Why is my Carburetor wet?

[RayRay]

Why is my carburetor getting wet inside?
It is on a M94 125 and yes it is the VM24A but its all I have right now....
After reading the forum I understand it is a mediocre pencil holder....

[Bullfrog]

I'm unsure what you are asking.

The inside of your carburetor should be wet with pre-mix fuel.

But then you might be asking, why is the outside of the carb wet even when I park the bike inside the garage? If that is what you are asking, most likely you have a leak at the tank petcock boss, or a petcock leak or cracked fuel line which is leaking. (<-- all of these would be "weeps" more than leaks).

Using a paper towel, dry off the outside of the carb AND the fuel line and petcock. After a few hours (or the next day) check to see if any of those items are still dry. Dry items are above the leak/weep - wet items ARE the leaker/weeper or are below the leaker/weeper.

Ed

[RayRay]

So is the intake side supposed to be wet? It started first kick but when you give the throttle a quick blip you see spray out of the intake side of the carb and the plug is almost dripping wet. It has a 30 pilot and a 150 main with DH Enterprises reeds with black petals.

[Bullfrog]

How are you seeing all this with the engine running?

Ed

[Bullfrog]

Rayray,

I've been thinking some more about your situation. I misinterpreted your most recent message, my fault. I wuz thinking about the intake manifold side of the card. . . but I'm on board now. With a reed valve, you should NOT see a fog of fuel/air mix at the carb mouth on the air cleaner side of the carb. Since you ARE seeing that, we have a strong indication that your reeds are not sealing to the reed cage.

I'd recommend that you inspect the reed cage assembly and reeds closely. When at rest, the reeds should lay flat against the reed cage and cover the complete opening under each reed.

Note that even back in the day, the black (stiff) DH reeds were not a good choice for general purpose use. Combine that with 40 years or so of aging/brittleness/warp . . . and new reeds might be needed. Finally, even when you get reeds in place which aren't too stiff, and which seal well on the reed cage AND a significantly richer pilot jet . . . . . . . you'll still be trying to tune an "A" type carb (and that isn't going to work out well).

NOTE: The leaking reeds are allowing part of the incoming air to pick up fuel three times before it goes all the way into the engine. The incoming air passes the needle jet and picks up fuel, then the leaking reeds allow some of that fuel/air mix to be pushed "backwards" (toward the air cleaner) and it picks up some more fuel . . . finally, that "twice charged" air/fuel mix gets drawn past the needle jet again picking up fuel a third time as it travels toward the engine.

Ed

[RayRay]

Thanks Ed!!
It's been a really long time since I've done this kind of work. And your assessment makes perfect sense.
Thank You so Much!!!
Do you have a suggestion for some general purpose reeds? because if nothing else like you told be about engine bearings, "They are 42 years old"
And my plan is to replace the carb VERY soon....