Hodakaguy's 98 Super Rat project.

[HodakaguyTom]

Snagged a late model 98 Super Rat recently with an early Harry Taylor pipe. Runs but needs a tune up a bunch of TLC. This thread will document the progress as I go through it.










Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

Model 98 Misc.

A photo of my Super Rat when it was restored in 2008 by a previous owner.



A vintage Ad




My 98 has extra gussets on the front down tubes and a wrap on the steering head. This was a factory "Hot Tip" direct from Hodaka.






Another interesting note. On the Super Combat and 98 Super Rat the rear fenders were made in Japan, the fronts were made by Preston Petty in the USA.










Although the Super Combat and 98 Super Rat frames look almost identical there are a few differences. The Super Rat frame is a darker blue and there are differences where the rear shock attaches to the frame.




Stripping the bike down for cleaning, polishing and some well deserved maint.




Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

A bit more progress on the RAT.

With the forks removed the bars were super stiff to move, expecting rusted steering head bearings I removed the triple clamps to inspect. Luckily they weren't rusty, just super sticky nasty grease. Found quite a few bearings missing.








What do we have here. A genuine period correct mouse nest....or is that a Rat's nest lol. Luckily they didn't chew on the filter so it's still in tack.




Looks like the right petcock has been removed and filled in for exhaust clearance.




A few of the aluminum bits show corrosion, the bike was stored inside but it was up in the mountains and the moist air didn't do it any good. A stainless steel wire wheel and hand brush polished the parts back up nicely, here the upper triple clamp is getting a refresh.
















Coating with wax to keep the parts looking new.




A trip through the ultrasonic cleaner for some small parts.












Continued Below.

[HodakaguyTom]

Continued from above...

A quick pass with some OOOO Steel Wool, then a good cleaning and finally a coat of wax and the shifter is looking like new again.








Removing the exhaust. I'll be removing the silencer that someone added, not sure who installed this but they need to step away from the welding machine! I'll repair the pipe before re-installing.






I will probably build a new and more substantial heat guard.






High quality mount right there lol.




Pipe and fender removed.






Air box removed. I'll get rid of the fake carbon fiber stickers and install a new air boot.






Out with the mighty engine.














Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

Today's Rat Progress:

Didn't get a lot of time to work on the bike today but did get a bit of cleaning and polishing done. Chipping away.

Starting to clean years of crud off the frame.




Exhaust pipe clamp....cleaned up nicely.










Kick starter cleaned up nicely as well.






























Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

A decision was made......

Full restore or nice rider? Continuing the tear down of my 98 Super Rat and decided today to just clean, refresh and reassemble instead of repainting everything while it's apart. The paint is cleaning up pretty nice and I decided I will be more likely to actually use it if it looks nice but isn't perfect. I can always tear it back down and paint it later if I want it perfect . That said I am replacing quite a few bits and pieces as I go.


Starting to look like a build your own Hodaka kit. Here the frame is yet to be cleaned up and buffed out.




The Rats heart laying out on the lift....waiting to be cleaned and detailed. The carb will be disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt.




I will be removing the fake carbon fiber stickers that a previous owner applied to the air box, and replacing the rotted intake boot.






A bit of surgery to remove the silencer and the nasty goober weld from the previous owner. Step away from the welding machine! I'll repair the tail pipe before re-installing.










Removing the rear axle. It was dry and in desperate need of a good cleaning and fresh grease.




The rear springs had been painted at one time and they are needing a refresh. Eventually I'll install the correct model 98 chrome springs when I come across a pair, for now I sand blasted them and re-painted with a black paint designed for suspension components.














On to the rear wheel assembly.










Continued Below...

[HodakaguyTom]

Continued from above...

Cleaned and paint buffed out.




Time to take apart the hub and brake components for a deep clean.








Parts going in the Ultrasonic Cleaner




Gunk on a rag works great to clean grease off components.






The outboard bearing on the sprocket carrier isn't sealed and has seen better days. I'll be replacing this one with a sealed unit.








The previous owner had sanded a painted the brake backing plate and sprocket carrier. I stripped the failing paint and gave them a fresh coat. This will do until I find a correct set of Wheels/Hubs for a 98.








More to come....

Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

Shocks back together and looking good once again.

Chrome cleaned and in the vise for some light polishing/clean up.




Body cleaned up. I cleaned the shock bodies with Gunk engine cleaner and scrubbed them with a mild polish, I didn't want a chrome polished finish...just a clean looking shock.




Springs ready for installation.




And back together again, patiently waiting to be put back in service.




More to come...

Hodakaguy

[rough rider]

doing a great job and nice photos.

[HodakaguyTom]

doing a great job and nice photos.

Thanks Mate.

Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

A bit more progress today.

Replacing the bearings in the drive hub. The outboard bearing that I removed wasn't sealed and was a bit rough when spinning it. I replaced it with a sealed bearing so no more worries about dirt or water getting by the outer seal on the hub. I placed the bearings in the freezer over night and heated the hub with a heat gun, the bearings dropped right in with no tools required.














Next up...time to clean and refresh the carb/reed valve assy.






Carb kit from Hodaka-Parts. Top notch packaging.






I'll be replacing the intake manifold with a Hodaka-parts aluminum manifold.




Reed assy taken apart.




A blast with some carb cleaner removed a good portion of the exterior grime.






The bike has been sitting for a long time, it was great to see the inside of the carb this clean.






A trip through the ultrasonic cleaner.








Continued Below.....

[HodakaguyTom]

Continued from above....

New Bits going back in. Float height is set with the levers even with the gasket surfaces on the carb body.










New lever and plunger assy.









Cleaning and re-painting the reed cage. Paint stripper, a pick and a stainless brush cleaned the cage up nicely.






Before painting the cage I lapped the gasket surfaces on each side to ensure they are flat. It's common for these to warp over time due to over tightening and use. To lap the cage I used a piece of glass (Nice flat surface) from a 8x10 photo frame, a piece of 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and some WD-40.






Here I took a few passes on the sand paper working the cage in a figure 8 pattern. You can see just the outer edges are touching the sand paper showing the cage is slightly warped. Keep sanding and checking often till it's completely flat.




Flat.




Here's a quick video showing the lapping process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXtvGSFBt7c


I'll be replacing the original intake manifold with a Hodaka-Parts aluminum manifold, Quality part!




Painting the cage black once again.






Reed cage back together.




More to come..

Hodakaguy

[dirty_rat]

Once your rebuild is complete, this story would make a great article for the Resonator Revisited.

[HodakaguyTom]

Once your rebuild is complete, this story would make a great article for the Resonator Revisited.

What is the Resonator Revisited? An article?

Thanks

Tom

[HodakaguyTom]

More Progress.

Cleaning and polishing the engine.






Getting ready to install the reed cage and carb along with the new Hodaka-Parts aluminum intake manifold.




Fresh paint on the reed cage.






OEM along side the new aluminum intake manifold.




I used a thin layer of HondaBond on the gaskets to prevent potential air leaks. After installing I wiped the inside edges clean.






Reed cage back on the engine.






Reeds, Intake manifold and Carb back on the engine.






Kick starter reinstalled.




Cleaning up the frame a bi. Several areas have surface rust and won't buff out well.....My OCD is starting to kick in and I may still have to paint the frame lol.










More to come...

Hodakaguy

[dirty_rat]

The Resonator Revisited is the official publication of the Hodaka Club. It comes out 4 times a year and is full of tips and techniques, along with stories about Hodaka's.
Membership is $25 a year, at hodakaclub.org

[HodakaguyTom]

The Resonator Revisited is the official publication of the Hodaka Club. It comes out 4 times a year and is full of tips and techniques, along with stories about Hodaka's.
Membership is $25 a year, at hodakaclub.org

Very cool. I'll check it out.

Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

Let's get some parts cleaned up.

Stripping the fake carbon fiber sticker off the air box.








Media blasting some parts.














A coat of self etching primer on the lower triple clamp and high temp black on the pipe. I'll oven cure the paint on the pipe soon.




Inspecting the blasted parts.....Hmmmmm....this isn't good. The upper air box mounting bolt is cracking out. Time to fix this.






Stop drilling the cracks. (I ended up drilling several more holes after this pic was taken as I could see a few extra faint cracks).




Tig welding everything closed once again.








And blending everything smooth once again. On to paint soon.






Hodakaguy

[dirty_rat]

You do good work. Project is looking great.

[HodakaguyTom]

You do good work. Project is looking great.

Thanks mate.

Tom

[HodakaguyTom]

Curing the exhaust paint.

Used a buddies powder coat oven to cure the paint on the exhaust. 250 Deg for 30 min then remove and let cool for 30 min, then 30 min at 400 deg and let cool. I'll do the final high temp cure on the bike.












Hodakaguy

[matt glascock]

What an excellent and wonderfully well documented project. You've inspired me to dig into the two DS basket cases sleeping in my trailer! Nice work. Thank you for taking the time to share your process.