Rear shock replacement
Rear shock replacement
Since it looks like the rear shock springs were chrome plated to the same standard as the Ace 100 gas tank, i.e. without benefit of a barrier copper coat, and the pinhole rust spots were gaining ground, I took the shocks apart and soaked the springs in an oxalic acid solution. A lick with some Scotchbrite, and they looked pretty good from a distance. So a coat of Sharkhide to forstall a repeat rusting, and I started to re assemble the shocks.
OOp's, one of them, when exercised without the spring, was very rough in it's excursion. Rolling the shock on a flat surface revealed a bent shaft.
Figuring that there have been many bent shocks in the past, and someone must have come up with a readily obtainable replacement, I entered 'rear shock replacement' in the search bar. I was told that 'rear shock' was being ignored, as it was 'too common', and only 'replacement' was used in the search.
So does anyone know of a replacement shock that is readily available? I'm not trying to make a 99 point restoration, just build a usable bike for my daughter.
Thanks for any suggestions, Jerry Roy
OOp's, one of them, when exercised without the spring, was very rough in it's excursion. Rolling the shock on a flat surface revealed a bent shaft.
Figuring that there have been many bent shocks in the past, and someone must have come up with a readily obtainable replacement, I entered 'rear shock replacement' in the search bar. I was told that 'rear shock' was being ignored, as it was 'too common', and only 'replacement' was used in the search.
So does anyone know of a replacement shock that is readily available? I'm not trying to make a 99 point restoration, just build a usable bike for my daughter.
Thanks for any suggestions, Jerry Roy
Re: Rear shock replacement
I replaced mine with a pair of cheapies from eBay. Just measure the eye to eye length BUT be careful of the spring diameter as Hodaka Ace springs are a small diameter and replacements can bind on the chain guard and muffler. I used a spacer to move one away from the chain guard and a knee to bend the exhaust out slightly.
Bert
1968 Ace 100
94 & 94A Wombat
1968 Ace 100
94 & 94A Wombat
Re: Rear shock replacement
Given that the shock will otherwise go to the bin of history, you could try bending it back. Probably the seal will be damaged, but you could get lucky. Typically, the bend will be at 90 degrees to the eye hole so some creative C clamping on a bench top might do it. Bend it back at full extension; usually that's where it was when the bike hits the ground, unless there is a visible bend in the exposed rod.
Summerland, B.C.
Re: Rear shock replacement
Thanks guys,
I will try to straighten it out, but it feels as though the oil is gone. I've got a 20 ton press and some V blocks that we used to straighten a rifle barrel.
If I can get it straight, I may try to rig a vacuum chamber full of oil just to see if it is possible to re inject some oil back into the shock.
Ain't science fun?
JR
I will try to straighten it out, but it feels as though the oil is gone. I've got a 20 ton press and some V blocks that we used to straighten a rifle barrel.
If I can get it straight, I may try to rig a vacuum chamber full of oil just to see if it is possible to re inject some oil back into the shock.
Ain't science fun?
JR
Re: Rear shock replacement
Terry Larson at Hodaka-Parts offers a repop of identical shocks. The price has come down too! The shocks for the Aces, except the 90, are $149.00. Here’s a link! Victor
http://hodaka-parts.com/item.asp?PID=1786
http://hodaka-parts.com/item.asp?PID=1786
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
Re: Rear shock replacement
Those are the later style adjustable shocks that started on the 100B. If your bike has the covered fork tubes and a 17" wheel they don't fit. Original ones that work should be easy enough to find.
I'd use big C clamps over a 20 ton unless I had really fine control and some practice. It's a bit like using a sledge on a finishing nail.
I'd use big C clamps over a 20 ton unless I had really fine control and some practice. It's a bit like using a sledge on a finishing nail.
Summerland, B.C.
Re: Rear shock replacement
Those look like NOS Red Wing shocks from the '70s. If so, they look like stock Hodaka shocks but work better.viclioce wrote: ↑Fri Jul 16, 2021 6:52 am Terry Larson at Hodaka-Parts offers a repop of identical shocks. The price has come down too! The shocks for the Aces, except the 90, are $149.00. Here’s a link! Victor
http://hodaka-parts.com/item.asp?PID=1786
Early Hodaka shocks had no compression damping -- but not across all models. Maybe somebody knows more specifics on that.
Re: Rear shock replacement
I haven’t tried them yet. I was just indicating they are available. Victor
1978 175SL
1976 03 Wombat
1975 99 Road Toad (2)
1973 96 Dirt Squirt (2)
1973 “Wombat Combat”
1973 Combat Wombat
1972 94 Wombat (2)
1972 Super Squirt
1971 92B+ Ace
1970 92B Ace 100B (2)
1968 92 Ace 100
1966 Ace 90
; D Victor
Re: Rear shock replacement
That was easy!
Ten minutes on the press and the shaft is straight, the shock has oil and acts right when held in the right position, (Shaft down), and all's right with the world.
Thanks for the input, guys.
JR
Ten minutes on the press and the shaft is straight, the shock has oil and acts right when held in the right position, (Shaft down), and all's right with the world.
Thanks for the input, guys.
JR
Re: Rear shock replacement
That was easy!
Ten minutes on the press and the shaft is straight, the shock has oil and acts right when held in the right position, (Shaft down), and all's right with the world.
Thanks for the input, guys.
JR
Ten minutes on the press and the shaft is straight, the shock has oil and acts right when held in the right position, (Shaft down), and all's right with the world.
Thanks for the input, guys.
JR
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Re: Rear shock replacement
I love it when a plan comes together.
-John "Hannibal" Smith
-John "Hannibal" Smith
Re: Rear shock replacement
Just for information purposes, there was an article in Dirt Bike magazine in the 1970's on how to replace the oil in non-rebuildable shocks. It was pretty easy and might be an option for those that want to use their old shocks. I think it was written by Super Hunky.
Basically, you weld a small nut to the bottom of the shock. Then drill a hole into the shock body (through the nut you welded on, without damaging the threads. Drain the old oil and measure how much came out. Using a syringe, refill the shock with new fluid (pump the shock while you are doing this to make sure they fill properly). Once full (don't overfill as they need some airspace inside to work properly) put a short bolt (no longer than the nut you welded on) into the nut you welded on. Good idea to put some type of sealer on the bolt to keep it from leaking.
Basically, you weld a small nut to the bottom of the shock. Then drill a hole into the shock body (through the nut you welded on, without damaging the threads. Drain the old oil and measure how much came out. Using a syringe, refill the shock with new fluid (pump the shock while you are doing this to make sure they fill properly). Once full (don't overfill as they need some airspace inside to work properly) put a short bolt (no longer than the nut you welded on) into the nut you welded on. Good idea to put some type of sealer on the bolt to keep it from leaking.
Re: Rear shock replacement
Veddy intahrestinc,
One problem I can see is that there may be some interference between the spring and the head of the plug bolt when the shock is assembled. Remember, on the Ace 100 Model 92, the shock body resides entirely inside the spring, with about three sixteens of an inch clearance between the spring and shock body.
Also, there is the problem of the welding heat causing the seal, which is on the bottom, some harm.
Fortunately, when mine was straightened, alles war in ordnung.
But that is an interesting work around.
JR
One problem I can see is that there may be some interference between the spring and the head of the plug bolt when the shock is assembled. Remember, on the Ace 100 Model 92, the shock body resides entirely inside the spring, with about three sixteens of an inch clearance between the spring and shock body.
Also, there is the problem of the welding heat causing the seal, which is on the bottom, some harm.
Fortunately, when mine was straightened, alles war in ordnung.
But that is an interesting work around.
JR
Re: Rear shock replacement
Veddy intahrestinc,
One problem I can see is that there may be some interference between the spring and the head of the plug bolt when the shock is assembled. Remember, on the Ace 100 Model 92, the shock body resides entirely inside the spring, with about three sixteens of an inch clearance between the spring and shock body.
Also, there is the problem of the welding heat causing the seal, which is on the bottom, some harm.
Fortunately, when mine was straightened, alles war in ordnung.
But that is an interesting work around.
JR
One problem I can see is that there may be some interference between the spring and the head of the plug bolt when the shock is assembled. Remember, on the Ace 100 Model 92, the shock body resides entirely inside the spring, with about three sixteens of an inch clearance between the spring and shock body.
Also, there is the problem of the welding heat causing the seal, which is on the bottom, some harm.
Fortunately, when mine was straightened, alles war in ordnung.
But that is an interesting work around.
JR
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