125 wombat flywheel

[jn1972]

I AM TRYING TO PULL THE FLYWHEEL ON MY 1972 WOMBAT 124 ,WHEN I GOT THE BIKE HALF ON THE CASE HAD WATER IN IT ,TRIED THE PULLER IT WOULD NOT BUDGE,I TRIED SOAKING IT WITH PENTRATING OIL FOR 3 DAYS STILL NO LUCK,ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM? COULD I PUT HEAT TO THE CENTER OF THE FLYWHEEL WITHOUT DAMANGING ANY WIRES? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP JERRY

[taber hodaka]

There are always many good suggestions. I use a good hodaka flywheel puller, thread it in all the way, tighten it up tight but I don,t use a impact wrench. Then I hit the end a sharp rap using a 16 ounce hammer, tighten more and repeat. Others may have a better way. ----------Clarence

[Pep]

Hi Jerry, this might be a stupid comment, but did you remove the 14mm nut first?
Gear puller = bad, be sure to use a proper Hodaka flywheel puller.
Excessive heat may damage some wires and the condenser, but if it was water-damaged, you'll be replacing that stuff anyway... Oil, and a few moderate heat cycles might help get things loosened.
Good luck!
Laurie

[dirty_rat]

I would second Clarence's suggestions. Along the same lines, you might tighten with the appropriate Hodaka puller and leave it for a few hours. Then make sure it is still tight and give it a rap with a hammer. If nothing, tighten and let sit for a few more hours, continue as above until it comes loose.

[Zyx]

Clarence's method is exactly how I have done it, with all brands having the same basic set up. Tighten and bump, repeat. And the bump is straight in on the center screw, not a bump on the screw lever to make it tighter. It is the shock that breaks it loose.

Heat could be used as a last resort, but I would go at it carefully. It does not take much heat to expand the center of the hub. If something starts to smoke, it is too hot. So if you want to heat it, but don't want to cook it, you could even set a heat lamp up close and leave it for a while. The idea is to heat the hub without excessively heating the shaft, because hub and shaft are the same material and will have similar or identical heat reactive properties. Get the flywheel warm and the hub will warm also. Then try the tighten and whack method while still warm.

Dont use a lever or extension on the puller shaft arm. Thread pressure alone will not remove the flywheel even when not rusted shut. You will just damage the threads. Hand tighten as much as you can. If arthritis is a problem, you can bump the lever with a leather mallet or some such just to get it snug, but excessive force is not a good idea.

[amanda11270]

Be careful with the end of the crankshaft and use the correct puller. When I was younger and had a Road Toad, I ruined the end of the crankshaft simply because I had no idea that such a tool as a puller even existed, and where I Iived there was almost no info on Hodaka's let alone service info. And NO internet for sure. The former Hodaka dealer near me, I think was tired of seeing me since I was only 16 and didnt like answering my questions, they catered towards selling more modern bikes in 86.

Now that I am older and much more experienced as a technician, I just bought my Wombat about 2 months back (sentimental reasons as my first bike was a Hodaka), I picked up the proper puller for around $15 on ebay, its a godsend. That end of the crank is soft if you hit it with a hammer as I did back in the day, it mushrooms easily.



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