

[taz]

Found a ign coil in box but the ohms are only .6 is this correct ?? 72 Wombat Thanks also anyone know how to check the magneto ??

[dcooke007]

Hey Taz,

We have very little problems with Hodaka coils and it is more likely the points or condenser are the issue. I can not say coils never fail but not the first place I would be looking for lack of spark. Most likely the points or condenser issue.

I would suggest purchasing the flywheel puller tool and the 125 Workshop Manual from Strictly Hodaka. I could not find it on their sight and would suggest giving them a call. The shifter cover and flywheel have to be removed to service the points. To save time might just want to order the points and condenser any way. If you don't need them immediately having a spare set on hand is useful.

Danny

[Zyx]

The manual does not offer specs for the coils in the Wombat. Earlier bikes, specs were given. Starting around the time of the Wombat, Model 94, the manual began using test fire specs instead of resistance specs.

There are two coils, primary under the magneto, and secondary under the tank. Primary could be around 0.6 ohms and the secondary should be ten times higher than the primary, more or less. If your secondary is reading 0.6, verify that the reading is actually in ohms and not a higher scale.

I agree that the coil is the least likely part to fail. If it isn't sparking it could be as simple as dirty points. In another post you say the points are missing. Could be I suppose, but who would reassemble a magneto and leave out the points? Usually if someone removes the points and gives up, they leave the parts in a box.

Before wandering too far down this path, verify what you are looking at, and post photos so we can also see the magneto and such.

[taz]

The manual does not offer specs for the coils in the Wombat. Earlier bikes, specs were given. Starting around the time of the Wombat, Model 94, the manual began using test fire specs instead of resistance specs.

There are two coils, primary under the magneto, and secondary under the tank. Primary could be around 0.6 ohms and the secondary should be ten times higher than the primary, more or less. If your secondary is reading 0.6, verify that the reading is actually in ohms and not a higher scale.

I agree that the coil is the least likely part to fail. If it isn't sparking it could be as simple as dirty points. In another post you say the points are missing. Could be I suppose, but who would reassemble a magneto and leave out the points? Usually if someone removes the points and gives up, they leave the parts in a box.

Before wandering too far down this path, verify what you are looking at, and post photos so we can also see the magneto and such.

Thank you for all the help , Ok got cover off and me being over excited did not see the points right away , going to get a puller and see what I find in there for dirt rust etc , Once I'm in there is there any testing to be done on the coils and such ??? thanks and what is the point gap ??

[hodakamax]

Hey Taz, here's the way to set the points. Hope this helps!---The post "Timing the Hodaka" was brought to the top.

Max

[Zyx]

The points are probably in there. Rotate the magneto slowly and watch through inspection port.

The gap is a preliminary setting, around .013". After the gap is set, timing is set using the timing marks and a multimeter or other device to determine point break. Gap alone is not enough. Try cleaning your points with 220 W/D paper without removing them. Could be just dirty points.

[RichardMott]

I copied this from the tech tips from the SH site here. The photos were not there;

Simple timing setting for bikes with points:
This will work for all Hodaka models that use points. For photo purposes we used an Ace 100 motor I was working on, but you will find the same markings on your other models.
First remove your magneto cover so you can view your flywheel/stator assy. You will find a mark on the outside of your flywheel along with two marks on your left inside case. The two marks on your left inside case are located at the 11:00 position and the 12:00 position. Disregard the mark at the 12:00 position and only work with the 11:00 mark. You can see the flywheel mark and 11:00 mark highlighted in red by us for easier viewing purposes. Line up the two marks as seen in the above photo. Once this is done you will be able to look into the stator assy through the opening in the flywheel. You will need to loosen the screw to the right of the points by only a 1/4 turn max. There is a slotted area that is part of the back of the points which when fitted with a small flat head screwdriver and turned slightly will open or close the points depending on which way you turn it (clockwise or counterclockwise). You can see this in the highlighted red area in the photo. You will need to use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the points. Most Hodaka models are .012" - .015" gap. I use .013" which works well for me. Once the gap is set you will need to re-tighten the screw that you loosened. Sometimes when you go to re-tighten the screw the points will close on you. If this happens you might try and re-loosen the screw again set your gap this time to .015" and re-tighten the screw. This may bring you to the .013" gap once it is tight. When you do tighten the screw be sure to double check your point gap. Happy Riding!

[taz]

I copied this from the tech tips from the SH site here. The photos were not there;

Simple timing setting for bikes with points:
This will work for all Hodaka models that use points. For photo purposes we used an Ace 100 motor I was working on, but you will find the same markings on your other models.
First remove your magneto cover so you can view your flywheel/stator assy. You will find a mark on the outside of your flywheel along with two marks on your left inside case. The two marks on your left inside case are located at the 11:00 position and the 12:00 position. Disregard the mark at the 12:00 position and only work with the 11:00 mark. You can see the flywheel mark and 11:00 mark highlighted in red by us for easier viewing purposes. Line up the two marks as seen in the above photo. Once this is done you will be able to look into the stator assy through the opening in the flywheel. You will need to loosen the screw to the right of the points by only a 1/4 turn max. There is a slotted area that is part of the back of the points which when fitted with a small flat head screwdriver and turned slightly will open or close the points depending on which way you turn it (clockwise or counterclockwise). You can see this in the highlighted red area in the photo. You will need to use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the points. Most Hodaka models are .012" - .015" gap. I use .013" which works well for me. Once the gap is set you will need to re-tighten the screw that you loosened. Sometimes when you go to re-tighten the screw the points will close on you. If this happens you might try and re-loosen the screw again set your gap this time to .015" and re-tighten the screw. This may bring you to the .013" gap once it is tight. When you do tighten the screw be sure to double check your point gap. Happy Riding!

Just ordered the tune up kit and will clean all up and do as you suggested , Thanks ...

[Bullfrog]

The Owner's Manual does not list electrical information on the coils for the Wombat . . . but the Official Hodaka Workshop Manual certainly does. See pages 71 and 72.

Specs. for the ignition coil are:
Primary windings: 1.9 ohms (+-10%)
Secondary windings: 4.6Kohms - 5.7Kohms (+-10%) (that's 4,600 to 5,700 ohms +-10%)

Ed

[JayLael]

I have acumulated a small box full of bad lower coils for Wombat. I would consider replacing that too just to be safe. Four out of five in my box of bad ones work just fine until you get six miles from no where, then they fail.

[michael_perrett]

Always ride uphill from the truck.

ECHJYA pension fund manager