Model 03 Lighting issues…

[viclioce]

At one point I had lights. Had the original glass tube fuse holder which appeared to be good. With the switch in DC position the tail light would even come on when the bike wasn’t running.

Then the fuse holder vibrated apart. Guessing the fuse grounded against the frame under the seat. Replaced with a mini blade fuse holder and first a 5 amp fuse. Then I checked the wiring diagram. It says the 03 Wombat uses a 20 amp fuse. So, I bought some today. Now has a 20 amp mini blade fuse.

The fuse is in line where it’s supposed to be on the harness, between the positive side of the battery terminal and where it plugs into the double connector containing the red wire coming from the rectifier. Still not getting any lights. No lights, no horn, no signals.

Any ideas? I really need to get this one out of here…. Victor

[Bullfrog]

Wayeeee back in history, corroded or loose connectors were the Number One thing to look for. Probably have to add proper main switch operation by now. Second was cut/kinked wires with possibly broken conductor inside the insulation.
Ed

[viclioce]

Well I figured a couple of things out.

First, the tail light still works. But it was staying on even with the key in the off position and ran the battery down dead. I found my 6v battery tender, but it appears to have stopped working. It did not recharge the battery enough to power even the tail light. A new $12.99 6v 4.5 amp/hr battery brought the tail light back on.

The front brake lever switch was sticking a bit. But the tail light stays on regardless of the key position. Not sure, because it’s hard to read, but I’m guessing the emergency switch is in the DC position. I’ll check tomorrow.

Then I’ll have to pull the headlight and check the bucket to see if anything came unplugged headlight wise. Victor

[viclioce]

Ed. I reterminated all the wire ends with new bullet connectors, something I always do. I chose, initially, to retain the original fuse holder because it still appreared functional. But the vibration caused by kicking the bike over caused the dry plastic fuse holder to fail. So, I had to replace it, something I usually do before remounting the wire harness on the bike.

What I can’t seem to put my finger on is why the tail light stays on even with the key turned off. Is that something related to the AC/DC switch? :ugeek. Victor

[givergas]

i kinda had the same problem and found the front brake switch was messing up . it was moving around in the Front brake lever assembly because it was dried up and cracked and loose and sticking in there . i switched it out with a better one and fixed that problem . maybe something to look at ....albert

[viclioce]

I bought a brand new front brake switch because there wasn’t one on the bike. And I’ve confirmed the rear switch isn’t sticking open. Victor

[taber hodaka]

I would work between a wiring diagram and a test light. does the taillight wire go exactly where it is should. A red wire coming from the taillight can't hook into a red wire going to the switch "' battery side "'. I am not looking at a diagram. ________---- cLARENCE

[viclioce]

Well I pulled the AC/DC switch to check it today. For some reason, I thought the brown wire had been soldered on incorrectly. But it appears to be fine. Either that or all 3 wires are on the wrong side???

Can anyone tell me, if the AC position on the switch is mounted facing forward, are the wires on the AC/DC switch on the left side? Or the right side? And, is there a way to test the switch with a meter?

If the AC/DC switch is OK, it pretty much leaves the green wire in the harness not providing power to the switch, or the voltage regulator is not functioning.

Hope I get it figured out soon. It’s a real Biotch working when it’s below 32* even with the propane heater.

Any 03 Wombat folks in the group have any other ideas??? Thanks in advance! Victor

[viclioce]

Quick thought….

If I do a bypass wire, skipping the voltage regulator, will that send power to the lights, as a way of testing the voltage regulator for functionality??? Not sure if there is a way to test one with a multi-meter. If there is a way, please let me know how to test it with a multi-meter. Thx! Victor

[givergas]

wiring one of my many weak spots but i ended up taking the harness off and starting over 3 or 4 times and did find where i mixed up some wire terminals other than that dont know ...albert

[dirty_rat]

The ac/dc switch is just a two way switch. One way it completes a circuit from the middle terminal to one of the side terminals, throw the switch and it completes a circuit from the middle to the other side terminal. Easy to check it with a multi-meter.
I'm not positive, but I believe that in the DC mode (emergency mode) the tail light should work just off battery and with the key off.

[taber hodaka]

Victor I have a extra 6/12 volt tester if you want it. ------------ Clarence

[viclioce]

I have 3 of them, but thanks!

Turns out that someone soldered the wires on the wrong side of the switch. Replacing the AC/DC switch with a known hood brought power to the lights.

Also, I figured out I accidentally plugged the front brake light switch into the horn power wire, so I corrected that. Had to pull the after market light switch I fabricated to use, and used one from another bike. Ordered a replacement.

Things are moving along. I hope to be finished tomorrow. Victor

[taber hodaka]

Sounds logical when you have to hit the horn you probably need the brake light on anyways. ------- Clarence

[viclioce]

Drove the bike to Amarillo today. Left Santa Fe at 8:15 am. Arrived in Amarillo at 1:15 local time. Arrived back in Santa Fe at 6:30 pm local MST. Long day! But she’s gone to her new home. Victor