Wombat neutral

[79wombat]

having problems getting my wombat in neutral just stays in gear what am I doing wrong???

[Zyx]

Does it shift from gear or gear, or stay in one gear?

[Zyx]

Things to check:

1) shift ratchet still attached to shift rod. Remove inspection cover and verify that the arm is captured by the slotted ball on the end of the rod.

2) clutch disengaging fully. Check end play on the clutch lever on the right side case cover. Without tension on the cable there should be something like 3/8 free play between actuator fully released so it touches the cover, and the point where all slack is taken up.

In the event the shift rod is no longer tracking the shift arm, remove the left side cover completely. Clean and lubricate all of the shift ratchet components and verify things move smoothly. With the chain off or with the rear wheel lifted off the ground, slowly rotate the countershaft sprocket while pulling or pushing on the shift rod. It should move from gear to gear with very little effort if the gears are turning inside or while the countershaft is being turned by hand. If things are free to move, just put it back together. There is an adjustment regimen for indexing the shift ratchet, but it is best to follow directions in the repair manual for this. Use a dab of grease on the contact between shift rod and ratchet arm.

In the event the clutch is adjusted externally within reason, but it still won't release, I believe the best route is to drain the oil and remove the clutch side cover. If the arm needs adjusting, you will need to remove it anyway, and change the shim stack under the clutch button. If adjusted right and no shims needed, remove and rebuild the clutch, looking for notchy edges in the clutch basket, broken or cracked discs, or discs stuck together. If the clutch is hanging and keeping running pressure on the gear set, it is really tough to find neutral no matter what you do. Rebuilding the clutch is most likely to fix this. There is also a bushing on the clutch side crank shaft that runs under the pinion. This can gall and stick, which will interfere with free release of the clutch. If you get this far, be careful putting it back together that you do not over tighten the clutch nut, which will tend to swell that bushing and cause it to stick. Torque specs are on the website and the nut is left threaded.

Report back on what you find.

[79wombat]

It's like we lost it all together light come on but still in gear

[79wombat]

It's like we lost it all together light come on but still in gear

[Zyx]

Does it act differently if the motor is not running? Does it actually shift through all five gears? Disregarding any neutral indicator, does it have a neutral position anywhere between first and fifth gear, running or not running?

All gears are meshed all the time. Neutral such as it is is only a spot between first and second where the spring loaded ball inside the countershaft is not actually in contact with any of the balls residing within the countershaft. I could understand if the countershaft balls were jammed with crud and would not retract, but then I would expect you to have only one gear, or a jammed transmission that would not allow the bike to run at all, or would otherwise make gear selection very hit or miss.

The best way to verify function is statically, with the motor off. Don't worry about the light. Get the bike up on a crate, pull off the shift side cover, and run the shaft in and out by hand while rocking the sprocket back and forth, or with the chain still on, rocking the rear wheel back and forth. The shaft has to go from fully out to fully in to work at all. Fully out is first. Just a bit back toward second is where neutral hides. You can actually achieve a neutral between all gears by careful manipulation of the shaft. Try it and tell us what you find.