Kickstand woes!
Kickstand woes!
New question!
My Model 03 kickstand seems to go too far forward, even though it's hitting the stop. The reason I say is because the kickstand bottom sits unevenly on the floor when in use & the bike leans WAY OVER to the left. In fact, it goes so far forward it just about makes contact with the rear of the left foot peg.
There is a stop for it on the mount, & it goes to the stop, but it's obvious the bike should stand up more straight than it does. Any clues? The kickstand does not appear to be bent in a position which would make the bike lean. Thx! Victor
My Model 03 kickstand seems to go too far forward, even though it's hitting the stop. The reason I say is because the kickstand bottom sits unevenly on the floor when in use & the bike leans WAY OVER to the left. In fact, it goes so far forward it just about makes contact with the rear of the left foot peg.
There is a stop for it on the mount, & it goes to the stop, but it's obvious the bike should stand up more straight than it does. Any clues? The kickstand does not appear to be bent in a position which would make the bike lean. Thx! Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
Re: Kickstand woes!
OK. Here are some photos....
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
Re: Kickstand woes!
It looks to me like the kickstand stop is damaged, allowing the kickstand to pivot too far forward. I've found that Hodaka kickstands are not the most rugged design. The kickstand itself bends (it looks like yours is bent as well), the pivot hole wears, and the stops wear. In addition the pivot bolt wears out. From you pictures I would bet that all of the above apply to your kickstand, but the damaged stop is likely the contributing the most to the problem.
Brian
Brian
Re: Kickstand woes!
So is this repairable, or a live with it situation? I believe the kickstand mount is welded onto the frame. So in guessing it means finding a "donor" in reasonably good shape, cutting the old one off & welding the replacement on? ; ) Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
Re: Kickstand woes!
I just removed the kickstand and built up the worn stop area with an old arc welder. Then I used an angle grinder and shaped it a little. I even built up the worn hole in the kickstand and drilled it back to standard and installed a new bolt. Of course that was done before I had it powder coated but you can always repaint the area. Back like new again.
Bill Chapman, Monument, CO
Raced and Modified Hodakas in Statesville NC back in the day.
Raced and Modified Hodakas in Statesville NC back in the day.
Re: Kickstand woes!
I'm working on an 03 as well, and the kick stand bracket had been completely broken off and re-welded by the previous owner. I will be welding a bead to the top and bottom to add some strength and then finish it with some careful grinding.
So repair it like bchappy suggests, and you should be good to go. It's a fairly easy repair.
Tom
So repair it like bchappy suggests, and you should be good to go. It's a fairly easy repair.
Tom
Re: Kickstand woes!
Thank both of you. I just need to find a wire welder. I think a friend of mine has one. ; ). Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
- Bullfrog
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Re: Kickstand woes!
All the welding could be done with oxy-acetylene too. "Old fashioned" I know, but it'll work. The tab and frame are mild steel . . . so you won't be destroying any "temper" in the metal (though gas welding would likely "cook" more paint).
Ed
Ed
Keep the rubber side down!
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