Road Toad 99 Restoration

[hodakachuck]

Hi everyone! I am new here and looking for advice, helpful hints and tips. I bought a Road Toad 99 basket case. 975 miles but had been mostly torn down by a kid who wanted to restore it but never did. I do my own wrenching on my 1987 toyota tercel but have never worked on a bike. I was planning on taking the black painted parts down to have them powder coated. I was wondering how hard it is to reassemble a wheel if I take it apart to have the hub powder coated? Also, I need to disassemble the crankcase and cylinders for powder coating. Anything I should know before I start that process? I'll be happy to post pics of the restore process if anyone is interested. Thank you!

[socalhodaka]

Chuck, first welcome to the group. Please let us know where your at as another Hodaka nut may be close by. Photos would be great to see what your starting with. Join the Hodaka Club for 24 bucks, you will have access to around 20 or so back issue of the club newsletter that have many write ups on restorations. And last, if you can make it to Hodaka Days in a few weeks come.
Kelly

[Zyx]

Powder coating, depends on what part it is. If the cylinder, I wouldnt. Even spray paint is only cosmetic, and in fact traps heat. Powder coating is by nature far thicker. It may look bland, but a bead blasted cast aluminum cylinder will transfer more heat than one painted or coated. So if the cylinder is black and you want it to stay black, get some VHT Barrel Paint and use that. The frame and other none heat parts, your choice.

If you have never laced and trued a spoke wheel, you are in for a treat. They are not technically hard to do, but they are confusing as all get out. Be prepared to spend hours on your first one. They get easier after a few repetitions. If you don't want to learn this trade, take the wheel to a pro shop after having the hubs done and let them put it together for you. And get new spokes and nipples. Using the old ones is rarely a good idea, and most shops won't bother with them anyway. Start with new ones.

[hodakachuck]

Socal, thanks! I am in Bend, Oregon. I have added photos of the state of things for you to check out. 979 miles, not 975. Do you know if there were any restoration write ups on the Road Toad in the newsletters? How do I join? I wanted to bring the Toad to Hodaka days this year but I am getting a late start on the restoration. My winter work was slow and finances got a little tight. Flush now, for the moment anyway! Probably won't make it this year, but you never know. My girl has me pretty busy with house projects this summer.

AZShorty, thank you too! Yes, you are right. I mis-spoke I was planning on a high temp paint on th cylinder and the exhaust. Do you think the crank case needs HT? The cylinder was originally black on the 99's but I will consider going with the bead blasted. I think that is how the 02's were.

I have never laced a wheel but I have trued several bicycle wheels. Did a stint in a bicycle shop a few years ago. Thinking maybe just let a pro tackle that part. Thanks for the new spokes and nipples tip.

Anything tricky about pulling apart the crank case and cylinder or is it pretty straight forward?

[BrianZ]

I am in the middle of a Toad restoration as well. I am lacing my own wheels and while I would prefer to use new spokes and nipples, I have gone the route of having the old ones replated. I have done this on many bikes with no issues. I was in the same position as you before I started relacing wheels, I had trued several bicycle wheels, but had never built a wheel from scratch. It's not that difficult. My suggestion to you would be to take lots of pictures before you take the wheels apart, and buy a good spoke wrench. True the wheels with them installed on the bike in order to make sure the rim is centered. I would be hesitant to powder coat the hubs, as the coating tends to be thick and could reduce the diameter of the spoke holes to the point that the spokes would no longer fit.

As for the engine, it's not that hard to split the cases as long as you have some "mechanical experience". The Toad has a few more parts than earlier Hodakas as it is fitted with oil injection and primary kick start. Take your time and post any questions here; the folks on this board are very helpful.

As for paint, I use Dupli-Color engine paint DE1634 on the engine and hubs. It's a semigloss and very close to the original. I bake it in the oven as per directions to make it more durable.

Brian

[hodakamax]

Welcome Chuck! I recently did a RT rebuild for a friend. I removed the oil injection and went with the blasted "prototype" look. Just another variation. I think it's just me but I never paint anything that I can polish or blast!

Looks like a fun project. Enjoy!

Max

PS--A workshop manual would be good as there are a few tricks and left handed nuts and such. Also if you re-bore the cylinder (probably not at this stage) be aware of Hodaka service bulletin HSB 19 which requires a modification of the exhaust port bridge. Also you'll need a specific flywheel puller. The Gang will help you out if needed!

[hodakachuck]

Max, that looks really cool! I might just have to go with the blasted "prototype" look. I want to use the bike for riding around town a little and riding out on trails and dirt roads during archery season. You mentioned a workshop manual. I have been trying to find one but it seems like there are only owners manuals and parts lists out there. Is that what you mean? Am I missing something?

Definitely need more info on that fly wheel puller. Plan on cracking her open in the next few days.

Thanks for the input everybody!
Chuck

[hodakachuck]

Brian, thanks for the info. That is good to know about painting the hubs. Why did you go with replating spokes amd nipples? Is it that less expensive?

Thanks,
Charles

[hodakamax]

Chuck, It looks like the manual and puller are available on the Strictly Hodaka web site. I try to avoid painting aluminum parts because if you are going to really use the bike, paint will soon be chipped. At least when you refurbish them you don't have to strip them again and then repaint-- ( no small matter on a hub!) Another tip on blasted parts is to keep them sprayed with WD-40. Clean them with hose-off cycle cleaner and re-spray them.

Anyway, I hope this helps.

Max

[BrianZ]

The reason I replate the spokes is, as you have already guessed, cost. There is a group of us that restore motorcycles and we pool all our parts together and send a large parts lot to a local zinc plater. This gets us parts that look just as good as NOS, but at a fraction of the cost. I will also include spare parts I have accumulated over the years. That way I have a selection of spare parts that are ready for future restorations.

Brian

[hodakamax]

Oops, The shop manual may not be available but the puller is. The left handed nut is the clutch assembly and the gang can give torque specs and such if needed.

Max

[socalhodaka]

Chuck, If your bike is not ready you should still come to Hodaka Days. You can join the club for one, meet many other and talk about so many options on your project. I can introduce you to some of the best Hodaka restorers and builders in your area. Also check out my youtube channel called Socalhodaka, I post Hodaka related stuff.

Your here in the right place.
Kelly

[hodakachuck]

Thank you for all the great tips you guys! I didn't realize the hubs were aluminum but that sounds like what you are saying( haven't had time to go out and check. I like the idea of keeping as much unpainted as possible and keeping it simple. I plan on using this bike so that will be best.

Chuck

[socalhodaka]

The best durable raw finish for aluminum I think is the ball burnishing. Forks and hub here.

[hodakamax]

Kelly, I'm unable to locate anyone in my area (SE KS) that does that. What's your source for ball burnishing and do they ship. That does appear the way to go. Have you done any crankcases or side cases with this method?

Max

[socalhodaka]

Kelly, I'm unable to locate anyone in my area (SE KS) that does that. What's your source for ball burnishing and do they ship. That does appear the way to go. Have you done any crankcases or side cases with this method?

Max

Yes we always do the center cases, Im going to do all the cases on the next motor I do. This is also the shop that California Hodaka uses.

Max, in the back issue of the Resonator V2#14 tech tips. Lee Fabry did a write up on it. The shop will ship,

MSI Company
2210 Chico Ave
So El Monte, CA 91733
626-441-1188

[hodakamax]

Thanks Kelly for the info. Wow that engine looks awesome! Gotta try one!

Maxie

PS--Any tips on masking the engine halves?

[socalhodaka]

Thanks Kelly for the info. Wow that engine looks awesome! Gotta try one!

Maxie

PS--Any tips on masking the engine halves?

We bead blast clean, then insert short screws in all the screw holes before the process.

[hodakachuck]

Yes, I agree. That looks Great! Aside from shipping, about how much does getting cases done like that cost? I am going to try and find somewhere in Oregon ,maybe Portland, to get it done. I don't think anyone in Bend does that kind of work but I will keep looking and asking around.

[hodakachuck]

So, as I am looking around for someone local for Ball Burnishing, I have come across a place that does anodizing of aluminum parts. Anybody had any experience with this type of finish? How does it hold up? Pros vs cons? Thanks guys. Charles

[hodakachuck]

Just checked the dates. Sorry I can't make Hodaka Days this year. I have my 6 yr old daughter all that week and we are going to the coast. Been in the works for a while now. I will be there next year. When do the dates come out for 2016? I want to get it on my calendar ASAP so I don't book something else instead. Maybe I can even bring her next year. Are there any activities for kids there? Enjoy! Sounds like a real blast! Charles

[bchappy]

Hodaka Days is always the last Thursday through Sunday of June. So, 2016 would be the 23rd - 26th.