Super Rat

[Ridgerunner]

Started the bike last night it runs good!

[Ridgerunner]

I need a seat if anyone has one for sale.

[Zyx]

http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/product_p/979022ar.htm

If you can't find a used one, Paul has them in the new and improved version.

[Ridgerunner]

I put the new air cleaner in. I also replaced the chain roller guides with ones I ordered from the Strictly Hodaka Site. It seems like its hard for them to spin, I put new spacers in the rubber and used new bolts because the others were wore so badly that the chain was cutting into the bolts. I'm going to see if I can find a chain roller guide that has its own bearing inside. The fork seals are bad too. I am going to replace them, how much fork oil do they use, and these have air valves on the top.

[Zyx]

The chain rollers run on a steel bushing. Without the bushing they won't work. The bushing is fractionally longer than the plastic roller allowing the mounting bolt to tighten without pinching the roller, and while the fit is naturally a bit sloppy they do work. If you are running the roller over just a bolt, either find the bushing, also on the website, or source some steel tube of the correct dimension.

[Ridgerunner]

Thanks for the information, I did end up using steel pipe and cut it to size, and it looks like the chain is rolling over the edge of the bushing.

[Ridgerunner]

942003-Shifter Assembly Bushing set
These are a great reproduction part we have made for you. Hodaka had made these bushings back in the 1970's but they were both the same length. The shorter (10mm) bushing goes towards the outside of the cover to support the shift shaft. Our new longer (15mm) bushing goes on the inside of the case to give more support that the original 10mm bushings. We are always looking at new ways to improve on what Hodaka may have done. Here is the link on our Technical Tips page where you can see how to easily install this http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/images/Wornshif.jpg cut and paste into your browser
sold as a set. I am trying to get the link to work in the description but it doesn't. I am having trouble getting the bike to go into gear. It will when it is not running. I am not sure if the ratchet mechanism is working correctly. Shouldn't it spring back after pushing it down. I took the magneto cover off and cleaned it out, then I greased everything again. Also I noticed that the shifter shaft does not have those bushings described above. It has to washers and a snapring holding it in. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

[Ridgerunner]

I am still looking for a used seat if anyone has one.

[dirty_rat]

Yes, the shifter should spring back in either direction when released. There is a spring inside the case that moves the ratchet so it will engage the gear shaped plate to move it for shifting. If the spring is broken (common on very old ones) the shifter won't spring back. Or, it could just be full of dirt that is keeping it from moving.

Not all cases had the bushings. The bushings were developed in the mid 1970's to fix the older cases that had worn the shifter shaft hole in the aluminum cases. The new cases had the right size hole (to fit the bushings) from the factory. Older ones need to be reamed out to the proper size to accept the bushings. If your case doesn't have them, it an older case. If the shift shaft hole in your case is not yet worn out, you don't need the fix yet. If you are unsure, sent your case to one of the people listed on the Strictly Hodaka website that rebuilds cases and they will tell you what needs to be done.

I don't understand why it will shift with the bike not running, but not when it is running. That sounds more like a clutch problem than a shifter problem. Will it shift into 2nd gear while running? Will it shift up nd down through all 5 gears while not running? Check on that and let us know.

[Ridgerunner]

No, it wont shift into second. I did clean the case good and checked for broken parts and the spring looks good looks good. Maybe it isn't positioned correctly.

[Ridgerunner]

The bike is a 75 frame letter G. Would the ratchet shifter spring back and forth if you have the cover in your hand with everything assembled while trying to move it? I can push the shifter guide assembly with my finger back and forth and it clicks as the foot change ratchet plunger works with it. It seems like the foot ratchet change spring is just sitting there though. It doesn't look like its hooked to anything. And with the cover off I can move the control shaft freely in and out. When I do that it will go into at least one gear. There is a little resistance when I push it in. But I am not sure how it is suppose to work.

[dirty_rat]

If it's not shifting into 2nd either, you might not have the shifter sliding pin properly inserted into the shift shaft (the one that moves in and out of the counter shaft). Take the small inspection plate off the shifter case and see if the shifter sliding pin is properly aligned in (between the end shoulders) the shift shaft. If not, the bike won't shift.

[Ridgerunner]

I did check and the sliding pin was properly inserted into the shift shaft.

[dirty_rat]

Does the shifter case shift through all gears when it is removed from the bike? Can you manually slide the control shaft in and out of the counter shaft with the shifter case off? If so, can you feel it selecting gears as you move it in and out?

[BrianZ]

A couple of things about your bike:

The shocks are not stock and neither is the top shock mount. Someone has welded new top shock mounts to the frame. The rear frame loop is bent upwards. It could have been done in a crash or perhaps on purpose to allow the wheel to travel further with the modified rear suspension.

From your description of the way the shifter mechanism is working, it seems like the return spring is broken, installed incorrectly, or the center ratchet spring screw (item 35 on the shifter mechanism parts fiche) is missing. Any of these will prevent the shift lever from returning to center and will also stop the ratchet from working. You will likely have to disassemble the mechanism to fix it.

The shifter mechanism must be correctly adjusted to work correctly. If it is out of adjustment it will not select gears properly. If any of the shifter parts are worn the shifter mechanism will not select gears properly. It sounds like yours needs a tear down, inspection and rebuild.

The ball receiver springs (18 and 19 on parts fiche C) are a weak point as well. They become distorted over time and poor shifting is the result.

Keep the questions coming and the folks here will do their best to help out.

Brian

[Zyx]

Rear hoop looks pretty normal in the photos. You will know if the fender and mount tab don't parallel each other when installed on the tab. If they fit without weird gaps, it's okay.

[Zyx]

Opinions will vary but I would not use the top shock mounts that someone has welded to the frame tubes. The tubes may or may not be stout enough to take the load imposed, and if the shocks bottom hard in that location, you will perhaps bend the frame, or more likely, shear the mounts. The mounts are not installed in line with the load so any hard impact will be at an angle to the welds. If you look at the stock locations, the mounts are a part of a very long, very stout gusset that distributes force over a wide area. I would remove the mounts and clean up the frame hoop, and install stock length shocks. There are a couple of good brands to choose from. Just my personal opinion.

[Ridgerunner]

Thanks guys, I will change out the shocks, and I did figure out the shift mechanism. The shift shaft was not positioned correctly over the spring. It is working good now shifting through gears. When I squeeze the clutch handle the bike does not release the gears though. How do I adjust it to where when I squeeze the handle the bike goes into neutral? After I get this figured out all I need to do is a front fork seal replacement and get a seat and I will be good to ride.

[Zyx]

If you mean pulling the clutch and without the bike running it is hard to push the bike around in gear, that's normal. There is no freewheel effect with the bike in gear clutch pulled. Have to be in neutral to push free. Crank mounted wet clutch drags a lot.

[Ridgerunner]

What I mean is the clutch is not working at all. When the bike is running at a still and I squeeze the clutch to put it in firs gear it doesn't work. I can pop it into gear and it will stall because I cant slowly release the clutch and give it fuel to start moving. I had it running and went of a hill in my back yard and got it in gear and cycled through them with no problem. If I want to down shift into neutral while coming to a quick stop it will stall because I the clutch is not disengaging the gears. How do I adjust the clutch to where when I squeeze the handle it disengages the gears? Also the front forks are pitted around the seals, I dont think a seal replacement is going to help. Can I use different forks?

[Ridgerunner]

I watched a youtube video on adjusting the clutch cable, its not working for me. Basically what I want is if I have it in gear, I want to be able to squeeze the clutch handle and the bike should be able to roll freely. Any suggestions?

[taber hodaka]

when the bikes sit for an extended amount the clutch plates almost freeze or rust to the disks. I think there is a way to prevent this, but it has happened to many of us.-----------Clarence

[Zyx]

There are other forks that work. Several folks here have knowledge. The clutch may be stuck, or may be assembled wrong. Over tightening the clutch nut will cause it to not work. Leaving out the shims between the cover and the clutch hub will leave you with too much slack. Leaving out the thrust button will leave you without a clutch. All simple diagnostic things and easy to fix. You might just want to start with new clutch discs anyway and rebuild it now.

[dirty_rat]

If the bike had been sitting for a long period, there is a good chance the clutch disks have become stuck together. If that is the case, you can sometimes break them loose by getting it in gear while running and hit the rear brake hard. This sometimes breaks them free (but not often). The best way is to take the clutch off and disassemble it. That way you can also check on the conditions of the plates and such. But, before you do that, make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. Does it feel like you are compressing the clutch springs when you pull the lever in? Did it ever work since you have owned the bike, and if so, does it feel the same?

[Zyx]

I watched a youtube video on adjusting the clutch cable, its not working for me. Basically what I want is if I have it in gear, I want to be able to squeeze the clutch handle and the bike should be able to roll freely. Any suggestions?

It won't really do this even when working correctly. It should release enough that the engine won't drive it forward with the clutch in, and you can push it with the clutch in, engine off, but "freely" isn't something it does.