Ignition
Ignition
Hello everybody.
Something wrong happened to my Wombat 03 engine. There is no longer any spark in the spark plug. What type of test should I do to find out the problem? Can I measure voltage or resistance at the coil input? Will it be the Magneto or the condensor?
What are the procedures for removing the flywheel for inspection?
Thanks in advance
Something wrong happened to my Wombat 03 engine. There is no longer any spark in the spark plug. What type of test should I do to find out the problem? Can I measure voltage or resistance at the coil input? Will it be the Magneto or the condensor?
What are the procedures for removing the flywheel for inspection?
Thanks in advance
Last edited by S.M. on Sat Nov 18, 2023 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Ignition
So I took some resistance measurements. 1-High voltage coil output = 5,200 k ohm 2- High voltage coil input = 3.0 ohm 3- Black and blue magnet wire = 1.7 ohm Do they seem like normal values?
Re: Ignition
I've tried this technique and the spark works.
viewtopic.php?t=3655
viewtopic.php?t=3655
Re: Ignition
Here are the resistance values as stated in the Hodaka Workshop Manual.
Ignition coil primary winding (hook up ohm meter to the black and blue wire coming out of the ignition coil) 1.9 ohms +or- 10%.
Ignition coil secondary winding (hook up ohm meter to the blue wire and the spark plug lead) 4500-5700 ohms + or- 10%, so your values sound about right.
As far as removing your magneto, you need to use the proper magneto puller (call Terry at hodaka-parts.com to get one). Don't try to use a claw type as you will damage the magneto. Once removed you will be able to get a better look at your ignition system to see if everything looks okay or if something is defective, broken, come loose, etc. Let us know what you find
Ignition coil primary winding (hook up ohm meter to the black and blue wire coming out of the ignition coil) 1.9 ohms +or- 10%.
Ignition coil secondary winding (hook up ohm meter to the blue wire and the spark plug lead) 4500-5700 ohms + or- 10%, so your values sound about right.
As far as removing your magneto, you need to use the proper magneto puller (call Terry at hodaka-parts.com to get one). Don't try to use a claw type as you will damage the magneto. Once removed you will be able to get a better look at your ignition system to see if everything looks okay or if something is defective, broken, come loose, etc. Let us know what you find
Re: Ignition
Thanks you so much.dirty_rat wrote: ↑Sun Nov 19, 2023 2:48 am Here are the resistance values as stated in the Hodaka Workshop Manual.
Ignition coil primary winding (hook up ohm meter to the black and blue wire coming out of the ignition coil) 1.9 ohms +or- 10%.
Ignition coil secondary winding (hook up ohm meter to the blue wire and the spark plug lead) 4500-5700 ohms + or- 10%, so your values sound about right.
As far as removing your magneto, you need to use the proper magneto puller (call Terry at hodaka-parts.com to get one). Don't try to use a claw type as you will damage the magneto. Once removed you will be able to get a better look at your ignition system to see if everything looks okay or if something is defective, broken, come loose, etc. Let us know what you find
I'm seriously suspicious that it could be the points or the condenser.....next week I'll remove the flywheel to take a closer look. Thank you so much.
Re: Ignition
While apart, make sure all wires are connected properly and none are shorted out. Check connections between all wires to ensure they are tight and not corroded (including ground wires and connections). Make sure the small insulators on the points are not broken (after 50 years they could break down and crumble). If points are showing a lot of pitting, chances are the condenser is bad.
Also, do you have a workshop manual? if so, it gives good directions on how to check most of the ignition components and values to look for in the testing.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Also, do you have a workshop manual? if so, it gives good directions on how to check most of the ignition components and values to look for in the testing.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Re: Ignition
Condensers tend to work until they don’t. However, they can get old and then start failing intermittently as the engine heats up.
Make sure when you solder the wires to the condenser that you do not get solder spilling over to the outer cover of the condenser. Victor
Make sure when you solder the wires to the condenser that you do not get solder spilling over to the outer cover of the condenser. Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
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Re: Ignition
If with the Dale check method you are getting a very good spark the condenser is good. I can also check my points with the battery system. Clarence
Re: Ignition
Is that normal with the multimeter testing on condutivity buzz mode,having contact between the points with them open ?? The coil wires are disconnected.
Re: Ignition
I think the condenser is on shortcut!.
Soon i will try another one 0.18 micro Faraday.
Soon i will try another one 0.18 micro Faraday.
Re: Ignition
Yes, totally normal. Rotate the magneto and you will hear a change in tone when the points break.
Dale
Re: Ignition
Hi guys.
Well yesterday i decided to connect the condenser to a external 5v DC power supply.....and now it works well and it measures 0.183 micro farads of capacity!.....quiet strange isn't it?
I connected it on the Magneto....adjust the points(more or less ) and the engine runs.....
Well yesterday i decided to connect the condenser to a external 5v DC power supply.....and now it works well and it measures 0.183 micro farads of capacity!.....quiet strange isn't it?
I connected it on the Magneto....adjust the points(more or less ) and the engine runs.....
Re: Ignition
Just remember, some bad condensers can work until they heat up, then quit working properly. Once cooled down it will work again. Kind of like chasing a gremlin (not the AMC one).
Re: Ignition
Speaking of condensers I replaced one on my 94 wombat and it runs a lot better. is it me or would a new condenser make it run much smoother, it's under the tank now .....
Re: Ignition
Perhaps the work of relocating the condenser eliminated a poor connection. Of course, a shorted condenser will kill the spark so it stands to reason that a leaking condenser could weaken the spark. Fresh wires, connections and components are the way to go!
Dale
Re: Ignition
My 94 Wombat used to intermittently run grossly underpowered when the condenser was starting to go out. Wouldn't pull more the 25 mph on a Bad Rock ride, but still idled and ran smooth enough.
At next year's Bad Rock the condenser started heating up and going no-spark every few minutes. It would start and run again after cooling down. Repeat ad infinitum until I finally understood the condenser was fouled up -- and not the spark plugs.
Re: Ignition
thank you guys for helping me understand the condenser better . i will remember what dale said , fresh wires, connections and components are the way to go......albert
Re: Ignition
Albert. When I was younger, I had a Kawasaki F6 125. I was out riding one day and in a mid-air jump, the condenser died in me. I hit the ground & rolled to a stop with my clutch lever pulled in. I was about 2 miles from home and had to push the bike back to the house. Replaced the condenser & she fired right back up again! Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
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