Kick Start Lever or Coupler Needed!

[viclioce]

OK. So as I stated in the frustrated thread, the splines on the coupler of my Model 03 kickstart lever are stripped & so is the tap for the bolt. So the coupler won't stay securely tightened on the kick shaft.

Does anyone have a kickstart lever they can part with? Since this is a Model 94 bottom end, I'd be interested in ANYTHING which will work! Turns out this was the issue from the beginning. So if anyone can help me out, let me know how much with shipping to Santa Fe, NM 87507!

Thanks in advance!

; D Victor

[viclioce]

OK as an alternative, can someone tell me which kickstart levers would be interchangeable on a Model 94 (serial number based) kickshaft? I need to replace this thing. Ther are several varieties of kickstart levers listed on eBay. Can you tell me by Bike model (i.e. Road Toad, Ace100, Dirt Squirt, Combat Wombat), and I have what I believe to be the Model 03 kickshaft currently. Help PLEASE!!!!!!!

[olddogs]

If you are using an 03 frame, I think a late model Road Toad and Dirt Squirt will work. The only difference is the length of the part your foot goes on. The 03 is wider than the 100s for a better fit to you boot. A model 94 Wombat can be made to work but you have to do some grinding on the arm to clear the foot peg and brake lever.
The model 97 and 98 later super rat and super combat will also work, but these may touch the pipe. A 250 ed or sl will work, but they rest tilted farther forward. The splined part of the shaft was consistent through the years. The late Toad/Squirt are easy to find.

[viclioce]

Thanks OLDDOGS! I found one for An old Road Toad. A bit shorter in overall length, but the splines were in good shape, and the price was only $14.99, shipping included! Appreciate the input!!! ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Well, the kickstart lever I got fit on the shaft, but it doesn't clear the swing arm! Arghhh! Now I need to find one that will fit. Can someone please tell me what will fit AND clear the swing arm? This is the one I bought. ; / Victor

[admin]

The kicker in the photo is not for a Road Toad nor an 03 Wombat. The kick shaft diameter and broach was the same throughout the entire Hodaka run.
I hope this helps
Paul

[olddogs]

This is a picture of an Ace or Early Wombat kicker. Your other post said you found a Road Toad kicker, which will work. You just got the wrong one. I will look in my parts bin and if I find one that will work I will send it to you.

[olddogs]

I did some digging and found a very, very nice kicker from a Road Toad that will work on your bike. If you post your address I will donate it to the cause of getting this bike back on the road. Your are aware you have an external kick start spring that has to be properly indexed into the kick start lever to make it return properly. This is easiest with the clutch cover off so you can install the kicker in the forward position and then wind it back, then install the clutch cover.

[viclioce]

Ok. I ordered a kickstart from Strictly Hodaka. Here's a photo of the old & new. The new one is on the left, the old one is on the right. Is there a way to make the new one work with my Model 03 frame or is it clearly the wrong one? Advise please. Should I return it and try again to get the same one? Part numbers don't seem to be directing me correctly....

[olddogs]

It will work. That is the correct one for your frame.

[Zyx]

Your old one looks like my Super Combat kick start. Some of the newer 125 frames were an inch wider on each side compared to the old one. Engine in the same place, the wider frame needs more lateral clearance in the kick start lever. In your photo, one uses bent leg to get the clearance, the other uses a swing out assembly. Don't throw the old one away. Maybe I can convince it to work again. I like to tinker.

[viclioce]

The splines are worn out on the old one, as are the threads for the bolt which tightens it. I don't think it can be fixed any more.

The bigger question is, can I make the new one I purchased work on my Model 03? It seems to have clearance issues. Or am I just looking at it incorrectly? Or should I call on Monday, tell them it isn't the correct one and try to order a kickstart lever like my old one?

[Zyx]

Mount it up and try it. As for being stripped, no problem. Can fix that, it just isn't economical to do so, but it is fun to tinker.

[eichco1]

If I remember correctly, this is an 03 frame with a non injected (94/95/97) 125 motor.

If so, that is why the 03 kicker on the left won't work. The 03 motors are wider, so the knuckle on the bottom of the kicker is shorter. That is why you are not clearing the frame.

The kicker on the right looks like a 97/98 model. If it worked fine before, I would go ahead and swap out the 03 kicker for a 97/98 kicker.

Mark in Illinois
# 492

[admin]

Hi Vic this is Paul from Strictly Hodaka. The part you ordered was a 994700 kicker along with some exhaust springs.
The kicker we sent that is shown in the photo you provided is in fact the correct kicker you ordered.
One of the hardest parts about selling parts is all the changes that have been made to the models over all these years.
We have tried our best to help the customer to identify what they have with our identification page, video's, spec sheets etc..We have all been working every week here to take all new hi-res photos of each and every product so that there is a photo with every item on the website for sale. But considering there were over 10,000 Hodaka parts and we have added to that by offering bundles and special packages along with items Hodaka never did sell we are up to close to 12,000 photos.
Anyway if there is a problem with your kicker and your engine is not that for the (03) Wombat please call Kaity at 802-375-0212 to make arrangements for returning the kicker we had sent to you.
Thanks
Paul

[viclioce]

OK Paul! I'm not sure what the issue is. Maybe Im just looking at it wrong. What I know is I have a Model 03 frame and a model 94 motor. I don't even know if the kickstart lever I have is original to the bike. If the one you sent me will work, please tell me what I need to do to make it work. It appears to be configured backwards compared with the one I have. The foot rest mounts under my exhaust pipe which prohibits it from rotating rearward during the kickstart process. I think the problem is the parts microfiche tends to use the same images and only specifies differing part numbers. Had there been an actual photo, I probably would have contacted you by phone first to make sure we would match up the part correctly the first time. It may be the correct part number ordered, but alas, it will not work with this motorcycle. It won't clear the exhaust pipe for a clean downstroke.

It appears s to be stated by another member that the kickstart lever in my picture showing the two is one for a model 97/98? If this is the case, can you call me tomorrow and let me know if you have one of these available, or if you are confident of one which will work? Thanks for your help! ; ) Victor

[viclioce]

If the pIcture in the parts fiche is correct, it looks like I need a kickstart lever for a Model 97. It seems to match the one on my bike. I will need both the kickstart lever, #36 & the bolt #37 to complete my purchase! Call me on Tuesday when you return to the shop! I left my number with Kaity. ; ) Victor

[Zyx]

The one that was on your bike is for a model 97/98 Super Combat/Super Rat. The fact that it works doesn't definitely prove it is correct for the model you have, as several are likely to work.

You have given us some factual limitations, such as hits your footpeg ( they all tend to do that at some point in the stroke) and so on. What might help here are some photos of what you have showing what problems you see. Frame number, motor number, and right side aspect of the bike where the kick start mounts, from one or two angles so we can see the perspective, and see what it is that the new lever is hitting.

The motocross style kicker used on the 97/98 have a lot of swing out clearance, but even they will bottom on the footpeg in the stock location. If your footpegs are not in the original position, that could be a fitment issue no one would be able to predict.

As for being backwards, I think none of the Hodaka's used a direction of mounting the kickstart lever that is different from other models. They all mount the same way. The lever is not all that easy to mount with the side cover on because you have to preload the spring, which is tough. It can be done, but it isn't easy. The lever has to go on clocked at about four or five o'clock, and then wound anti clockwise. With the side case installed, you really can't just mount the lever at the four o'clock and rotate to the left. Instead you have to manhandle the spring and get it into the detent hole. Under a load this is a problem.

But before you tear into anything, post some pictures of what you face so we can figure it out.

[Zyx]

Oh, and the diagram sketches are remarkably accurate. Hodaka did not simply reuse diagrams and change the numbers around. Instead, several models look remarkably similar because they are. While not photographically detailed, the diagrams are quite usable and always have been. I have built frame modifications based on nothing more than the diagrams to guide placement of tubes, brackets, and parts. If the diagram for your model seems off, let's see what you have and go from there.

Using photos in the parts diagrams would only be as accurate as the person taking and posting them, so no guarantee that photos would be better than the diagrams. Someone in Japan spent hours drafting the books for these a long time ago, and the Japanese are nothing if not detail oriented.

[Zyx]

Comparing the 03 kick start lever with that of the 97? They pivot from opposite sides of the connector neck, but mount exactly the same way. Start without the spring and test fit everything, and see if that makes a difference in verifying fitment. Look for the spring hole in the kick lever mount, and put that toward the engine, wiggle it onto the shaft, and push it through a stroke. See if it fits. If it does, you can work on the spring. But I would not be surprised to see it contact the peg at the bottom of the stroke.

[viclioce]

OK. How do I tell when the kickstart lever is in the right position for the bolt to pass through and tighten down the splines? I had a problem with the bolt. It appears to not be clearing the kickshaft at the space between the splines. The motor is in the frame, so it's hard to see down inside the hole for the bolt.

Can someone tell me if the lever needs to be firmly against the spring cover or should there be a bit of space between them? I already messed up the screw which Paul sent me with the lever (see attached photo). And yes, it would go in fine when it was off the shaft. Any tips would be appreciated.

Do I need to drain the oil again and pull the clutch cover with the motor off the bike? Or is there some trick someone knows to help me get this aligned properly so the screw will seat and tighten properly? Thanks!
(Damn! If I can get this tightened down properly I could actually ride this beast!). ; D Victor

[Zyx]

The kick shaft is grooved, splines inboard and outboard of that groove. The bolt runs through the groove, so the lever assembly needs to be seated until the groove lines up with the bolt hole.

[viclioce]

Well, your point is a given. My question is, HOW? It's not easily seen, can't do it by feel and it keeps screwing up the bolts. You've kind of overstated the obvious here. I'm looking for a way to actually succeed at the task.

Is it done visually through the hole? If so, do I need to remove the engine from the frame again to facilitate this? I thought my question was pretty specific....... ; D Victor

[Zyx]

Sorry for being Captain Obvious, but it is what it is. If the kick shaft end play is correctly set, there should be very little end play, so you should be able to bump the assembly into position without a lot of fuss. Actually, it should more or less slip on, in which case with the bolt partly inserted, you can feel the bolt slide in when the groove is aligned. Having never had a problem with one I hadn't given the process a lot of thought. If you have to force the bolt to turn, it isn't right. Assuming you tried screwing in the bolt with the assembly off the bike and the threads are all good and so on. The rest is just alignment. Don't force the bolt. It should have taken a fair amount of force to strip the threads as shown. Instead, it should start with fingers only, and if not, keep working on the in and out alignment until it slips in and threads freely. I suppose you can't see it but you shouldn't have to.

I am curious how you are getting the assembly on the shaft, spring engaged, and preloaded. It takes some doing with the side cover on, and perhaps the binding of the return spring is making it difficult to align everything. The simplest way is to attach the lever with the side cover off and no spring pressure to deal with until it is bolted on. However, it may not be convenient to remove the cover. Perhaps you need to try to get some of the spring pressure off the lever base, perhaps with a thin screwdriver to hold the return spring in the loaded position. That might help get the lever base all the way in over the splines.

[Zyx]

Try this: take the return spring and cover off the shaft and see if you can install the assembly without the alignment issues. If it goes on easily with the spring off, and won't go on with the spring on, it is the spring that is giving you fits. You will need to find a way to prewind the spring and then hold it under tension so that it does not exert winding force on the lever base. You should then be able to get the assembly all the way onto the shaft. The fact that you stripped threads on the clamp bolt suggests to me that you we're almost there to begin with, with maybe half or two thirds of the groove aligned. It should only take another 1/16 to 1/8 inch to make it fit.