Combat Wombat reed conversion

[BrianZ]

I am installing the Hodaka reed conversion kit (P/N 207020) on my Combat Wombat and have a few questions:

Does the original black heat block (P/N 953501) need to be installed between the reed assembly and the carburetor?

What do I do with the carburetor/air box boot? Do I cut the stock boot or is there an alternative?

Does anyone have any suggestions for jetting using the stock carburetor? Other than the reed conversion the rest of the bike is stock and I would like an idea of what jets to start with.

Brian

[taber hodaka]

Hi Brian the one thet autbids me ea. Brian I would start with a very large main jet then adjust the idle, lower end, mid range and last the main jet. then recheck the lower end adjustments again. The desire to just open it up and take a ripping ride is not good, tune it first. Brian it sure was good to see you at HD---------------- Clarence

[BrianZ]

Thanks for the advice Clarence! I had a great time at Hodaka Days, and it was a pleasure to meet you, even with the corny Canuck jokes You and your daughter are "good people".

Does anyone have any input on the carb/air box boot and the heat block?

The reed valve kit is kind of strange. The flanged carburetor mounts to the reed block with a stud on the right side and a bolt on the left side. With the heat block installed the stud is a little bit too short, and with the heat block removed the bolt on the left side is too long.

Brian

[racerclam]

which reed assembly do you have there are two that you could have obtained from Hodaks

















which reed assembly do you have ? There are two possibilities you could use from Hodaka with the correct flange to the cylinder. is the reed cage held into the manifold with 4 allen screws or does it just slide in and held in place when the carb is fastened. . I hpe you know that the victoty port needs to be opened up to connect to the intake port also as well as the piston needs to be holed. Main jet size start with about 8 sizes bigger, pilot jet mat also need to go up , since the carb gets a weaker signal from the crank case due to the reed restriction , start with the needle raised also , you may even need a richer needle , reed engines normaly do. The air boot need to be shortened .

Rich

[Bullfrog]

You'll likely end up with about a 240 main jet. Pilot jet of about 40. Can't remember needle jet and needle.

Ed

[RichardMott]

Brian,

Here is a photo of my reed conversion for the CW. I don't know how different is it from yours. No air boot modification needed. I only had to make a dent in the exhaust. Probably didn't really need to if I had installed the exhaust first. Oh well!
As you can see, no black heat block. I started with a 280 main. After jetting tests, it gave me the proper spark plug color of brown chocolate.

Rick Mott

[BrianZ]

Thanks for posting the picture Rick. Your reed valve assy is the same as mine, except that mine came with a bolt for the left side where yours has a stud and nut. I guess I'll replace the bolt with a stud (stud in both sides) and omit the heat block.

I got lucky and picked up a cylinder at Hodaka days that had been ported for the reed valve. When I got it home I found that it is still on the original bore and within spec. I had a NOS Super Combat piston and rings sitting on my shelf that completed the top end.

I'll start with the suggested jetting specs (280 main and 40 pilot), set the needle to the richest position, and commence the standard jetting procedure (fouling plugs, spilled fuel, and cursing). At least the main jet is easy to access on the CW.

Hopefully the CW will make a good replacement for my failed (so far) Super Toad project (more about that later).

Thanks,

Brian