Toad Clutch Issue

[260Remshot]

Hey all,
I've got a Road Toad clutch issue.
I can no longer get the clutch to disengage/open when I pull the handlebar lever. The lever is still under the proper tension and returns without help. The cable moves the the lever on the case up and it returns on its own as well.
The issue is that when I have her in gear, with the clutch lever depressed, the Toad won't roll.
A few years ago the engine would stall when I tried going into first gear (with the clutch lever pulled). It would happen once and then I could get going after that.

I wanted your ideas before I crack open the case.

Thanks in advance.

[Bullfrog]

Two suggestions: 1) disconnect the clutch cable from the lever down on the engine and check the free play of the lever. You should have at least 3/32 inch measured at the end of the lever. Strangely, clutch disk wear causes a reduction of freeplay - and increases the likelihood of clutch slipping (which is not the problem you've reported). 2) Drain and replace your transmission/clutch oil. Refill with a modern motorcycle transmission oil which is formulated for wet clutches. If you are currently using the half century old factory recommendation of 30wt. non-detergent motor oil - you will be amazed at the improved clutch smoothness (and the gears will be happier too).

[olddogs]

Sounds like your plates are sticking. They usually do this after sitting unused for long periods of time. The stalling when dropping into gear and not rolling free lead me here. I've had a few Hodakas that the plates would stick every time I took it out. Take the clutch pack apart and clean the fiber and metal plates with an abrasive pad. .File down any basket grooves and re=assemble wet with a modern clutch oil. Should be able to get her going without needing new parts.

[260Remshot]

Thanks Gents! I'll try that!
I did take the case off and pulled the clutch patch to look at the individual plates. They appear fine. I put it all together again and still the same issue.
ALTHOUGH, here's a new thing. While I was holding the clutch to see if she'd roll in 1st gear (she still doesn't) I decided to cycle through each gear. As I got to the higher gears the bike rolled as it should and when I let the lever out it stopped as it should.
Off to get modern oil.

[Joe Ormonde]

I had the same problem in the past. I had the Clutch Pinion Bushing weld itself to the Pinion Gear. Your Bike has a Needle Bearing. Much better. Check the needle bearing. It may be shot. Joe

[ossa95d]

Because the clutch is on the end of the crankshaft, in first gear it has to spin at a very high rpm and the drag caused by the oil is magnified. I've never seen a Hodaka that would push around easily in first gear with the clutch pulled in. in the higher gears it spins much more slowly and is able to keep up with the ground speed. Certainly a modern gear oil designed for wet clutches will help. When pushing the bike out to the driveway, I always put it in neutral.

[viclioce]

Are you a club member? If you are, go to the club website & go to the back issues of the Resonator Revisted. Look up Vol. 1, issue 4, and read the article about Clutch Blueprinting. Victor

[260Remshot]

I opened up the clutch again.
The needle rollers are all good. The only thing I found https://hodaka-parts.com/2_B.asp "wrong" was the small shim (#47) was actually installed with the outer washer (#41), so I put that in its proper place. I doubt that would cause any fuss though.

I ended up getting some synthetic ATF after draining the old stuff. I'm almost thinking that old stuff may have been the culprit. It was dirty! I had checked the oil level before opening up the case. The level was fine AND the stuff looked clean. I think it had sat so long that all the heavy stuff went to the bottom and made the top layer look clean.

Anyway, she now moves freely with clutch lever pulled and in gear.

Thanks for all of the input gents. I'm hoping to see some of you in Athena soon.