Road Toad Ignition Parts?

[c3rea1ki113r]

Hello everyone.
I have been working on my Road Toad trying to get it back on the road and trails.
I took the carburetor apart and cleaned and reassembled.
I still get power with every kick so I don't think it is the Magneto or points (...but please advise if I am wrong.)
So I took the tank off and now I think I need a new ignition coil? The part is listed in the Microfiche as item: D#17
I could not find it listed in the parts catalog.
I will take a used one or anything to get the Toad back on the road.
Please help!
Thanks everyone!

-Dan

[hodakaguy]

Go to eBay. Hint: You can use almost any hodaka coil except the 90 cc. They will all work it will just be a matter of mounting.
But, you should not have much of a problem finding a Road Toad coil as RT parts are very plentiful (for now).

Here is one:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Hodaka-Roa ... 4b&vxp=mtr

[Dale]

Hello everyone.
I have been working on my Road Toad trying to get it back on the road and trails.
I took the carburetor apart and cleaned and reassembled.
I still get power with every kick so I don't think it is the Magneto or points (...but please advise if I am wrong.)
So I took the tank off and now I think I need a new ignition coil? The part is listed in the Microfiche as item: D#17
I could not find it listed in the parts catalog.
I will take a used one or anything to get the Toad back on the road.
Please help!
Thanks everyone!

-Dan

Dan, I am confused by what you mean when you say you "get power with every kick"? Are you saying that you can see AC voltage generated by the magneto when you kick it over, but that you still have no spark? Have you disconnected the kill switch and the key switch to make sure that they are not grounding out your ignition lead? Also, have you done any resistance tests on your coil? While this test is not 100%, it will determine if the coil is open or shorted. The manuals cover this test. It could also be your spark plug wire or cap...
Dale

[c3rea1ki113r]

Yes I can see power in the indicator lights and headlight when I kick over. The kill switch is broken so I disconnected the wires from the harness. Still no spark.
Thanks for the link. I think I will get that coil.
Thanks for the replies.
Dan

[rlkarren]

disconnect the 4 way connector under the seat and make sure both black wires are not grounding anywhere. Make sure all the contacts on the coils are clean and free of debris and rust. Make sure the coils ends are also clean and free of rust. Make sure the flywheel magnets are clean and free of debris and rust. Check your clearances; .010" between coils and flywheel, .012' - .015" timing, .024" spark plug. (assuming these are the same as a Wombat, but check your manual). perform resistance tests on the ignition coils.

check for spark.

If you are still not getting spark, then replace the coil.

It is prudent to perform all these tests on ignition systems because it is easy to throw money at the problem until it goes away. Performing tests and making sure everything is clean and within correct tolerances is your best way to prevent spending a lot of money needlessly.

Roger

[Zyx]

Seeing the panel lights flicker when kicking suggests that your lighting coil is operative, and that you apparently don't have a functioning battery. The lighting side does not interact with the ignition and the battery does not matter at the moment. The suggested steps above are all correct process for diagnosis of the problem, but I don't see anyone suggesting a bench test of the coil. Have you actually checked the coil? It could be something simple, like the spark plug lead is DOA and needs to be replaced, either at the plug end or the coil end. Coils can fail at the plug wire junction with the windings, and can still be repaired, and the sparky end can also fail. There is a tech article on the website on how to repair the coil if the winding end is broken. It requires cutting into the coil with a Dremel, but if the coil doesn't work as it is, cutting it hurts nothing and may lead to a repair.

The test for coil function is a resistance check of the primary and secondary windings. The primary side is the input side coming from the magneto. The secondary is the spark plug lead side. Test both the input wire (usually black) against the coil ground at the coil core, as well as the spark lead against the same ground. The primary side is usually low resistance. I don't have the specs for the RT but would expect something in the range of one to two ohms. The output side should be way higher than that, like 4,000 to 6,000 ohms. If your resistances are in a range of something like that, it probably is not the coil, and replacing it won't help. If you have infinite resistance on either winding, there is a broken wire, either leading to, leading away from, or inside the coil. It could even be a corroded plug-in on the harness, so check the connections to make sure they are clean and functioning, and verify that the wires are not broken internally. A wire can break inside by being stretched or pulled on, and it won't show on the outside. Check from plug to end of wire for zero resistance or nearly so. High resistance or infinite resistance is a broken wire. Find the break and solder it.

You also might want to check the condenser. Look for around 0.25 Mf capacitance with the condenser removed from the circuit. You don't have to take it out, but you do need to electrically isolate it. A grounded condenser can kill the ignition and give you the same results you now have, and changing the coil would not change the result if the condenser is grounded out. If you can't get the flywheel off, or if you want to give it a quick check without the hassle of taking off the flywheel, rotate the flywheel until you see the points, and put a piece of paper between the contacts, unplug the magneto harness from the coil, then check the condenser for capacitance, as well as checking the condenser can to ground. That is, the metal outside of the condenser should be grounded, but the contact on the soldered end should not be.

Sooner or later you will find something that is not right -- obviously. But each component of the system can be checked for function, so that you can isolate the problem. Swapping out parts without diagnosis of the problem is a hit or miss thing, and function testing only requires a multi-tester which you should have anyway. I would hate to buy a coil only to find out that it was something else.

[taber hodaka]

probably points. You can check your coil with a small cheap 6 volt battery charger you don't need to be a volt vome Charlie. Every time I get close to all those fancy infinite testers they are fried. Clarence

[Zyx]

Clarence, there are two test parameters for the coil. One checks for resistance in the primary and secondary windings. The other is an isolation test, in which you blank off the points with a strip of paper and supply momentary voltage to the condenser wire lead. Every time you remove the voltage lead it should raise a spark. Usually done by striking or scratching the lead over the wire as if you were trying to start an arc on an old arc welder. The first test is to see if the coil winding resistance is within spec, the other is a pure function test, which will tell you if it is working, but not necessarily tell you exactly how well it is working. If you don't have a spark, and test the coil in isolation and it sparks, the fault is in the points or in the lead going from condenser to points. If you don't have a spark and the coil windings are within spec, the problem could be in the transfer coil, the points, the condenser, or the wires anywhere before or after the coil. Both tests have diagnostic value.