Electrical wiring woes!

[viclioce]

OK. As I may have stated in a previous post, the PO of this FRANKENBIKE butchere'd the crap out of the wiring harness. It's still a model 03 harness, best I can tell but so much is whacked off its tough to make sense of things.

I have a green & brown wire going from he main harness to the steering head. The PO was using these to power a single filament enduro style headlight. The high/low beam switch needed solder repair which is done and so is the horn button.

There are 4 wires coming off the dual purpose switch, yellow & brown for the hi/low and light blue & black for the horn button. First question is, how do I connect the horn? It has red & black wires with bullet connectors. I am assuming the black is ground and goes to the black on the switch. The schematic shows the red connecting back to the battery for power. This bike has no battery. And I will have the same issue its the rear brake switch. So I could use some ideas as to how to get 6v power to the horn and make the switch work. I think the PO was using the horn switch as a kill button.... More to come, let's address this first if we can.

All turn signals, lights, brake switches, and the purple &pink portions of the wiring harness were gone as well as the OEM headlight, bucket & AC/DC switch. I see on the schematic that the horn, headlight and turn signals are all Interconnected but all of that interconnecting wiring is gone. So maybe some ideas for double or triple bullet connector feeds for power?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I'm not afraid, just at a loss with so much gone and really don't want to replace the whole harness as the motor doesn't have two magneto coils. ; D Victor

[Dale]

Victor, First start with a connector kit from Vintage Connections. You can make perfect connections easily the first time and everytime. And, this kit is perfect for our Hodaka wire size. Order the kit that includes the double and triple connectors.

Here is the link:
http://vintageconnections.com/

Invest in this upfront and your wiring tasks will become simple.
Dale

[viclioce]

OK. I followed the link but it takes me to the home page. Which kit is it that you reccomend? : D Victor

[Dale]

Select the "kits" tab and look at either CK-1 OR CK-2 with the crimp tool.

[dcooke007]

Hey Victor, battery / dc voltage is supplied to the horns red wire and the black wire does connect to the black wire on the horn switch and provides ground when the horn button is pressed.

My question is what are your plans for this bike? Are you planning to return the bike to street legal / original condition? Are you just desiring a working single element headlamp with tail and stop lamp? Battery? Horn?

This will help us to give you the simplest answer.

Danny Cooke

[viclioce]

Since its a Model 03 frame, a model 94 bottom end and a model 95 top end, my desire is to just make it street legal. Need and have an OEM headlight, an OEM born, a small mudflap style, dual filament enduro tail light and a rear brake light switch which I have adapted from another motorcycle. If I can get all these functional, then I should be abLe to get it approved for street registration. I am not anticipating putting a battery in this bike.

I do want my daughter and grandson to be able to learn on it for riding on the road, but also want to have some off road fun with her as well. ; D Victor

[viclioce]

Am I going to need a separate lighting coil or can I make things work with just the single coil on board? If so, please give me some pointers as to how I can accomplish this. Thanks! ; D Victor

[Dale]

Victor,
Are you in possesion of the Hodaka Workshop Manual (specific to Wombat and Combat Wombat)? If not, it is a must. I will paste a link to it below.

You said that the bottom end was a model 94 Wombat. If so, there should be 3 coils on the stator plate. Upper left would be the Exciting Coil for the ignition circuit. Bottom would be Lighting Coil A and upper right would be Lighting Coil B. If you are not going to have a battery or an emergency switch on the headlight bucket, then your wiring and also your lighting coil requirements are going to be custom.

The wiring diagram is included in the Workshop Manual along with various pictures. You can also find wiring diagrams for various models at StrictlyHodaka.com under Technical Tips.

Hodaka Workshop Manual:
http://www.strictlyhodaka.com/ProductDe ... ode=209004

Hope this helps some,
Dale

[rlkarren]

I'll chime in...

If you only have one lighting coil, your max output in Watts is about 20W. You could probably wire it just like the Ace 90. The problem here is: Your headlight cannot be more than 15 watts because your tail/stop light will suck up the other 5W.

In my opinion, I would recommend restoring the stator and wiring harness as originally intended. I know it will cost a little more $$, but I think your time and sanity is worth at least that much. Since you have a model 94 bottom end, use the model 94a wiring diagram, since you will undoubtedly will need turn signals.

$0.02

Roger

[viclioce]

Dale. Yes I have a shop manual. I've studied the wiring diagram repeatedly. But not having all the wires on the harness makes it difficult to know what other wires can be tapped as power sources. I did figure out an alternative yesterday for wiring up the horn. But I won't have confirmation that it will work until I can get a replacement kickstart lever since mine is stripped. With no battery and cables, there's no way for me to "test" the horn until the motor is running.

Roger. Thanks for the voltage info. I can check my "eBay find" headlight and see what voltage the lamp is. I don't plan on adding turn signals back on as they are not Mandatory in NM for street legal use. Hand signals are acceptable. Additionally, it would mean adding additional mounting points like a rear rack to make it worth while adding the signals. And since I've figured out where to power the horn, I can now do the same with the brake light switch. I do need to change out the tail light bulb because without thinking, I put a 12v lamp in there instead of the 6v variety!

I have the wiring diagram for both the Model '03 & the 94A so my issues are not knowing "alternatives" for power sources. I may consider adding the second circuit to the stator, but at this point, I really don't want to Invest the time or resources in replacing the entire wiring harness. I'm not after a factory restore. Just a functional rider. ; D Victor

[rlkarren]

Victor,

You may benefit from this topic: http://www.hodakaforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1196

If all you need is Head/Tail/horn/stop, you might go 100% AC. If you had a 15W headlight, I think you can get away with a single coil. You would have to re-wire things though... But I think you've consigned yourself to doing that anyway.

Like I told Danny, if I get some time this weekend, I'll take a look at the diagrams and determine how to wire for single coil.

Roger

[viclioce]

Roger, I started following this as well yesterday as it posted right after my post here. Saw it almost immediately.

First thing I need to find out is the wattage rating of my headlight. I'm assuming this is stamped on the back of the lamp housing? A couple of screws off will make it easy enough to check.

The second thing I need to know, as this headlight assembly is not original to the bike (I'm not even sure if it's a Wombat headlamp unit of any fashion!) and make a determination as to which colored wires are ground, high beam & low beam. The three colors on the lamp are, green, blue & what appears to be a faded white. Positionally, the white is in the center with the blue & green flanking either side. Oh and I just verified the headlamp is 6v 35/25w as it is marked. So I'm probably screwed having just the one coil on the stator and will need to add the second. Though it may at least keep the bike powered well enough because the headlight needs to be on all the time in NM while on the roadway. I could easily add an on/off toggle switch on the bucket where The AC/DC switch was located, allowing me to turn the lamp off when not needed off road. There is a rectifier on the bike, so as long as it's functional, I won't need to acquire one of those.

So any more thoughts you can provide to keep me going in the right direction will be appreciated. I saw the note about running two coils in series, so I can follow that but may ask for a specific on the "correct how to." Also, how do I determine the output of the existing coil, and does it matter whst output to add for the second coil?

Boy it just keeps getting deeper & deeper! ; D Victor