Go Danny! I suggested early on that it could have been the wrong flywheel. I also admit when I'm wrong. I stated earlier that the flywheel was the same from Ace 90 through his model. I assumed that, having never dealt with Dirt Squirts. Hey, I'm not perfect! You have to go with the clues and that oil thing was throwing me off. You always also have to go with the odds. It's like when you have an ignition problem, at least from my experience, there's a 90% chance that it's the spark plug. In a vibration problem I estimated about a 95%+ chance that something's wrong with the crank assembly and Charlie and I agreed that's what is was. Charlie then pointed out the flywheel (again 95%+ chance) and we agreed.
Never in MY experience did I see a cracked frame that could not quickly be isolated as a cause. (I gave it a probability of 10% or less.) When the oil came out of the breather the odds were about 90% it was too full, but I was distracted by our main problem, the vibration. Thinking back, I probably ASSUMED that there was a 90% chance that it was caused by the vibration. I got off track and thought of combinations that filled the needs of both clues. One was that a crack around the 6204 bearing that not only caused vibration was allowing crankcase pressure to enter the gearbox and blow out the breather. I gave that theory about a 40% chance of being right. I had seen the problem before.
When I mentioned early on that it could be the wrong flywheel I estimated that at only 10%. What was lurking in the background was that there was a 95%+ chance it was the flywheel! Distractions take their toll and the proof is not here until the proper flywheel is fitted and tested but I give it a 95% chance of being fixed with the proper replacement
Anyway this is how I think. It hasn't played out yet but this should have been a good learning experience for all of us. It was all big fun, too! (Or at least, will be, when it's over!)
This my friends is why I don't go to the Casino! (Bad odds!!)
Maxie
Vibration at specific rev range
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Oops--I just got your post that it was the right flywheel--Like I say, It hasn't played out yet and my estimation of 95% odds still stands. Whew, I thought I was wrong but I was mistaken. 
Maxie
Maxie
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Well at least some one is still in the running for the beer.
Danny
Danny
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Hey Danny
Glad I got the correct flywheel anyway.
It's not the overall size of the runout that bothers me, it's the fact that the flywheel is clearly tilted on the crank - flywheel and crankshaft are not parallel. But how do I correct this? If I had a perfect crank but a cocked over flywheel, rotating the flywheel to a different position on the crank would simply move the same amount of runout to a different position. However, when I move mine 180 degrees it virtually corrects itself. Shame the points cam runs on the flywheel, otherwise I could put the flywheel in the place to give least runout. My only thought right now is as described earlier - to lap the tapers again, but keep light pressure on the correct part of the flywheel (marked L for low on the photo above) and pushing the flywheel towards the engine, so that the grinding action corrects the problem.
Just had another wild thought? What about going to electronic ignition? If I'm not using the points then I can put the flywheel where I like can't I - anyone know if there is an ignition kit to suit my Dirt Squirt and if my idea will work? Only downside is it's more money. The wife's housekeeping allowance is reducing by the day.
Look forward to hearing what the Hodaka collective brains think about this.
Tim
Glad I got the correct flywheel anyway.
It's not the overall size of the runout that bothers me, it's the fact that the flywheel is clearly tilted on the crank - flywheel and crankshaft are not parallel. But how do I correct this? If I had a perfect crank but a cocked over flywheel, rotating the flywheel to a different position on the crank would simply move the same amount of runout to a different position. However, when I move mine 180 degrees it virtually corrects itself. Shame the points cam runs on the flywheel, otherwise I could put the flywheel in the place to give least runout. My only thought right now is as described earlier - to lap the tapers again, but keep light pressure on the correct part of the flywheel (marked L for low on the photo above) and pushing the flywheel towards the engine, so that the grinding action corrects the problem.
Just had another wild thought? What about going to electronic ignition? If I'm not using the points then I can put the flywheel where I like can't I - anyone know if there is an ignition kit to suit my Dirt Squirt and if my idea will work? Only downside is it's more money. The wife's housekeeping allowance is reducing by the day.
Look forward to hearing what the Hodaka collective brains think about this.
Tim
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
I would think that if all the run out was caused by either the crank or the flywheel individually the amount of error would be the same regardless of flywheel position on the crank. However, if there is a small amount of run out in both parts it would be possible to index the two so run out is minimized. I think that is probably what you are experiencing. Also I am assuming you are measuring in an accurate fashion. If you can see the run out with your eye and you can only measure .14mm that doesn't seem quite right.
Danny
Danny
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Hi Danny
I'm measuring accurately using a dial gauge, so pretty confident of my figures. Can't see any movement - can only measure it. Also, what you describe is correct. As I said, if the crank was perfect but only the flywheel was wrong, then the runout would be the same amount but just move around the crank according to where I position the flywheel. It doesn't do that - I can find a spot where there is almost no runout as you can see from my previous post, so there must be faults with both crank and flywheel. How do I fix that?
Cheers
Tim
I'm measuring accurately using a dial gauge, so pretty confident of my figures. Can't see any movement - can only measure it. Also, what you describe is correct. As I said, if the crank was perfect but only the flywheel was wrong, then the runout would be the same amount but just move around the crank according to where I position the flywheel. It doesn't do that - I can find a spot where there is almost no runout as you can see from my previous post, so there must be faults with both crank and flywheel. How do I fix that?
Cheers
Tim
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Again, the next step is to try another flywheel, there's darn good chance that's what it is. 
Max
Max
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
The flywheel body is a casting. If it is loose on the hub, that would be a problem. But runout as small as you are seeing is just a factoid at this point. Unless someone else with a running bike with no real vibration problems can show that their flywheel shows similar runout, or no runout at all, we have no baseline for comparison. The inside parts are what need to be fairly true, and that's hard to measure. The flying magnets and coils ends need to be roughly in parity to work, which it seems they do.
So if the flywheel is in balance, the runout is immaterial. If you were to mount this wheel on a lathe and true the outside surface, it would probably then be out of balance.
Unless the flywheel is loose on the shaft, it isn't the flywheel.
So if the flywheel is in balance, the runout is immaterial. If you were to mount this wheel on a lathe and true the outside surface, it would probably then be out of balance.
Unless the flywheel is loose on the shaft, it isn't the flywheel.
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
I have never seen a Hodaka flywheel out of balance, only damaged on the mating surfaces including a cracked tapered collar. Both caused severe vibration and/or loosening of the nut. And again we are only measuring run-out while the engine is not running which actually will work on the crank.
To me this means it's the flywheel, let's try one. Charlie made a hard to beat offer on sending you one.
Maxie
To me this means it's the flywheel, let's try one. Charlie made a hard to beat offer on sending you one.
Maxie
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Tim, my opinion at this point is the small amount of run out you are measuring is not enough to cause the problem you described. I think it is with in normal tolerance. Based on your methodical method, I am sure you are aware the further you measure from the point of support the greater any error is magnified. So .001 inch error measured above the point of support might be .005 inch when measured 5 inches out.
For me the flywheel was a concern because of a known issue with the mdl 94 and 95 rivets loosening. But yours is a mdl 96 so that was not a valid concern. I am not aware of any issues of loose rivets on the 100cc engines although I am sure with enough time and use it"might"could happen.
If the flywheel does not have any cracks, breaks, dents, etc. I think it is most likely ok. If you had another flywheel to try it certainly is easy to do.
Personally seems like it is time to start looking else where for the source of the vibration.
Danny
For me the flywheel was a concern because of a known issue with the mdl 94 and 95 rivets loosening. But yours is a mdl 96 so that was not a valid concern. I am not aware of any issues of loose rivets on the 100cc engines although I am sure with enough time and use it"might"could happen.
If the flywheel does not have any cracks, breaks, dents, etc. I think it is most likely ok. If you had another flywheel to try it certainly is easy to do.
Personally seems like it is time to start looking else where for the source of the vibration.
Danny
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
OK Guys, maybe I'm wrong. Am happy to bow to your greater knowledge.
I will keep trying to contact the UK guy with the Hodaka collection to see if I can borrow a flywheel, but if by middle of next week I've had no joy I'll contact you again Charlie - is that OK? Can you send me an email just so that we can arrange payments and addresses. [email protected]
It's the Easter weekend coming up, so I'll go over the frame again and maybe take the steering head apart. Did find the PVL ignition system on Hodaka site though. Looks expensive but if it does away with the flywheel altogether then that removes any doubt.
Cheers
Tim
I will keep trying to contact the UK guy with the Hodaka collection to see if I can borrow a flywheel, but if by middle of next week I've had no joy I'll contact you again Charlie - is that OK? Can you send me an email just so that we can arrange payments and addresses. [email protected]
It's the Easter weekend coming up, so I'll go over the frame again and maybe take the steering head apart. Did find the PVL ignition system on Hodaka site though. Looks expensive but if it does away with the flywheel altogether then that removes any doubt.
Cheers
Tim
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Tim, thanks for the pics. That removes the possibility of wrong flywheel, loose rivets, etc. A photo sometimes can give a lot of info. I probably would not attempt anymore lapping procedures as the taper is designed to have a slight interference fit. Removal of large amounts material isn't really the objective when lapping but rather a "smoothing" of the mating surfaces. If the crankshaft taper or the flywheel bore is damaged to the point where it is the source of the runout, replacement of the affected parts becomes necessary.
Now, with that said, we aren't sure what has been done to this engine during its lifetime. It is possible that somewhere along the line the crankshaft key was replaced with something that was "handy and available". After installation it was found that the key was too tall and caused the flywheel to fit improperly. It was removed and replaced with the proper key but the problem remained due to the flywheel hub being damaged due to forcing the hub over the tall key when torquing the flywheel nut. This scenario is unlikely but is a possibility. Another real possibility is someone trying to remove the flywheel without a proper puller by wedging a prybar/screwdiver under one edge of the flywheel to attempt removal. Hammers have also been used.....
A couple more questions. With the flywheel installed to proper torque specs, is there ANY side-to-side or up and down movement of the crankshaft? With the countershaft nut properly torqued to spec is there ANY side-to-side or up and down movement? While a bit of a pain, it might be worthwhile to remove the clutch cover and check for proper torque specs and also check for ANY S/S-U/D movement of the clutch assembly or primary gear.
I apologize for the long winded post but while I still believe the issue is flywheel related, there are other things that should be checked that doesn't require complete dis-assembly of the engine. I hope that your friend has a known good flywheel to swap with your current flywheel and key so that we can confirm or remove the flywheel from the list of culprits.
Now, with that said, we aren't sure what has been done to this engine during its lifetime. It is possible that somewhere along the line the crankshaft key was replaced with something that was "handy and available". After installation it was found that the key was too tall and caused the flywheel to fit improperly. It was removed and replaced with the proper key but the problem remained due to the flywheel hub being damaged due to forcing the hub over the tall key when torquing the flywheel nut. This scenario is unlikely but is a possibility. Another real possibility is someone trying to remove the flywheel without a proper puller by wedging a prybar/screwdiver under one edge of the flywheel to attempt removal. Hammers have also been used.....
A couple more questions. With the flywheel installed to proper torque specs, is there ANY side-to-side or up and down movement of the crankshaft? With the countershaft nut properly torqued to spec is there ANY side-to-side or up and down movement? While a bit of a pain, it might be worthwhile to remove the clutch cover and check for proper torque specs and also check for ANY S/S-U/D movement of the clutch assembly or primary gear.
I apologize for the long winded post but while I still believe the issue is flywheel related, there are other things that should be checked that doesn't require complete dis-assembly of the engine. I hope that your friend has a known good flywheel to swap with your current flywheel and key so that we can confirm or remove the flywheel from the list of culprits.
Charlie R.
Broken Arrow, OK
Broken Arrow, OK
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Bullfrog
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
It looks like I've moved to the front of the line for buying beers - frame is not broken. 
Tim - there is no need to disassemble the steering head. A check for looseness/binding might be in order -- but disassemble only if a problem is found. With the bike on a box and front end not in contact with the ground - do the handle bars move from lock-to-lock easily and without binding?
With the bike on the ground and you straddling the bike. Place a finger along the "joint" between the lower triple clamp and the bearing race pressed in the frame. With the other hand, pull "on" the front brake hard. Now compress the forks as fully as you can using momentum/weight transfer - kind of "working" the front suspension as hard as you can. Do you feel any freeplay at the "joint"? If so, adjust as needed.
I too would recommend that you stop lapping. Charlie's advice was spot on.
I also have my doubts that the eccentricity you have recorded for the flywheel is the cause of the vibration. 0.1mm is only 0.004" (about the thickness of one sheet of cheap copy paper) -- probably fully within the allowable (and achievable?) mass production tolerance.
Now that I MUST move away from suspecting frame breaks -- I'm interested in the results of the hand check for up/down and fore/aft freeplay of the flywheel and clutch (a check for bearing or bearing boss damage/wear). I'm also interested in your observations when the engine is run in neutral with the bike stationary and magneto cover removed. What do you see/feel in that situation?
Ed
PS: I've ridden bikes (including Dirt Squirts) with loose steering head bearings. They did not exhibit severe vibration.
Tim - there is no need to disassemble the steering head. A check for looseness/binding might be in order -- but disassemble only if a problem is found. With the bike on a box and front end not in contact with the ground - do the handle bars move from lock-to-lock easily and without binding?
With the bike on the ground and you straddling the bike. Place a finger along the "joint" between the lower triple clamp and the bearing race pressed in the frame. With the other hand, pull "on" the front brake hard. Now compress the forks as fully as you can using momentum/weight transfer - kind of "working" the front suspension as hard as you can. Do you feel any freeplay at the "joint"? If so, adjust as needed.
I too would recommend that you stop lapping. Charlie's advice was spot on.
I also have my doubts that the eccentricity you have recorded for the flywheel is the cause of the vibration. 0.1mm is only 0.004" (about the thickness of one sheet of cheap copy paper) -- probably fully within the allowable (and achievable?) mass production tolerance.
Now that I MUST move away from suspecting frame breaks -- I'm interested in the results of the hand check for up/down and fore/aft freeplay of the flywheel and clutch (a check for bearing or bearing boss damage/wear). I'm also interested in your observations when the engine is run in neutral with the bike stationary and magneto cover removed. What do you see/feel in that situation?
Ed
PS: I've ridden bikes (including Dirt Squirts) with loose steering head bearings. They did not exhibit severe vibration.
Keep the rubber side down!
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[email protected]
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Hello All
Just came back from the garage - more checking.
There is no up/down/side to side or in and out movement I can detect on either the flywheel or the clutch. All seems solid. When I start the bike with side cover off it's very difficult to see what's actually happening at low revs. However, there could be some off-centre movement at tick-over and just above, but as soon as I rev the bike the flywheel looks totally solid as it spins. However, when I put a gloved hand on the top of the cylinder and revved it to the vibration point (out of gear) I could feel the vibration through my hand on the cylinder and no amount of pushing or pulling at the cylinder/engine made any difference to the amount of vibration I was feeling through the seat or the handle bars.
I'd really like to try a different flywheel to see if it makes a difference. I get what you guys are saying about the runout on the flywheel being quite a small amount, but because the flywheel isn't parallel on the crank I still wonder if this is causing the vibration. What else is possible? If the runout measured say 0.07mm across all three measuring points then I'd agree - no problem. But because the runout gets greater towards the edge of the flywheel I'm thinking this might create an off-centre tilt to the flywheel which could just resonate with the frame of the bike and cause the problem?
Still waiting for my UK contact to call me but if I don't get a response after the weekend I'll be back on to you to borrow your flywheel Charlie. One obvious question, if your flywheel makes the difference would you sell it? How much?
All the best and thanks for your continued interest. Hope you're not getting too bored with this subject.
Tim
Just came back from the garage - more checking.
There is no up/down/side to side or in and out movement I can detect on either the flywheel or the clutch. All seems solid. When I start the bike with side cover off it's very difficult to see what's actually happening at low revs. However, there could be some off-centre movement at tick-over and just above, but as soon as I rev the bike the flywheel looks totally solid as it spins. However, when I put a gloved hand on the top of the cylinder and revved it to the vibration point (out of gear) I could feel the vibration through my hand on the cylinder and no amount of pushing or pulling at the cylinder/engine made any difference to the amount of vibration I was feeling through the seat or the handle bars.
I'd really like to try a different flywheel to see if it makes a difference. I get what you guys are saying about the runout on the flywheel being quite a small amount, but because the flywheel isn't parallel on the crank I still wonder if this is causing the vibration. What else is possible? If the runout measured say 0.07mm across all three measuring points then I'd agree - no problem. But because the runout gets greater towards the edge of the flywheel I'm thinking this might create an off-centre tilt to the flywheel which could just resonate with the frame of the bike and cause the problem?
Still waiting for my UK contact to call me but if I don't get a response after the weekend I'll be back on to you to borrow your flywheel Charlie. One obvious question, if your flywheel makes the difference would you sell it? How much?
All the best and thanks for your continued interest. Hope you're not getting too bored with this subject.
Tim
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Tim, I'm not worried about getting the flywheel back if it takes care of your most interesting situation. I'll shoot you an email later this evening for shipping info.
Charlie R.
Broken Arrow, OK
Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Charlie, you're a nice Hodaka person.
Maxie
Maxie
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Bullfrog
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
OK. I've seen the last bit of information needed for me to feel comfortable with a new diagnosis which has been developing ever-increasing support for several days now.
I should have mentioned earlier that I don't consider oil frothing to be any kind of indicator of engine vibration. There are enough spinning parts and rapidly meshing gear teeth to cause oil frothing if the oil is "frothable". Vibration would be only a minor contributor to an oil frothing problem. Oil frothing is an oil problem . . . not an indication of a vibration problem. In addition, oil coming out the vent indicates A) over filling or B) a leak from the crankcase into the clutch/transmission cavity (or both). Oil frothing is an oil problem . . . not a vibration problem
So, getting back to the new diagnosis . . .
What we have been told:
1 The crankshaft is true (rebuilt and measured to be true)
2 The main bearings and bearing bosses are good (no up/down, fore/aft movement of flywheel or clutch)
3 The clutch works (no broken parts causing imbalance)
4 The flywheel dial indicates as being quite reasonably true (not enough eccentricity to cause any significant problem)
5 The flywheel is visually "solid" (no dancing around or wobble) with engine running (confirming items 2 and 4)
6 The engine mounts are not cracked/broken
7 The engine mount bolts are tight
8 The frame is not cracked/broken
Therefore, assuming the above information is correct, I am left to conclude that Tim is quite concerned about vibration which is normal for a single cylinder two-stroke engine. I would suggest finding someone with experience aboard vintage two stroke motorcycles to take a spin on your bike.
Single cylinder engines are not electric motors or turbines -- or multi-cylinder road bike engines with spinning harmonic balancers. Single cylinder engines um, well, they vibrate . . . all of them. And they are smoother at some engine speeds than at others.
Ed
I should have mentioned earlier that I don't consider oil frothing to be any kind of indicator of engine vibration. There are enough spinning parts and rapidly meshing gear teeth to cause oil frothing if the oil is "frothable". Vibration would be only a minor contributor to an oil frothing problem. Oil frothing is an oil problem . . . not an indication of a vibration problem. In addition, oil coming out the vent indicates A) over filling or B) a leak from the crankcase into the clutch/transmission cavity (or both). Oil frothing is an oil problem . . . not a vibration problem
So, getting back to the new diagnosis . . .
What we have been told:
1 The crankshaft is true (rebuilt and measured to be true)
2 The main bearings and bearing bosses are good (no up/down, fore/aft movement of flywheel or clutch)
3 The clutch works (no broken parts causing imbalance)
4 The flywheel dial indicates as being quite reasonably true (not enough eccentricity to cause any significant problem)
5 The flywheel is visually "solid" (no dancing around or wobble) with engine running (confirming items 2 and 4)
6 The engine mounts are not cracked/broken
7 The engine mount bolts are tight
8 The frame is not cracked/broken
Therefore, assuming the above information is correct, I am left to conclude that Tim is quite concerned about vibration which is normal for a single cylinder two-stroke engine. I would suggest finding someone with experience aboard vintage two stroke motorcycles to take a spin on your bike.
Single cylinder engines are not electric motors or turbines -- or multi-cylinder road bike engines with spinning harmonic balancers. Single cylinder engines um, well, they vibrate . . . all of them. And they are smoother at some engine speeds than at others.
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
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[email protected]
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Hi Ed
So you mean I caused all this discussion for nothing??
I'd be quite prepared to believe this is true except that both Roger Lippiat and Paul Stanard have told me that Dirt Squirts should be pretty smooth through the rev range. I've ridden old two strokes plenty of times, including the oldest Moto Morini 125t in the UK (1954) and none of them had this very specific vibration point, especially not when decelerating as well as during acceleration. My wife is not really into bikes, but I started the Hodaka up today and asked her to put on some thick gloves and pull/push various bits on the bike but it made no difference to the vibration. However, she did say that she didn't think she could put up with riding the bike with all the vibration. Just for fun I loosened the front engine mount bolt to see what that was like. The vibration was much greater and throughout the whole rev range, but not the same as the vibration when the bolt was tightened.
I'm still of the opinion that as the flywheel is tipped/tilted off-centre, it could cause a small vibration that happens to resonate with the whole frame assembly at certain revs. I'll look out for your email Charlie and then we can see what a known working flywheel does on my bike.
Just so you know I'm not being paranoid, when accelerating up through the rev range in say fourth, the vibration point is such that the bike struggles to get through it. My only course of action is to drop a gear to get above the vibration point. My take on this is that the vibration is sapping power.
All the best guys - I'll let you know when I've tried the new flywheel. For now is back to my 1958 Moto Guzzi Lodola OHC. Lucky to have two toys to play with I guess.
Tim
So you mean I caused all this discussion for nothing??
I'd be quite prepared to believe this is true except that both Roger Lippiat and Paul Stanard have told me that Dirt Squirts should be pretty smooth through the rev range. I've ridden old two strokes plenty of times, including the oldest Moto Morini 125t in the UK (1954) and none of them had this very specific vibration point, especially not when decelerating as well as during acceleration. My wife is not really into bikes, but I started the Hodaka up today and asked her to put on some thick gloves and pull/push various bits on the bike but it made no difference to the vibration. However, she did say that she didn't think she could put up with riding the bike with all the vibration. Just for fun I loosened the front engine mount bolt to see what that was like. The vibration was much greater and throughout the whole rev range, but not the same as the vibration when the bolt was tightened. I'm still of the opinion that as the flywheel is tipped/tilted off-centre, it could cause a small vibration that happens to resonate with the whole frame assembly at certain revs. I'll look out for your email Charlie and then we can see what a known working flywheel does on my bike.
Just so you know I'm not being paranoid, when accelerating up through the rev range in say fourth, the vibration point is such that the bike struggles to get through it. My only course of action is to drop a gear to get above the vibration point. My take on this is that the vibration is sapping power.
All the best guys - I'll let you know when I've tried the new flywheel. For now is back to my 1958 Moto Guzzi Lodola OHC. Lucky to have two toys to play with I guess.
Tim
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
That much vibration can froth your fuel making a temporary lean condition, which may be why it struggles to get through it. I thought the flywheel was checked independently for balance, and that watching it with the cover off, it runs true.
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Bullfrog
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Well, if all those 8 things are OK . . . there should be no shake.
If there is a radical shake, then one of those 8 things is wrong.
While I still have my doubts that the flywheel is the problem based on the information provided . . . it is certainly the prime suspect and your best bet for a resolution.
Ed
If there is a radical shake, then one of those 8 things is wrong.
While I still have my doubts that the flywheel is the problem based on the information provided . . . it is certainly the prime suspect and your best bet for a resolution.
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Trust me----I'm ready for my beer 
Guess who--
Hope I don't have to eat a crow. (Tim, that's what you have to do when you're wrong in the U.S. of A.)
Guess who--
Hope I don't have to eat a crow. (Tim, that's what you have to do when you're wrong in the U.S. of A.)
Last edited by hodakamax on Fri Apr 10, 2015 5:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
We should find out soon. I sent Tim a known good flywheel and key. Remember, make mine unsweet tea. (or light salt on my crow!)
Charlie R.
Broken Arrow, OK
Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Thanks for pitching in and sticking with me to the end Charlie! I'll buy you all the tea you can drink when, not if, we win! I hate crow.
Maxie
Ed, still time to change your bet, sounds like you're starting to agree.--what is it , crow or beer?
Maxie
Ed, still time to change your bet, sounds like you're starting to agree.--what is it , crow or beer?
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taber hodaka
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
I like peppermint tea so I will say crankshaft or clutch side.
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Bullfrog
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Re: Vibration at specific rev range
Seems to me that the horses have left the gate. It's too late to change my bet.
Ed
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
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