OK I can't seem to get the search function to work what is the secret or is it just me!
But the real question is the Dirt Squirt I just bought and picked up yesterday has a uni green sock air filter clamped on the carb. I've been searching evil bay for parts for a 01 Orange tanked Squirt or a Road toad thinking that would be "better". Any feed back on if it would be "better" or just prettier with the stock airfilter?? I'm kind of thinking if it is more about looks I may just come up with some kind of side panel of something.
I figured I'd need to find at least some parts for this 1975 01 and at first blush it might be more then I first thought. No baffle/spark arrestor in the pipe. Large holes in the top of the Right side engine cover where I suspect the oil pump incoming and outgoing lines went into and out of the oil pump. I thought all dirt squirts came with tapered hubs but the hubs both front and rear are definitely not tapered so it's likely they have been changed out. Front forks are definitely not hodaka. With the extra axle clamp hole in front of the centered axle hole - reminds me of the old Kawasaki big horn adjustable forks - maybe they are old Kawasaki forks. As I get into it who knows what I will find.
Yessssss - I was thinking I might be able to find something like that - do you remember the size or even the part number. The closest hardware store to me is 35 miles one way (I live "out in the County" in Northern AZ ) and it happens to be an Ace Hardware!!!!
Also since you have obviously had her apart and I'm just working that way I was wondering what the issues might be if the PO had just pulled the oil pump and not blocked off where the pump had been. I'm thinking that if the pump was pulled it would leave a hole into the crank case and a big oil leak and that wouldn't work very well! Just not real sure what I'll be looking at - probably the PO just unhooked the lines and cable and ran it like that.
Anyway thanks - thats a good looking little engine all cleaned up!
LBM
hodakamax wrote:I can only solve one problem at a time--I found these cool plugs at our local Ace hardware. Now on to the next one!
You can install the early model clutch cover on your engine. It is a one piece cover with out the oil pump features. Two versions were available. One has the dip stick hole on the top of the cover and the other has it on the side. The covers are not very expensive.
If you are going to rebuild the engine and split the center cases you can remove the oil pump components as long as you are running pre-mix.
Thanks - Bike runs as is and by the out side looks like it's been running on pre mix for awhile.
Sounds like I can't just unbolt the pump if it is there - that it has an oil pump drive internally and might be a parts falling back into the case issue if it is just unbolted or gone??? I'm good runing it on Premix and changing out the side cover sounds like a good idea! I'm sure I'll need to go through it at some point just to be sure - no idea yet on the seals or air leaks.
I was looking it over last night with a flash light looking for the ID plate on the steering neck - no plate but I did see where someone had installed a grease zerk in the neck to keep the bearings greased. Don't see that too often.
Thanks again for the info.
LBM
dcoooke007 wrote:You can install the early model clutch cover on your engine. It is a one piece cover with out the oil pump features. Two versions were available. One has the dip stick hole on the top of the cover and the other has it on the side. The covers are not very expensive.
If you are going to rebuild the engine and split the center cases you can remove the oil pump components as long as you are running pre-mix.
Here's another shot of that engine showing a fabricated block-off plate for the oil pump. The hole plugs we were discussing were in assortment box #58134 and labeled "Nylon Hole Plug". There were several sizes so you will have to carefully measure the holes before you journey to Ace.(Lots of cool metric bolts and such there too!)
Hope this helps!
Regarding the air filter, I used a universal sock filter on my Hodaka from 1973 until I retired the engine this year, which included two off road racing seasons. Clamped directly to the carb with a hose clamp. Arguments can be made about regulated air flow, but the sock filter works fine.
Thanks - I kind of thought that might be the case but I did remember some discussion about it at some point in time. I'll run it like it is until I decide to get a stock type to paint something on!
LBM
Arizona Shorty wrote:Regarding the air filter, I used a universal sock filter on my Hodaka from 1973 until I retired the engine this year, which included two off road racing seasons. Clamped directly to the carb with a hose clamp. Arguments can be made about regulated air flow, but the sock filter works fine.
Thanks helps - now to get the expensive Harbor Freight Dial Calipers out to do some measurin!
LBM
hodakamax wrote:Here's another shot of that engine showing a fabricated block-off plate for the oil pump. The hole plugs we were discussing were in assortment box #58134 and labeled "Nylon Hole Plug". There were several sizes so you will have to carefully measure the holes before you journey to Ace.(Lots of cool metric bolts and such there too!)
Hope this helps!
OK I can't seem to get the search function to work what is the secret or is it just me!
